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Old 01-26-10, 10:01 PM   #1
bluenote157
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how do i install campy hoods?

from the lever or the back end? I'm worried i'm going to rip the them.
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Old 01-26-10, 11:13 PM   #2
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As long as they don't have any nicks which can be the start of a tear, they're pretty stretchy and should go on without any problem. I installed hundreds of these when I was the east coast campy service technician.

It helps to warm the hood in hot tap water, about 120-130F. Slide it on over and around the brake and shift levers while the lever is still mounted on the bar. I use a small rag to improve my grip on the wet rubber, and gently work it over the lever into place. Be sure to get all the locator tabs into the recesses where they belong to keep the hood from moving when you ride.
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Old 01-26-10, 11:59 PM   #3
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As long as they don't have any nicks which can be the start of a tear, they're pretty stretchy and should go on without any problem. I installed hundreds of these when I was the east coast campy service technician.

It helps to warm the hood in hot tap water, about 120-130F. Slide it on over and around the brake and shift levers while the lever is still mounted on the bar. I use a small rag to improve my grip on the wet rubber, and gently work it over the lever into place. Be sure to get all the locator tabs into the recesses where they belong to keep the hood from moving when you ride.
You can also use rubbing alcohol on the inside to reduce friction.
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Old 01-27-10, 08:35 AM   #4
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I usually just stretch them over the lever and pivot/clamp body as needed and turn them inside out at the clamps when installing them on the bar and installing bar tape, but with now "unobtainium" hoods as the one on my Spidel LS sidepull levers, I just slowly and carefully slip them on from the lever end AFTER I install the lever and the bar wrap on the bars, and BEFORE I install the cables. this sequence avoids putting too much stress on the hoods and helps avoid the development of tears and cracks on their edges.

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Old 01-27-10, 08:38 AM   #5
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You can also use rubbing alcohol on the inside to reduce friction.
Not sure, but I thought I've heard before that Alcohol can sometimes attack certain rubber materials (dries them out?). Still remember when there was a concern in car fuel systems and the alcohol added in gas some years ago.


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Old 01-27-10, 08:43 AM   #6
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Isopropyl alcohol will not harm the brake hoods. It works great to make the rubber slick and dries with no residue.
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Old 01-27-10, 08:47 AM   #7
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As long as they don't have any nicks which can be the start of a tear, they're pretty stretchy and should go on without any problem. I installed hundreds of these when I was the east coast campy service technician.

It helps to warm the hood in hot tap water, about 120-130F. Slide it on over and around the brake and shift levers while the lever is still mounted on the bar. I use a small rag to improve my grip on the wet rubber, and gently work it over the lever into place. Be sure to get all the locator tabs into the recesses where they belong to keep the hood from moving when you ride.
Are there more than the tab at the bottom in the back?
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Old 01-27-10, 09:14 AM   #8
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Are there more than the tab at the bottom in the back?
Yes, there are some at the side and one at the very bottom, under the slot for the thumb button lever (pre 2009). All you have to do it look inside the hood to see them.
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Old 01-27-10, 09:19 AM   #9
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I'll add: Go slow and methodical. This operation can be frustrating - just go at it slow & easy. You'll get them 'over-the-hump' - don't get made and try to force 'em if these are very tight hoods. As some are. It's frustration that tears hoods.
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Old 01-27-10, 09:39 AM   #10
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If these are vintage production, the safest way is to remove the lever from the handlebar and slide them on from the back. You can leave the clamp on the handlebar; just remove the retaining nut inside the lever and it will come right off. Slide the hood on from the back, replace the lever on the handlebar and tighten the nut.
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