new ultegra component problems
#1
bicyclebikes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
new ultegra component problems
yesterday i bought a new 2009 trek madone 4.7 with shimano ultegra components on it. I went for a short ride today and realized that there were some problems with the shifting. When i am in the big ring in the front, and the smaller ones in the back, the chain almost seems to skip on a couple of the teeth on the cassette. Also, when i am in the big ring in the front and the big ring in the back, the rear derailleur automatically shifts it down a couple of rings in the back. I am not sure what the problem is, but i know that the components are brand new.
#2
Senior Member
The derailleur needs to be dialed in a bit better. Minor cable tension adjustment and maybe limit screw adjustments ought to do the trick. Since you just bought it, bring it back to the shop and have them make the adjustments.
#3
Thrifty Bill
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,523
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
+1 One of the key advantages of buying new is after sale service. That's built into the price of a new bike. Take it back and have the experts adjust it for you.
#5
Senior Member
If you'd prefer to learn versus always needing to take your bike into the shop for minor adjustments, read up on derailler adjustments at www.parktool.com
You only need basic tools and a reasonable amount of mechanical sense to dial in a derailler properly. Most adjustments are simply a matter of tweaking cable tension though. Read through the Park site and watch what your bike is doing while shifting it on a stand (or upside down if you have no stand). Determine which direction the derailler needs to move to function properly then adjust limit screws or cable tension to get there. Assuming the shop you bought the bike from had a clue, you shouldn't need to touch the limit screws; they are typically set once and never touch again.
You only need basic tools and a reasonable amount of mechanical sense to dial in a derailler properly. Most adjustments are simply a matter of tweaking cable tension though. Read through the Park site and watch what your bike is doing while shifting it on a stand (or upside down if you have no stand). Determine which direction the derailler needs to move to function properly then adjust limit screws or cable tension to get there. Assuming the shop you bought the bike from had a clue, you shouldn't need to touch the limit screws; they are typically set once and never touch again.
#7
Senior Member
#8
cab horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
18 Posts
Assuming the bike was even built properly, which is a very good assumption not to make. The standard cable length on those madones is with near certainty 100% too short for the rear loop. Assuming it was cut properly the OP is going to basically just want to tear down the entire cable system and readjust the derailleurs from scratch. Was the hanger checked for alignment? Again, new bikes out of the box with misaligned hangers. I've yet to seen hardly any bike shops putting out assemblies and assemblers worth more than 3 cents.
#9
Senior Member
#10
cab horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
18 Posts
I just checked a '10 madone this afternoon, pre-assembled by another shop.
1) All cable and housing either too short or too long
2) Cables crossing inside the downtube and crossed in front (what the ****?)
3) Barrel adjusters (not needed for rear), upside down
4) Derailleur hanger bent
We're not a Trek dealer so god knows how many crappily assembled bikes are floating out there. Use of the pre-cut shimano rear derailleur loop is almost a near 100% dead giveaway that it is too short and the person assembling it blows ass. For gods sake it was full Sram Red.
1) All cable and housing either too short or too long
2) Cables crossing inside the downtube and crossed in front (what the ****?)
3) Barrel adjusters (not needed for rear), upside down
4) Derailleur hanger bent
We're not a Trek dealer so god knows how many crappily assembled bikes are floating out there. Use of the pre-cut shimano rear derailleur loop is almost a near 100% dead giveaway that it is too short and the person assembling it blows ass. For gods sake it was full Sram Red.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: El Segundo, Ca.
Posts: 214
Bikes: '93 Performance R203, '83 Bianchi 980
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is it possible, the chain is short also? (back shifting in big-big)
#12
bike whisperer
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,537
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1523 Post(s)
Liked 716 Times
in
508 Posts
Yeesh, that Kmart-style assembly is a horrible fate for such nice gear.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 628
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you'd prefer to learn versus always needing to take your bike into the shop for minor adjustments, read up on derailler adjustments at www.parktool.com
+1000000
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 9,458
Bikes: Something Canadian, something Italian, something American, and something German
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times
in
10 Posts
Honestly though, I could not understand the park stuff. Maybe I'm just incompetent, but I don't think it works for everyone. But now I work as a mechanic and it's easy.