Bottom Bracket Overhaul Question
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Bottom Bracket Overhaul Question
Hi everyone,
I'm in the process of overhauling my bottom bracket, it is a cup and ball bearing type with the bearings in a retainer. When removing the spindle I noticed that the long side was on the left, non-drive side. Is this the case in some instances? From what I understand the long side should be on the drive side. This is the first overhaul for this bracket, is it possible it was installed backwards at the factory?
thanks for any help
charlie
I'm in the process of overhauling my bottom bracket, it is a cup and ball bearing type with the bearings in a retainer. When removing the spindle I noticed that the long side was on the left, non-drive side. Is this the case in some instances? From what I understand the long side should be on the drive side. This is the first overhaul for this bracket, is it possible it was installed backwards at the factory?
thanks for any help
charlie
#3
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Test the distance between the inside of the crankarm behind the pedal-hole and the chainstays after you re-install. I like to install my spindles such that the ends of the crankarms (and pedals) are equi-distant away from the centre of the seat-tube. May cause knee issues if one side is further away than the other.
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I ran into the exact same thing years ago on a '93 Trek 7000 MTB. When I first overhauled the cup-and-cone bb, I was very surprised that the factory made such a stupid mistake. So, when I reassembled the bb I put the spindle in "correctly" and immediately discovered that the non-drive side crank arm then hit the chainstay!
Apparently the fat chainstays on this bike rerquired a very long spindle (~130 mm) and installation with the long side to the non-drive side to clear everything properly. So, your experience isn't unique.
Apparently the fat chainstays on this bike rerquired a very long spindle (~130 mm) and installation with the long side to the non-drive side to clear everything properly. So, your experience isn't unique.
#6
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Throw the retainers away, and buy loose balls. Factories use them because they're cheaper and faster to assemble. (retainer rings cost less than ball bearings, and there are only two parts to install, instead of 22.) But a full complement of ball bearings (That's almost universally eleven quarter-inch balls per side) works better and will last longer, spin with lower friction, and is less likely click under load. It might cost you sixty cents more in parts, and take five minutes longer to put together. (If you put a reasonable smear of grease in the cups, the bearings will stick to it.)
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Thanks to all
thanks for all the replies guys.
HillRider, the bike is a mtn bike so I'm gonna install the spindle the same way it came out.
illwafer, re-read my post. I bought the bike new and this is the first overhaul, if it's installed incorrectly it was done at the factory.
dscheidt, yeah I'm going with loose bearings instead of the retainers thanks for confirming that.
thanks to everyone
charlie
HillRider, the bike is a mtn bike so I'm gonna install the spindle the same way it came out.
illwafer, re-read my post. I bought the bike new and this is the first overhaul, if it's installed incorrectly it was done at the factory.
dscheidt, yeah I'm going with loose bearings instead of the retainers thanks for confirming that.
thanks to everyone
charlie
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