Bike Chain
02-16-10, 06:05 PM
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Bike Chain
I am looking to replace the chain on my bike which i have never done before. I am looking for the correct chain and see that there are chains maked with different speeds like 7 and 8. What is the difference between these and may i need a specific one? Also does anyone have any tips when replacing the chain?
02-16-10, 06:16 PM
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Width is the difference. If you use a lower speed chain with a drive train that has a higher number of speeds, the chain will stick against adjacent sprockets in the cassette. If you use higher speed chain on a lower speed drive, the sprockets can be too thick to fit inside the chain.
There is some overlap in what's acceptable to use. What sort of drivetrain do you have?
There is some overlap in what's acceptable to use. What sort of drivetrain do you have?
02-16-10, 06:21 PM
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I am new to all of these terms and just decided to pull my bike out of maintanence. I figured it would need a little maintenance and the chain would need replaced. All i can say is that i know it is 21 speed, but i haven't even taken it our yet. I am pretty sure the gears are 3 on one side and 7 on the other making 21. Can you tell what i would need from that?
02-16-10, 07:53 PM
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A seven speed can be either a freewheel or a cassette.
To know if you need a cassette you need to measure the chain. When any one foot interval of chain becomes elongated to 12 1/16th inches if needs to be replaced. Use a good steel ruler with all of the slack out of the chain. If a chain is allowed to stretch more than 1/16" per foot the cogs may be worn enough that the new chain will skip on the teeth.
A 7-speed or 8-speed chain will work.
02-17-10, 02:04 PM
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I have an old 6 speed bike (6 cogs on the freewheel in back, 2 chainrings on the front, used to be called 12 speed), and I was able to replace the old chain with a new 8 speed chain. The only problem is that once I did that, the new chain would skip on the old cogs in back due to the mismatch of having a new chain running with the old worn cog teeth. Then I had to replace the old freewheel with a new one (only $15). Since my old chain didn't really have visible corrosion, I probably could've saved the money and just rode it until it started skipping on its own/started to rust/exploded. On the plus side, I now have a really shiny new freewheel and well-lubed new chain...
One tip not mentioned, don't assume that the chain you had on previously was the right length. The one I had was actually one link too long. There are a number of ways people determine the right length, I used 3 outta the 4 listed in Leonard Zinn's book and that's how I found out my old chain was too long.
The Park Tool how-to's are awesome:
https://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=5
One tip not mentioned, don't assume that the chain you had on previously was the right length. The one I had was actually one link too long. There are a number of ways people determine the right length, I used 3 outta the 4 listed in Leonard Zinn's book and that's how I found out my old chain was too long.
The Park Tool how-to's are awesome:
https://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=5
