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  1. #1
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    Rear Wheel Replacement Help

    OK, so I've read the rules for newbies and I'm going to try not to contravene any of them. Whilst I am a hugely keen bike rider, it has become abundantly clear to me in the last month or so that I don't have the first clue about bike repair or maintenance. Apologies if I break any of the rules here.

    Here goes:

    I buckled both my wheels in an accident a fortnight or so before Christmas. Being a student, I don't have much spare cash and I could only afford 1 replacement wheel. I bought the front one, and asked my Dad for a 7-speed rear wheel as my Christmas present. My previous rear wheel was of the 'traditional freewheel' variety, and of course the replacement I've been given is a freehub and casette dealio.

    Basically my question is, if I pick up the necessary casette to go on my freehub, will this new wheel be compatible with my bike?

    Please be gentle!

  2. #2
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    Without going into too much detail, there could be (most likely will be) a difference with the frame spacing. See Sheldon Brown's site: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html . It is possible that you could go from 126 mm to 130 mm just by "jamming" the wheel into the frame.

  3. #3
    I have senior moments... bikinfool's Avatar
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    You'll also need a spacer for a 7 speed cassette on a 8/9 speed freehub, so while you're over at Sheldon's page peruse this one http://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html.

    The rest of the bike is okay but both wheels got trashed? Is there a good story? Hopefully with a happy ending...

    A hint for posting, providing as much information as possible is a good thing (like what kind of bike, names/models of components, that sort of thing). Mindreading is hard.
    suum quique
    Mountain bikes: Santa Cruz Hecklers (99, 02, 07), Santa Cruz Nomad, Moots YBB, Trek OCLV Pro Issue, American Breezer
    Road bikes: TST, Trek 2300 (Carbon/Alum)

  4. #4
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by norris View Post
    OK, so I've read the rules for newbies and I'm going to try not to contravene any of them. Whilst I am a hugely keen bike rider, it has become abundantly clear to me in the last month or so that I don't have the first clue about bike repair or maintenance. Apologies if I break any of the rules here.

    Here goes:

    I buckled both my wheels in an accident a fortnight or so before Christmas. Being a student, I don't have much spare cash and I could only afford 1 replacement wheel. I bought the front one, and asked my Dad for a 7-speed rear wheel as my Christmas present. My previous rear wheel was of the 'traditional freewheel' variety, and of course the replacement I've been given is a freehub and casette dealio.

    Basically my question is, if I pick up the necessary casette to go on my freehub, will this new wheel be compatible with my bike?

    Please be gentle!
    You need a 4.5mm spacer (they make those specifically for your application, a 7 sp cassette on a 8/9/10 freehub. So yes your new rear wheel will work. If your chain is at all any worn, you may encounter skipping with a new cassette in which case you will need a new chain as well.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  5. #5
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Can you return the gift wheel and use the cash for the "correct" replacement?
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF View Post
    Can you return the gift wheel and use the cash for the "correct" replacement?
    +1
    That would be the cost effective choice.

  7. #7
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    Especially if you have an aluminum frame, because you can't spread those to accept a wider hub.

  8. #8
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    Also look on Sheldon site for alternate routing of gearshift cabel to make 7 sp cog spacing work with 6 sp shifter. Then when you have more money you could buy 7sp shifters. Keep the 7 sp freehub wheel because the hub is much less susceptible to axle breakage.

  9. #9
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    You can find many articles related to this situation here:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/gearing/index.html

    Personally I'd stockpile the 7-speed parts. They are getting scarce.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cateye View Post
    Only panthers007 is stupid enough to believe that this is a good idea.

  10. #10
    Senior Member bigvegan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF View Post
    Can you return the gift wheel and use the cash for the "correct" replacement?
    + 1 Billion. Preferably bringing the bike with you and leaving it with them until it's repaired.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garage sale GT View Post
    Especially if you have an aluminum frame, because you can't spread those to accept a wider hub.
    You can, just not permanently "cold set" aluminum frames.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  12. #12
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    Is the new one for a seven speed cassette or for an eight? A seven will have the same rear spacing as your freewheel hub.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew01 View Post
    You can, just not permanently "cold set" aluminum frames.
    Very true. I wouldn't try to put a 135mm hub in a 126mm aluminum frame but 126 in a 130 has never given me any problems (Cannondale road frames from the late 80's in both cases).

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidad View Post
    Is the new one for a seven speed cassette or for an eight? A seven will have the same rear spacing as your freewheel hub.
    Not necessarily. I've worked on a few MTBs from the '90s with 7 speed cassettes and 135mm rear spacing.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    Very true. I wouldn't try to put a 135mm hub in a 126mm aluminum frame but 126 in a 130 has never given me any problems (Cannondale road frames from the late 80's in both cases).
    I have not tried with an aluminum frame but respaced a steel Schwinn from 126 to 130. The hub would not stay put until I bent the dropouts inward to bear squarely on the ends of the hub, unless I used too much skewer tension, which is a recipe for ruined cones.

    I am glad it worked for some people but since I follow conventional advice about how tight to run the skewer, I would say it's not me but the bike. Some bikes will be like that.
    Last edited by garage sale GT; 01-05-10 at 10:38 AM.

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