Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-11-10, 01:41 PM   #1
wmgreene85
Mission Creep
Thread Starter
 
wmgreene85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: oakland, ca
Bikes: raleigh macaframa, motobecane record
Posts: 274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Headset "play" HELP!

Im having a problem with my headset and figured you all could help me find some kind of solution. There seems to be some "play" in my headset when holding my front brake and rocking back and forth. The star nut is in correctly and the forks are cut with the right spacing. The headscrew is pretty damn tight aswell. But still, when holding the front brake and putting force on the handle bars, I see my spacers moving forward about .5mm.

Im thinking it may be the fork-- which is a cheap eighthinch cromo fork. Maybe its not fitting in the headset as snugly as its supposed to.

Ive taken everything apart and looked it all over, tightened and retightened the headset bot, all to no avail.

Also, it is noteworthy to say im using very, very soft trials bike brake pads-- they are very sticky!

Is .5mm of movement a problem? There's no movement while i'm riding... I just figured someone here may have had a similar experience. Please help!!
wmgreene85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 01:50 PM   #2
queerpunk
aka mattio
 
queerpunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 5,978
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
when you put it back together, you need to tighten the top cap before you tighten the stem to the steerer tube. that's what compresses the bearing system and eliminates the play. then, you tighten the stem to the steerertube - this holds the system together.

if you don't have enough spacers - which sometimes you can't tell immediately - then the top cap just contacts the top of the steerer tube, rather than pushing on the spacers, stem, and ultimately compressing the bearing system.

go look into those and report back.
queerpunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 01:55 PM   #3
wmgreene85
Mission Creep
Thread Starter
 
wmgreene85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: oakland, ca
Bikes: raleigh macaframa, motobecane record
Posts: 274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
yes absolutely, the top cap is definitely "pinching" the spacers; it is extremely tight- to a point where my front wheel will not spin or tilt to either side when lifted off the ground.
wmgreene85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 02:04 PM   #4
norskagent
car dodger
 
norskagent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: garner/raleigh nc
Bikes:
Posts: 3,365
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Is there a gap between the top spacer and the top of the steer tube? There needs to be...
__________________
1989 Schwinn Paramount OS
1980 Mclean/Silk Hope Sport Touring
1983 Bianchi pista
1976 Fuji Feather track
1979 raleigh track
"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
norskagent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 02:25 PM   #5
wmgreene85
Mission Creep
Thread Starter
 
wmgreene85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: oakland, ca
Bikes: raleigh macaframa, motobecane record
Posts: 274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
yes about 3mm...
wmgreene85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 02:32 PM   #6
carleton
Elitist
 
carleton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Bikes:
Posts: 13,133
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Moving to mechanics.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrob View Post
Roadies can run tempo all year as that's what humans were designed for. If you want to be a cheetah, lay around and lick your paws more.
carleton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 02:32 PM   #7
kringle
I step on puppies
 
kringle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: San Francisco / Chicago
Bikes:
Posts: 587
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
ovalized headtube?
kringle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 02:36 PM   #8
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,847
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Are the sterm clamp bolts loose before you try to adjust the headset? That's an easy thing to miss and is often the explanation for this problem.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 02:58 PM   #9
wmgreene85
Mission Creep
Thread Starter
 
wmgreene85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: oakland, ca
Bikes: raleigh macaframa, motobecane record
Posts: 274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
yes they are loose.
wmgreene85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-10, 02:59 PM   #10
wmgreene85
Mission Creep
Thread Starter
 
wmgreene85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: oakland, ca
Bikes: raleigh macaframa, motobecane record
Posts: 274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kringle View Post
ovalized headtube?
Im wondering if this, or an ovalized fork tube (dont know what you call it, "crown race?") could be the issue. It seems as if the play is coming from the fit not being snug enough. Im finding out that no matter how much I pinch the headset with the compression cap, there is still play.
wmgreene85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-10, 06:24 AM   #11
norskagent
car dodger
 
norskagent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: garner/raleigh nc
Bikes:
Posts: 3,365
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Can you move the pressed in cups by hand?
__________________
1989 Schwinn Paramount OS
1980 Mclean/Silk Hope Sport Touring
1983 Bianchi pista
1976 Fuji Feather track
1979 raleigh track
"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
norskagent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-10, 06:53 AM   #12
DaveSSS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Two LOOK 585s, one KG461
Posts: 4,987
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Clamping the front brake and rocking the bike to feel for play does not work with modern integrated headsets, or any other type using angular contact cartridge bearings. As others have noted, be sure the stem is not clamped to the steerer and there is a small gap between top cap and the steerer. It the top cap touches the steerer, it's impossible to adjust the bearing play. Another possible problem is the headset top section or conical spacer touching the head tube. Most headsets have several .25mm shim washers that can be added to insure that there is a small gap between the two.

Tighten the top cap enough to create some additional drag as the fork is turned, then back off the tightness, by 1/8 turn. Then clamp the stem to the steerer and go for a test ride. If the headset is too tight, the front wheel will not readily self-center after a turn.
DaveSSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-10, 12:13 PM   #13
BCRider
Senior Member
 
BCRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
Posts: 5,456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
There shouldn't be any play of course.

If it's a cup and cone setup first check to be sure that you have the bearing cages installed the right way. On another thread one poster mentioned that he rode for a few weeks with lots of play due to the cage being in the wrong way so that the ball bearings were not contacting both races. How it felt must have been something to expeirence. A hint that this may be the case is that the rotational resistance becomes very high with just a little preload. On good bearings and where everything is assembled in the correct order there should be small gaps everywhere and ONLY the bearing balls are in contact with anything. When it's like that you should have quite a range of preload adjustment between the initial loss of play and getting to where the rotational resistance from the preload is too high for good performance. This double checking for a sudden build up of resistance applies to cartridge style headsets. As noted some require playing with a shim stack to get shields to sit close to but not touch the cup rims.
BCRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:15 PM.