Older SA hub - reinstalling plastic oil port ?!
#1
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Older SA hub - reinstalling plastic oil port ?!
I have acquired a 1979 Sturmey-Archer S5.1 (1979). It seems to work, so I'm preparing to build a wheel with it.
The original plastic oil port is missing. This version of the hub shell has a hexagonal hole into which the oil port fits. Using a screwdriver, I took removed one from a non-functioning AW that I had, and attempted to install it in the S5.
The bottom of the oil port is also hexagonally shaped, but of course it's slightly larger than the hole into which it fits--this allows it to stay in place.
But how in heaven's name did it get in there in the first place!? I pushed and prodded from every direction. I tried soaking the port in hot water, hoping to soften it a little, so that it might pop into place. Nothing worked. I can't seem to get it to fit in the hexagonal hole.
They certainly seem like they are meant to be replaceable. Any ideas?
The original plastic oil port is missing. This version of the hub shell has a hexagonal hole into which the oil port fits. Using a screwdriver, I took removed one from a non-functioning AW that I had, and attempted to install it in the S5.
The bottom of the oil port is also hexagonally shaped, but of course it's slightly larger than the hole into which it fits--this allows it to stay in place.
But how in heaven's name did it get in there in the first place!? I pushed and prodded from every direction. I tried soaking the port in hot water, hoping to soften it a little, so that it might pop into place. Nothing worked. I can't seem to get it to fit in the hexagonal hole.
They certainly seem like they are meant to be replaceable. Any ideas?
#2
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At least that's how I was taught in the old Schwinn shop. It's been ages since I had to fix one.
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The best tool for screwing these in is a wooden skewer, Wedge it gently into the open port and thread it into the hole like a self tapping screw, except the steel hub shell will cut threads into the port.
If that fails and the wheel isn't built yet do what I did years ago when I couldn't find a replacement port. Clean the area around the hole to bare metal, tape over it with a spot of cloth surgical tape (good glue is important) and cover with a rubber band cut from an old tube. I originally didn't use the tape but the oil would weep under the rubber band. The tape stopped it perfectly.
If that fails and the wheel isn't built yet do what I did years ago when I couldn't find a replacement port. Clean the area around the hole to bare metal, tape over it with a spot of cloth surgical tape (good glue is important) and cover with a rubber band cut from an old tube. I originally didn't use the tape but the oil would weep under the rubber band. The tape stopped it perfectly.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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