Triple to Double
01-26-10, 11:15 AM
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Triple to Double
The conversion continues....
Same bike:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...2002-Trek-4300
Going to make this thing a crossover of sorts with drop bars and road components. Want to use a double in lieu of triple.
Issue: Current BB is 73mm x 116mm Square Taper. Has a POS triple on it.
Want to use Shimano 105 or Ultegra double - Hollowtech II. Inability to mix match the entire drive train has pushed me to a road drive train which is a personal preference anyway. This way if it doesn't work out the way I'm hoping or feel right ride wise, I can go and get a road frame and a new set of wheels and I'm off.
Not a newbie from the mechanics of it, but the last time I had drive train issues Suntour Superbe Pro was the stuff to buy, mountain bikes were rare and carbon fiber was exotic. Whole lot of changes since then and I'm a bit lost between suspension forks and outboard bearings on a crankset. Sure, I swapped out stuff on my now gone Allez, but that was easy.
I assume I should just buy the double with english BB cups and I'm off, but then I look at MTB BBs and they have spacers and a whole bunch of other nonsense.
Whatever happened to simplicity**********
Okay, so maybe that makes me a newbie again!
Same bike:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...2002-Trek-4300
Going to make this thing a crossover of sorts with drop bars and road components. Want to use a double in lieu of triple.
Issue: Current BB is 73mm x 116mm Square Taper. Has a POS triple on it.
Want to use Shimano 105 or Ultegra double - Hollowtech II. Inability to mix match the entire drive train has pushed me to a road drive train which is a personal preference anyway. This way if it doesn't work out the way I'm hoping or feel right ride wise, I can go and get a road frame and a new set of wheels and I'm off.
Not a newbie from the mechanics of it, but the last time I had drive train issues Suntour Superbe Pro was the stuff to buy, mountain bikes were rare and carbon fiber was exotic. Whole lot of changes since then and I'm a bit lost between suspension forks and outboard bearings on a crankset. Sure, I swapped out stuff on my now gone Allez, but that was easy.
I assume I should just buy the double with english BB cups and I'm off, but then I look at MTB BBs and they have spacers and a whole bunch of other nonsense.
Whatever happened to simplicity**********
Okay, so maybe that makes me a newbie again!
Last edited by Allez3; 01-26-10 at 11:25 AM.
01-26-10, 11:26 AM
#2
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the shimano mtb bbs are not cross compatible with the road ones anyways. shimano does not make a road crank for 73mm shells. the only thing i can think of is the new lx trekking crank
01-26-10, 11:27 AM
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No spacers on the 105 double. One on the trip. Pretty easy to install and I think all you need is the BB and the crankset. Follow the directions.
01-26-10, 11:33 AM
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You will have to use mountain cranks and with a 73mm BB shell you will not have tons of spacers..why not use a square taper road crank middleburn comes to mind...and why can't you mix you road and mountain groups you can even cross brand Shimano/SRAM on many things..
01-26-10, 11:55 AM
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Might have too.
Last edited by Allez3; 01-26-10 at 12:02 PM.
01-26-10, 12:13 PM
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The shifters and FD compatibility. Road shifters don't work with MTB FD ( Yes they do my last cummuter had an XT drivetrain with Tiagra shifters drop bar mountain bike aka "Monster Cross"). MTB shifters don't work with Road FD. (Again yes they do alot of guys who run a 2X9 mountain drive train us a DA FD because it can shift more teeth more snoothly) The one set of MTB shifters that do work with Road FDs are crap, but I'm using road shifters anyway. 20 years ago I would use friction shifters and be done. No, I'm not going to use bar end shifters folks. I freakin' hate them.
Might have too.
Might have too.
01-26-10, 12:30 PM
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Honestly, for the amount of $ you're going to drop on drivetrain components, it would be pretty easy to buy a used low / mid-level road bike with everything you want on it.
01-26-10, 01:30 PM
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01-26-10, 01:33 PM
#9
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Unless you have most of the parts sitting around from extra projects, it's almost always cheaper to buy a new bike than to build or even rebuild one.
I have a Trek 4300 similar to yours. I looked into doing a conversion similar to what you're describing for use on Michigan winter roads and light snow. Essentially, I wanted a cyclocross bike with a bit more heft. For what you're describing, your price limit should be about $250-350 US. Above that, you can I nice used road or cyclocross bike, or you can get a good generic bike online with Sora/Tiagra components. Do that, sell your 4300, and you'll come out much better than reconstructing your 4300.
