Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-04-10, 05:45 PM   #1
cosepiece
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Bikes:
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Sluggish rear brake - HELP!

I am putting together a frankestein and i cant get the rear side pull caliper brake to work at all..
I realize the rear brake is only about 20% of the stopping power, but on this bike it is barley noticeable.
I can depress the brake lever as hard as possible and the rear wheel still moves with little resistance.
I started replacing parts one by one with no luck. New pads, new cable, new housing, newish brake levers, fresh lube inside the housing, and a like new caliper.

Granted i am using the old school type of housing, with no plastic coating inside, as well as a steel rim. But I can't believe that these are enough to cause this much of a problem.

Any help would be appreciated, this is driving me nuts!

Thanks!

-MC
cosepiece is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-10, 05:53 PM   #2
cyclist2000
Senior Member
 
cyclist2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Up
Bikes: Masi (retired), Giant TCR, Eisentraut, Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo (trainer bike), Cannondale, 84 Stumpjumper, Waterford(N+1), Tern D8 (N+1), looking for a Ti frame
Posts: 3,025
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
steel rims really suck as braking surface.

photos will help
cyclist2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-10, 05:53 PM   #3
cosepiece
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Bikes:
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Oh.. and i also tried two different routing styles.. its a ladies frame.

along the top tube and up the seat post
and
along the top tube and swung up to the brake.. like on a mixte.

The second was a bit better. but not much at all.
cosepiece is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-10, 07:46 PM   #4
thompsonpost
Guest
 
Bikes:
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
Most likely the housing. Major friction inside against the cable. Remember that the cable is always under stress. It's always tight, even slightly.
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-10, 08:38 PM   #5
fuzz2050
Real Men Ride Ordinaries
 
fuzz2050's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 3,697
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If it is a mixte, mount the brakes on the middle set of stays, you get a much cleaner routing that way.

otherwise, I'd replace the wheel first, steel rims just barely work under the best of circumstances.
fuzz2050 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-10, 12:47 AM   #6
DannoXYZ 
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 11,600
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I suspect cable-friction. Take the entire cable-assembly apart and grease the inner cable. I prefer a mix of graphite mixed in with white lithium grease. Over time as the grease dries out, the graphite still provides residual lubrication.

Also be careful of all cable-stops and cable-housing ends. They should be tight fitting and fit straight with no angles or else the housing will rub on the cable.

Steel rims are awful. There are Kool-Stop pads made for chrome-plated steel rims, but they're only a minor improvement. Cheaper to replace the wheel with one using an aluminium rim.
DannoXYZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-10, 06:59 AM   #7
thompsonpost
Guest
 
Bikes:
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
I tried doing this on an old Continental many years ago, and it was a failure. If you know the frame configuration of a Schwinn Continental, it's a straight shot along the top tube to just under the saddle from the right lever. No extreme bends at all, but yet, it was really hard to get the rear brake to work, even after gallons of Tri-Flow. YMMV, but I doubt it. get a length of inner sleeve housing, re-cut the housing and grab a new cable just in case you get a frayed end.
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:06 PM.