Frame re-finishing
#1
Jet Jockey
Thread Starter
Frame re-finishing
I have a Nashbar "X" Cyclocross frame that I'm going to pretty up a bit. Worth it? Probably not, but it will be cool anyway. Here's my plan:
Strip the paint.
Mold Bondo over the weld beads to give the bike a smooth, fillet brazed, appearance.
Re-paint.
Now, here's where your advice comes in:
1) What paint thinners are best with Aluminum? I suppose I could sand the paint off as well, but chemically stripping would, I think, be more thorough.
2) I'm pretty sure that Bondo is the best option for this. Any other suggestions?
3) A couple of "budget" local auto-painters said they could paint the frame for me. (Think a "Midas" type place.) I've never been to one. Is it any better than just getting Duplicolor rattlecans and painting myself?
Thanks for the input.
Strip the paint.
Mold Bondo over the weld beads to give the bike a smooth, fillet brazed, appearance.
Re-paint.
Now, here's where your advice comes in:
1) What paint thinners are best with Aluminum? I suppose I could sand the paint off as well, but chemically stripping would, I think, be more thorough.
2) I'm pretty sure that Bondo is the best option for this. Any other suggestions?
3) A couple of "budget" local auto-painters said they could paint the frame for me. (Think a "Midas" type place.) I've never been to one. Is it any better than just getting Duplicolor rattlecans and painting myself?
Thanks for the input.
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#2
Jet Jockey
Thread Starter
Been doing some online research...there are LOTS of Bondo type fillers/putties. I sent an e-mail to 3M, but experienced advice on what will work best with Aluminum is very much appreciated.
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#3
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Rattlecan is the least durable. A real paint place will use real paint with hardeners. You could also look into powder coating, especially by a motorcycle place that's used to doing frames.
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#4
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#5
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Try this as a filler https://www.sjdiscounttools.com/fib416.html .Because of the high heat involved with powder coating most fillers will melt or burn off. This is also why rust runs rampant under Powder coat. Ever see a spare tire rack with the plastic coating peeling off?
#6
Jet Jockey
Thread Starter
Not going to do powder. The last time I tried to powder a frame locally, the guy put the powder on so thick that I couldn't even clamp the FD to the frame anymore. AND, he wouldn't give me my money back or strip the frame again for me.
I'll try the local auto painters. I'm sure doing a single, solid color on a frame won't be a problem for them at all.
However...further words on Bondo-like fillers are appreciated.
By the way, I read somewhere that the rattle-can Duplicolor rim paints/enamels for cars are MUCH more durable than the body paints. The rim enamels only come in black, gunmetal, and white...but I was going to do black or gunmetal anyway. Does anyone have any experience with these?
I'll try the local auto painters. I'm sure doing a single, solid color on a frame won't be a problem for them at all.
However...further words on Bondo-like fillers are appreciated.
By the way, I read somewhere that the rattle-can Duplicolor rim paints/enamels for cars are MUCH more durable than the body paints. The rim enamels only come in black, gunmetal, and white...but I was going to do black or gunmetal anyway. Does anyone have any experience with these?
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#7
Jet Jockey
Thread Starter
Try this as a filler https://www.sjdiscounttools.com/fib416.html .Because of the high heat involved with powder coating most fillers will melt or burn off. This is also why rust runs rampant under Powder coat. Ever see a spare tire rack with the plastic coating peeling off?
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#8
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when you pick a filler make sure it says it's for aluminium. You just need a glaze type filler for the welds... Also give the painter some time to do it and most have leftover color from when they overmixed. Pick a color from there.