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Old 02-15-10, 06:25 AM   #1
mke-bruiser
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seatCLAMP shim please...

this is similar to that other thread with NO answer so im going to try to ask it again. im simply looking for a shim to use a 31.8mm QR seatclamp on a frame that wants a 30.0mm seatclamp. seems simple enough right? wrong. there HAS to be someone who has figured out a simple yet effective method to shore that up.... hopefully
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Old 02-15-10, 07:07 AM   #2
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I have seen posts on similar questions saying to use a strip of aluminum from a beer or pop can. .8mm is pretty small one strip may do it.
It's worth a try. I have used shims like this to use a smaller seat post in a larger tube, worked great.
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Old 02-15-10, 07:17 AM   #3
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The best method is to just get the right parts.

I've shimmed many seatposts and a set of handlebars with a soda can sliver cut with scissors. You have to play with the length of shim you need and usually "twist" the seat post with the shim to get it into the seat tube, but it works fine if you get the shim in there properly.

That said, it is so much easier and less crappy to just get the right parts.
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Old 02-15-10, 07:27 AM   #4
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Just buy the right damn part.... rigging something usually never works out well.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Sa...mp/5360042535/
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Old 02-16-10, 04:56 AM   #5
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thanks for the responses. and yes i know its better to use the right part, BUT... i found the most trick seatclamp, KCNC superlight, and im determined to make it work. thin aluminum is the way i've been too. i was thinking "metal tape", then i thought of an old tape measure about 1/4" wide or so and cut about a foot off and see how many wraps i need. is this failure or no?
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Old 02-16-10, 07:04 AM   #6
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Congratulations on your upcoming Darwin Award....
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Old 02-16-10, 07:09 AM   #7
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Shim it with epoxy.

I reckon it's a pretty slack trend, away from integrated clamps... and what's with all the clamp-on FDs, for crying out loud?
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Old 02-16-10, 11:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mke-bruiser View Post
thanks for the responses. and yes i know its better to use the right part, BUT... i found the most trick seatclamp, KCNC superlight, and im determined to make it work. thin aluminum is the way i've been too. i was thinking "metal tape", then i thought of an old tape measure about 1/4" wide or so and cut about a foot off and see how many wraps i need. is this failure or no?
A pop can/beer can will work and i'll add to the buy the right clamp. It's going to nullify however cool that clamp is going to look with metal shims anyways
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Old 02-16-10, 12:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mke-bruiser View Post
thanks for the responses. and yes i know its better to use the right part, BUT... i found the most trick seatclamp, KCNC superlight, and im determined to make it work. thin aluminum is the way i've been too. i was thinking "metal tape", then i thought of an old tape measure about 1/4" wide or so and cut about a foot off and see how many wraps i need. is this failure or no?
A "most trick" seatclamp with a jury-rigged shim ceases to be trick.

Just buy the right part, they're not expensive.
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Old 02-16-10, 02:26 PM   #10
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You've got it all wrong. Instead of shimming the clamp you need to dump your frame and buy one to fit that super trick seatpost clamp....

I have to go with the others that say a shimmed trick clamp ain't so trick when the shims are there. Stick your trick clamp into the parts box for some future project bike and get the correct size. Besides, unless you're very lucky and one or two layers is just the right amount the clamp won't hold with a full and even 360 grip. And when that doesn't happen you'll find that your post wiggles around and sinks down the tube requiring you to stop and lift it up into place frequently.
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Old 02-16-10, 04:14 PM   #11
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Yo but the clamp is purple it totally rules.
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Old 07-09-11, 03:48 PM   #12
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Plumber Screw Clamps

Something that worked for me is those plumber screw clamps. They come in different thicknesses, are already circular, and have a course surface. I used a dremmel to cut the excess, inserted the piece to the inside of the clamp, and then I clamped on a spare post to get the shim to mold to the inside of the clamp. This makes it easier to slide on the real post without scratching it. The aluminum can idea is fail since I found there is play from side to side. This is probably due to it being very smooth and the surfaces slipping past one another.

I definitely agree with the other posters that you should get the right clamp for the right post, but in my case .....the seat clamp had a forged cable stop for cantis. Finding the right size clamp with a forged stop is very rare and although there are other options, it was the cleanest option for someone looking to run cantis on a frame that doesn't have stops.

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Old 07-09-11, 06:44 PM   #13
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I expect he found a solution about a year and a half back.....
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Old 07-09-11, 08:25 PM   #14
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Epic thread revival sleus -- the OP is probably a senator by now.
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Old 07-09-11, 08:58 PM   #15
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easy.. just need a lathe to turn down tubing to spec.
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Old 07-09-11, 10:52 PM   #16
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I expect he found a solution about a year and a half back.....
You're probably right.

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