Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-14-10, 08:31 PM   #1
TromboneAl
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
TromboneAl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Far, Far Northern California
Bikes: 1997 Specialized M2Pro
Posts: 2,875
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Brake Cable Housing Through Top Tube

I just bought a used bike that has the brake cable routed through the top tube. I will be replacing the cable and housing. I assume that there's some kind of guide inside, so that when feed the new housing in, it will automagically come out the other end. Yes?
TromboneAl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-10, 08:57 PM   #2
operator
cab horn
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Posts: 28,306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TromboneAl View Post
I just bought a used bike that has the brake cable routed through the top tube. I will be replacing the cable and housing. I assume that there's some kind of guide inside, so that when feed the new housing in, it will automagically come out the other end. Yes?
It depends on the frame. Some frames will not run housing through the top tube all the way, some will not. The ones that don't will have (obviously) stops near the stem and one near the seatpost - some of these will be removeable so you can easily snake a cable through, a spoke hook end will help you fish the cable through easily.

Other frames that run full housing may have an internal guide (kuota). It will be immediately obvious which system it is as soon as you start taking it apart. I suggest you do not remove the inner wire if it runs cable and housing the whole way - you can use that as a guide for the housing greatly simplfying the repair.
operator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-10, 09:07 PM   #3
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 29,116
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
It does indeed depend on the frame. Older Trek bonded Al frames did NOT have a cable guide inside the top tube and if you pulled both the housing and cable out, you faced a fishing expedition to replace them.

I recommend pulling out ONLY the housing at first. Then thread the new housing back into the frame using the inner cable as a guide. Finally, replace the inner cable. This is the safest approach whether there is or is not an internal guide tube.
HillRider is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-10, 09:27 PM   #4
DOS
Senior Member
 
DOS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Arlington, VA USA
Bikes:
Posts: 1,495
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Internal routing is a pain. Here is what has worked for me.

Disconnect cable at brake. If housing goes all the way through tube, slide it out toward back of bike (leaving cable is place). Thread bottom end of old cable a little ways into top end of new housing and tape off. Then, pull cable out of tube toward front of bike, allowing it to pull new housing through the tube with it. Then, slide new cable through new housing from lever.

If your bike has stops in the top tube, so housing does not go all the way through the tube, but runs from lever to tube and tube to caliper, I still use housing to guide new cable through the tube by threading a length of housing temporarily through the tube to serve as a cable guide. You will have to pry out the stops from either side of the top tube, then do as described above to snake housing temporarily into tube and slide cable back though -- being sure to snake cable through exterior permanent housing (from lever to stop) and then the loose cable stop before entering the temp housing you're using as a guide through the tube. Then, once cable is through the temp interior housing, pull that housing out of the tube toward the back of the bike, reaffix stops into the tube, and attach cable to brake as appropriate.
DOS is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-10, 09:35 PM   #5
well biked 
biked well
 
well biked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 7,123
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DOS View Post
Internal routing is a pain.
Some is, some isn't. There's a a guide inside the top tube on my Pinarello frame that makes it super easy to run the cable.

well biked is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-10, 10:07 PM   #6
DOS
Senior Member
 
DOS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Arlington, VA USA
Bikes:
Posts: 1,495
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by well biked View Post
Some is, some isn't. There's a a guide inside the top tube on my Pinarello frame that makes it super easy to run the cable.

Gotta love Italian Steel. Kestral carbon, no so much.
DOS is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-10, 10:10 PM   #7
well biked 
biked well
 
well biked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 7,123
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DOS View Post
Gotta love Italian Steel. Kestral carbon, no so much.
THAT, I will agree with.
well biked is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-10, 08:40 AM   #8
CliftonGK1
Senior Member
 
CliftonGK1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Posts: 11,380
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by well biked View Post
Some is, some isn't. There's a a guide inside the top tube on my Pinarello frame that makes it super easy to run the cable.
Lucky!
No internal guide on my PDG Series-5.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
CliftonGK1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-10, 10:00 AM   #9
joejack951
Senior Member
 
joejack951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 1984 Trek 660, 2003 Specialized Hardrock, 2004 LOOK KG386i (RIP), 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2014 Islabikes CNOC 14 (son's)
Posts: 10,368
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 291 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
It does indeed depend on the frame. Older Trek bonded Al frames did NOT have a cable guide inside the top tube and if you pulled both the housing and cable out, you faced a fishing expedition to replace them.
It wasn't a bonded aluminum frame but the Trek 1400 (I think that was the model number) that I tuned up for a friend had no internal guide either. Without really thinking, I pulled the housing and cable all the way out. It was pretty easy to reroute by pulling the seatpost out and using a stick to push the housing towards the exit hole. The ability to do this will depend on where the housing exits the top tube though. On the 1400, it exits right near the seat tube junction making this an easy task.

Pic found through Google:

joejack951 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-10, 10:50 AM   #10
TromboneAl
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
TromboneAl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Far, Far Northern California
Bikes: 1997 Specialized M2Pro
Posts: 2,875
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yes, that's how mine is:

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cable 003.jpg (32.1 KB, 29 views)
TromboneAl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-10, 11:48 AM   #11
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 29,116
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
The Trek 1400 was/is indeed a bonded Al frame but the lugs are internal and not obvious. I have a 1420 which was the triple-crank version of the same bike. TromboneAl's bike is one of the later carbon tube/aluminum lug frames Trek build for a few years after the bonded 1200/1400 all-Al frames were discontinued.

The only thing that makes replacing their rear brake cable "an easy task" is the fact that the top tube is open at the seat tube junction so you can remove the seatpost and insert a finger into the top tube to guide the cable out of the rear hole. It is still a bit of a hassle and leaving the inner wire in place to guide new housing is still less trouble.
HillRider is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-10, 01:05 PM   #12
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400
Posts: 3,080
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
I did my Trek 1000 just the other day. I pulled the old inner out and threaded the new inner through the old housing. The new inner was then the guide for the new housing. took just seconds to do.
dedhed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-10, 06:49 PM   #13
joejack951
Senior Member
 
joejack951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 1984 Trek 660, 2003 Specialized Hardrock, 2004 LOOK KG386i (RIP), 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2014 Islabikes CNOC 14 (son's)
Posts: 10,368
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 291 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
The Trek 1400 was/is indeed a bonded Al frame but the lugs are internal and not obvious. I have a 1420 which was the triple-crank version of the same bike.
Interesting. What did they use to smooth the joints between the tubes on the outside?
joejack951 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-10, 08:03 PM   #14
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 29,116
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
Interesting. What did they use to smooth the joints between the tubes on the outside?
They did a good job didn't they? The lugs are internal and the tubes butt up against eachother and I presume the adhesive and paint fill in the seams "seamlessly". Here is a reproduction of the 1992 Trek catalog specifying that the 1400 and 1420 are "bonded aluminum". Scroll down to page 9 to find them.

http://www.bikeman.com/attic/catalog...992catalog.pdf
HillRider is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-10, 05:48 PM   #15
joejack951
Senior Member
 
joejack951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 1984 Trek 660, 2003 Specialized Hardrock, 2004 LOOK KG386i (RIP), 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2014 Islabikes CNOC 14 (son's)
Posts: 10,368
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 291 Post(s)
Hillrider, thanks for the link. I agree on the nice job hiding the lugged construction. It's always fun to look back at those cycling catalogs and see how much things have changed. Check out those New Balance sneakers and toe clips on the guy riding the full suspension MTB
joejack951 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-10, 06:05 PM   #16
TromboneAl
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
TromboneAl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Far, Far Northern California
Bikes: 1997 Specialized M2Pro
Posts: 2,875
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
BTW, the trick of using the old cable to guide the housing did not work so well, but using my pinkie finger to guide it (since the exit is so close the seat tube) worked very well.
TromboneAl is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:36 PM.