chain cutting question
#1
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chain cutting question
i bought a new chain for my winter bike build, this is my first every DIY chain swap...
I am reading the directions and here is one of the bullet points:
"If it is necessary to adjust the length of the chain due to a change in the number of sprocket teeth, make the cut at some other place than the place where the chain has been joined using a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin. The chain will be damaged if it is cut at a place where it has been joined with a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin."
There is a diagram next to it showing what appears to be 3 different pin types on a chain, an end pin, a reinforced connecting pin (which i have in a seperate baggy), and the link pin.
Problem is, looking at my chain, all of the pins appear to be exactly the same. No variation whatsoever.
So my question is, which pin/link do I remove to shorten my chain without damaging it?
This is a shimano chain, HG40 for 6/7/8 speed bikes.
I am reading the directions and here is one of the bullet points:
"If it is necessary to adjust the length of the chain due to a change in the number of sprocket teeth, make the cut at some other place than the place where the chain has been joined using a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin. The chain will be damaged if it is cut at a place where it has been joined with a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin."
There is a diagram next to it showing what appears to be 3 different pin types on a chain, an end pin, a reinforced connecting pin (which i have in a seperate baggy), and the link pin.
Problem is, looking at my chain, all of the pins appear to be exactly the same. No variation whatsoever.
So my question is, which pin/link do I remove to shorten my chain without damaging it?
This is a shimano chain, HG40 for 6/7/8 speed bikes.
#2
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Well it's a brand new chain so it has never been joined yet. The pins at this point are ALL factory removable pins. So you can go ahead and size it and cut it wherever it needs to be cut.
The warnings are for after you first join it using the supplied pin. They are saying not to cut it at that or subsequent joining pin locations. As for the three different types in the instructions I'm going to guess that the same paper is used for a variety of models of chain and the one paper is put in all the packages.
The warnings are for after you first join it using the supplied pin. They are saying not to cut it at that or subsequent joining pin locations. As for the three different types in the instructions I'm going to guess that the same paper is used for a variety of models of chain and the one paper is put in all the packages.
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Use the end of the chain that doesn't have the starter pin already set, and pick an appropriate pin to push out (i.e. one that will give you a link you can match to the other end). If the Hg40 didn't come with that pre-installed starter pin, and just the one in the bag, no worries at all.
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Using the instructions are indeed good, so if you need a link https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830686193.pdf
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To all - I suggest the following before pulling a link off a chain: Look VERY carefully at the chain. Note that the end of the chain should be the INNER-LINK - which is to say the thinner link that connects to the OUTER-LINK that has the further-spaced side-plates holding the pin at each end. A LINK is composed of these two OUTER-PLATES holding a pin at the open end. And the INNER-LINK that is held on one end by the pin on the OUTER-LINK by one pin. The other end of the INNER-LINK is open and ready to accept a pin from the other end - if it were long enough to reach, and it's not unless you pulled more than ONE-LINK.
So ONE-LINK of a chain bends in the middle. You can make it like the letter 'L.' With the OUTER-PLATES and a pin on one end. And the INNER-LINK with a hole to accept a pin on the other end.
If you can make the letter 'U' from the link - it's ONE and ONE-HALF a LINK. So forth. Take your time to understand how this works - and looks.
So ONE-LINK of a chain bends in the middle. You can make it like the letter 'L.' With the OUTER-PLATES and a pin on one end. And the INNER-LINK with a hole to accept a pin on the other end.
If you can make the letter 'U' from the link - it's ONE and ONE-HALF a LINK. So forth. Take your time to understand how this works - and looks.