Normal for cassette to have a smidgen of play?
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Normal for cassette to have a smidgen of play?
Hi
I noticed that my SRAM PG950 9-speed cassette is a smidgen loose on my Mavic 317 wheel. I mean barely loose.
Is this normal?
Thanks
I noticed that my SRAM PG950 9-speed cassette is a smidgen loose on my Mavic 317 wheel. I mean barely loose.
Is this normal?
Thanks
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You could put a thin spacer behind the cassette to firm it up. I wouldn't want any play. You did tighten to spec I assume...
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I should have added I have another Mavic 117 wheelset with a Shimano HG080 SLX cassette and have the exact amount of play. This setup came with the bike from the LBS and I haven't touched the cassette.
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Just to be sure, you could check if the locknut of the cassette says SRAM, etc.
I've got some disassembled Shimano and SRAM cassettes around and when I mix up the locknuts the results are less than stellar. Could it be an LBS mix-up maybe?
I've got some disassembled Shimano and SRAM cassettes around and when I mix up the locknuts the results are less than stellar. Could it be an LBS mix-up maybe?
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Can you rock the freehub body without the cassette? Or is it just cassette able to move a bit on the freehub body?
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Slight play in the freehub's bearings is normal, unlike the other bearings on a bike they're usually adjusted with internal shims. Play in the cassette itself is not.
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I think i heard somewhere that Mavic wheels require a spacer before you slide the cassette on. This was the case with my mavic cosmos.
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The definitive test for whether there's any play in the cassette/body fit vs the freehub body/hub is to gently pry two sprockets apart with a tire lever, spoon or screwdriver. There shouldn't be any play at all, and the sprockets should be tightly packed under decent compression. Otherwise they'll move a bit under load and beat up the freehub body pretty badly.
It's analogous to a threadless headset, the cassette should extend slightly beyond the freehub body so the lockring compresses it rather than bottoming out against the freehub. If necessary add a spacer behind the cassette to correct the fit. This is commonly required on Mavic hubs.
It's analogous to a threadless headset, the cassette should extend slightly beyond the freehub body so the lockring compresses it rather than bottoming out against the freehub. If necessary add a spacer behind the cassette to correct the fit. This is commonly required on Mavic hubs.
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Many Mavic hubs require a 2 mm Mavic spacer behind the cassette because Mavic cassettes are 2mm wider than Shimano or Sram cassettes.
All cassettes need to be tightened to specs. Loose cogs can damage the freehub splines.
All cassettes need to be tightened to specs. Loose cogs can damage the freehub splines.
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