Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
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Yes, you do have to crush the cable to achieve a secure hold. It's the distortion (crush) that ensures that it doesn't slip when apply the brakes. Also note that the cable is most likely to slip when under the greatest tension, such as when applying emergency braking force to avoid a collision, obviously when you least want a failure of any kind.
Normally brake cables are clamped only once on installation, with future adjustments via the barrel adjusters, so the distortion won't matter. Try setting the cable as follows.
1- bring the adjusters all the way in so you'll have their full range available for future adjustments.
2- holding the brakes closed, tension the cable and clamp it firmly.
3- squeeze the lever a few times to seat the cable heads and housing.
4- hopefully that gave you some slack and the brake is set fairly decently so only a turn or two of the adjuster is needed.
5- if the brake won't open enough, loosen the clamp slightly and gently squeeze the lever to slide come cable through then re-tighten. This is a feel thing and gets easier with practice.
6- if the brake is too open, needing more than a turn or two of the adjuster, loosen the clamp and start again, but you can skip steps 3 & 4.
7- tighten the clamp nut to final tension. Don't overtighten and break the screw.
8- BTW, never cut the wire until everything is finished and you're happy with the job. Then cut leaving about 1.5-2" excess beyond the clamp, and slip on a crimp if you like.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance
Last edited by FBinNY; 01-16-10 at 12:28 PM.