Shimano Hollowtech crank removal.
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Shimano Hollowtech crank removal.
Last time I removed cranks were the ones with the tapered pins. My Gemini has Shimano Hollowtech cranks. I removed the plastic seal to expose the inner core of the crank. There is what looks like an 8mm hex socket. My guess is that I remove this first and that exposes the thread on the inside of the crank. The standard Park Tool crank puller I have will not fit, so I assume I need a special adapter to pull the crank arms off that screws into the crank arm and onto the shaft of the puller?
Has anyone removed these types of crank? I also presume the threads are conventional (anti-clockwise to unscrew) and don't use clockwise removal like pedal threads do?
I need to get these off as (a) I want to use a better bb, and (b) I damaged the front mech cage and it's one of those that fit onto the bb and not the downtube.
Help appreciated.
Has anyone removed these types of crank? I also presume the threads are conventional (anti-clockwise to unscrew) and don't use clockwise removal like pedal threads do?
I need to get these off as (a) I want to use a better bb, and (b) I damaged the front mech cage and it's one of those that fit onto the bb and not the downtube.
Help appreciated.
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Originally Posted by Bokkie
Last time I removed cranks were the ones with the tapered pins. My Gemini has Shimano Hollowtech cranks. I removed the plastic seal to expose the inner core of the crank. There is what looks like an 8mm hex socket. My guess is that I remove this first and that exposes the thread on the inside of the crank. The standard Park Tool crank puller I have will not fit, so I assume I need a special adapter to pull the crank arms off that screws into the crank arm and onto the shaft of the puller?
Has anyone removed these types of crank? I also presume the threads are conventional (anti-clockwise to unscrew) and don't use clockwise removal like pedal threads do?
I need to get these off as (a) I want to use a better bb, and (b) I damaged the front mech cage and it's one of those that fit onto the bb and not the downtube.
Help appreciated.
Has anyone removed these types of crank? I also presume the threads are conventional (anti-clockwise to unscrew) and don't use clockwise removal like pedal threads do?
I need to get these off as (a) I want to use a better bb, and (b) I damaged the front mech cage and it's one of those that fit onto the bb and not the downtube.
Help appreciated.
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You're pretty much right. There is a slightly different Park tool, that has a black handle, for removing hollowtech crank arms. That's obviously the "A" solution.
Some alternative answers:
1. Some cranks have self-removing rings that surround the crank arm fixing bolt. These can be identified by the two pin wrench holes in the dust cap. If you have those, just unscrewing the bolt with everything still in place should remove the crank arm.
2. Shimano made an adapter, that looks like a little metal hat, that you can use with your standard, blue handled park tool for removing hollowtech cranks.
3. In a pinch, I've used a nut that was the right size to fit in the crank arm as a substitute for the Shimano adapter. Unfortunately, a dime is just a smidge too big in diameter.
Some alternative answers:
1. Some cranks have self-removing rings that surround the crank arm fixing bolt. These can be identified by the two pin wrench holes in the dust cap. If you have those, just unscrewing the bolt with everything still in place should remove the crank arm.
2. Shimano made an adapter, that looks like a little metal hat, that you can use with your standard, blue handled park tool for removing hollowtech cranks.
3. In a pinch, I've used a nut that was the right size to fit in the crank arm as a substitute for the Shimano adapter. Unfortunately, a dime is just a smidge too big in diameter.
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I seem to recall having something in the toolbox that I never thought I'd use. I put is somewhere safe, so safe I can't recall where, so if anyone knows where I put it, please let me know!
So, effectively, I remove the 8mm bolt and wind the crank off with the Park Tool I already have and with some sort of insert. I also guess that the cranks are stuck like sh1t on a baby's blanket. I suppose I should give them a good spray of WD-40 penetrating oil before pulling them off?
So, effectively, I remove the 8mm bolt and wind the crank off with the Park Tool I already have and with some sort of insert. I also guess that the cranks are stuck like sh1t on a baby's blanket. I suppose I should give them a good spray of WD-40 penetrating oil before pulling them off?
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Originally Posted by Bokkie
I also guess that the cranks are stuck like sh1t on a baby's blanket.
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Phew! I never did like baby's sh1t anyway! I recall the insert you are referring to. It was shaped like a hat and I got it to fit the blue-handled puller.
I take it the crank bolt needs a lot of muscle to shift that puppy? What kind of you-won't-read-this-in-any-book tip you can suggest to stop the crank arm rotating around the bb in the same direction you are trying to unscrew the bolt?
I take it the crank bolt needs a lot of muscle to shift that puppy? What kind of you-won't-read-this-in-any-book tip you can suggest to stop the crank arm rotating around the bb in the same direction you are trying to unscrew the bolt?
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Originally Posted by Bokkie
I take it the crank bolt needs a lot of muscle to shift that puppy? What kind of you-won't-read-this-in-any-book tip you can suggest to stop the crank arm rotating around the bb in the same direction you are trying to unscrew the bolt?
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Sounds good! Half the torque in each arm? I had visions of having to use a 6 ft lever to undo the bolt.
On the subject, how critical is the correct torque when re-fitting the bolt? I guess the old days of hand-tight and then 10 full turns are long over?
I have a decent torque wrench but I get the impression the torque values vary widely? I could not find anything at Shimano's website to explain the desired torque. The Barnett's manuals have a lot of information but I don't know if they take a middle-of-the-road approach as I can't find Hollowtech cranks mentioned specifically.
On the subject, how critical is the correct torque when re-fitting the bolt? I guess the old days of hand-tight and then 10 full turns are long over?
I have a decent torque wrench but I get the impression the torque values vary widely? I could not find anything at Shimano's website to explain the desired torque. The Barnett's manuals have a lot of information but I don't know if they take a middle-of-the-road approach as I can't find Hollowtech cranks mentioned specifically.
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Originally Posted by Bokkie
Sounds good! Half the torque in each arm? I had visions of having to use a 6 ft lever to undo the bolt.
On the subject, how critical is the correct torque when re-fitting the bolt? I guess the old days of hand-tight and then 10 full turns are long over?
I have a decent torque wrench but I get the impression the torque values vary widely? I could not find anything at Shimano's website to explain the desired torque. The Barnett's manuals have a lot of information but I don't know if they take a middle-of-the-road approach as I can't find Hollowtech cranks mentioned specifically.
On the subject, how critical is the correct torque when re-fitting the bolt? I guess the old days of hand-tight and then 10 full turns are long over?
I have a decent torque wrench but I get the impression the torque values vary widely? I could not find anything at Shimano's website to explain the desired torque. The Barnett's manuals have a lot of information but I don't know if they take a middle-of-the-road approach as I can't find Hollowtech cranks mentioned specifically.
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Originally Posted by sydney
Shimano says 305 to 435 inch pounds. But, I have never used a torque wrench on a bike.