Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

chain cutting question

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

chain cutting question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-16-10, 02:23 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
CNY James's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 809

Bikes: 2010 Felt F5, 2010 Dawes SST-AL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
chain cutting question

i bought a new chain for my winter bike build, this is my first every DIY chain swap...

I am reading the directions and here is one of the bullet points:

"If it is necessary to adjust the length of the chain due to a change in the number of sprocket teeth, make the cut at some other place than the place where the chain has been joined using a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin. The chain will be damaged if it is cut at a place where it has been joined with a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin."

There is a diagram next to it showing what appears to be 3 different pin types on a chain, an end pin, a reinforced connecting pin (which i have in a seperate baggy), and the link pin.

Problem is, looking at my chain, all of the pins appear to be exactly the same. No variation whatsoever.

So my question is, which pin/link do I remove to shorten my chain without damaging it?

This is a shimano chain, HG40 for 6/7/8 speed bikes.
CNY James is offline  
Old 01-16-10, 02:28 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
BCRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,556

Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times in 35 Posts
Well it's a brand new chain so it has never been joined yet. The pins at this point are ALL factory removable pins. So you can go ahead and size it and cut it wherever it needs to be cut.

The warnings are for after you first join it using the supplied pin. They are saying not to cut it at that or subsequent joining pin locations. As for the three different types in the instructions I'm going to guess that the same paper is used for a variety of models of chain and the one paper is put in all the packages.
BCRider is offline  
Old 01-16-10, 02:30 PM
  #3  
I have senior moments...
 
bikinfool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Woodside, CA
Posts: 2,151

Bikes: Many

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Use the end of the chain that doesn't have the starter pin already set, and pick an appropriate pin to push out (i.e. one that will give you a link you can match to the other end). If the Hg40 didn't come with that pre-installed starter pin, and just the one in the bag, no worries at all.
bikinfool is offline  
Old 01-16-10, 02:38 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
CNY James's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 809

Bikes: 2010 Felt F5, 2010 Dawes SST-AL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cool, thanks for your tip! back at it!
CNY James is offline  
Old 01-16-10, 08:04 PM
  #5  
cab horn
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353

Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 26 Times in 19 Posts
Originally Posted by CNY James
cool, thanks for your tip! back at it!
I would suggest fully reading the shimano techdoc that came with the chain. It explains all the pertinent information.
operator is offline  
Old 01-16-10, 08:21 PM
  #6  
I have senior moments...
 
bikinfool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Woodside, CA
Posts: 2,151

Bikes: Many

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Using the instructions are indeed good, so if you need a link https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830686193.pdf
bikinfool is offline  
Old 01-17-10, 12:30 AM
  #7  
Great State of Varmint
 
Panthers007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dante's Third Ring
Posts: 7,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times in 15 Posts
To all - I suggest the following before pulling a link off a chain: Look VERY carefully at the chain. Note that the end of the chain should be the INNER-LINK - which is to say the thinner link that connects to the OUTER-LINK that has the further-spaced side-plates holding the pin at each end. A LINK is composed of these two OUTER-PLATES holding a pin at the open end. And the INNER-LINK that is held on one end by the pin on the OUTER-LINK by one pin. The other end of the INNER-LINK is open and ready to accept a pin from the other end - if it were long enough to reach, and it's not unless you pulled more than ONE-LINK.

So ONE-LINK of a chain bends in the middle. You can make it like the letter 'L.' With the OUTER-PLATES and a pin on one end. And the INNER-LINK with a hole to accept a pin on the other end.

If you can make the letter 'U' from the link - it's ONE and ONE-HALF a LINK. So forth. Take your time to understand how this works - and looks.
Panthers007 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tea_kettle
Bicycle Mechanics
5
04-15-16 09:26 PM
Barnabas
Bicycle Mechanics
13
02-15-12 09:37 PM
AusTai
Road Cycling
8
09-26-11 06:12 PM
stancho
Bicycle Mechanics
11
12-28-10 02:30 PM
hjbiker43
Bicycle Mechanics
1
12-15-09 04:54 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.