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Old 08-22-04, 07:32 PM   #1
John E
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my Peugeot if falling apart!

On the oldroads.com / vintage lightweights forum, I posted a tip for salvaging a crank with a worn spindle eye: grind a couple of mm off the back surface, around the spindle eye, to restore clearance with the BB cup. That was last week's problem with my PKN-10. This morning, when I got to my destination and started to lock up the bike, I noticed some torn cords in the rear tyre sidewall, and the first hints of a telltale bulge. The tyre is a 700Cx28 Specialized Armadillo Turbo, probably close to 4 years old. Not wanting to take any chances, this afternoon I bought a new Continental Ultra 2000 for the front, and moved the front tyre, also a Specialized Armadillo, to the rear. I also found the source of my annoying and disturbing drivetrain click and pop sound: one of the rollers on my chain had either worn or broken off, so that the inward protrusions of the inside link plates were contacting the chainring and cog teeth. This is the first time I have ever encountered this problem, and I am trying to figure out the failure mechanism. My best guess is that this particular roller seized (or perhaps never did turn freely) and gradually wore down, until it broke, but this sounds a bit unlikely. I have been using White Lightning or RaceDay; is the lubrication inadequate?
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Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Old 08-22-04, 07:53 PM   #2
sydney
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I have been using White Lightning or RaceDay; is the lubrication inadequate?
White Lightning succks
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Old 08-23-04, 04:28 PM   #3
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The roller broke because it failed. Dont try to figure out why....because you wont. Although I have.
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Old 08-23-04, 05:23 PM   #4
don d.
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Originally Posted by John E
On the oldroads.com / vintage lightweights forum, I posted a tip for salvaging a crank with a worn spindle eye: grind a couple of mm off the back surface, around the spindle eye, to restore clearance with the BB cup.
I had wondered why you experienced so many crank failures as you have cited in your past posts. Now I know.

For the uninformed: Do not try this at home!...or in a shop!... as it weakens the crank. Install your crank with a torque wrench (that you can buy for less than the cost of a replacement crank) and your arms should last a loooong time.
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Old 08-23-04, 09:08 PM   #5
John E
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I had wondered why you experienced so many crank failures as you have cited in your past posts. Now I know.

For the uninformed: Do not try this at home!...or in a shop!... as it weakens the crank. Install your crank with a torque wrench (that you can buy for less than the cost of a replacement crank) and your arms should last a loooong time.
I have snapped a left-side cottered steel crank (1960 Agrati) at its weakest point, the trailing side of the cotter eye. I have snapped a cotterless aluminum crank (1971 Sugino Mighty Compe) at its weakest point, the pedal eye. Neither failure had anything whatsoever to do with grinding a couple of mm off of the very wide, robust surround of the spindle eye of a cotterless mountain bike crank.

The only reason I had to do this was that the original owner had evidently ridden with the crank too loose. I agree with your advice -- protect your cranks by using a torque wrench.
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Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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