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  1. #1
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    Ergo brakes repair cheapest place to get the parts?

    So far brandford and europe something bikes, anybody knows another place?

    And, which are the chances that the index has problems? so far i don't see anything wrong with the indexing but for sure i need the carrier and the springs...

    anybody have an idea? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Listen to me powers2b's Avatar
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    I have no idea what you are talking about.
    So I am going to go look for the bunny with the pancake on it's head.

    Enjoy
    Quote Originally Posted by SBFixed View Post
    You're a dick, if your bike gets stolen I hope that you don't get a thread.

  3. #3
    Listen to me powers2b's Avatar
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    There you go.

    Enjoy
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    Quote Originally Posted by SBFixed View Post
    You're a dick, if your bike gets stolen I hope that you don't get a thread.

  4. #4
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    love you both

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
    So far brandford and europe something bikes, anybody knows another place?

    And, which are the chances that the index has problems? so far i don't see anything wrong with the indexing but for sure i need the carrier and the springs...

    anybody have an idea? Thanks.
    You probably want a new thumb button return spring too, since they start to feel weak about the same time you loose the distinct clicks when moving to a larger cog. Everything else seems to last forever.

  6. #6
    ride, paint, ride simplify's Avatar
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    I was very happy with Branfordbike, because no one beat their prices (that I found) and, maybe more importantly, they're wonderful to work with. They answer emails within hours, and will be happy to help you make sure you're ordering the correct parts.

    Just curious--if you haven't had any problems with indexing, how can you tell that the carrier and g-springs are due for replacement? In other words, what's it doing wrong?
    No car. No TV. Three bikes.

  7. #7
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    I have to adjust the tensioning several times while riding for example, I noticed yesterday (it happened a few weeks also) after i changed the jokey wheels (trying to nail the problem, cable retensioned also) that to go from the 1st gear to the second gear that it didnt want to shift, it moved just a little bit, then i moved the lever a little bit and shifted to the second gear.

    This morning while riding i noticed that suddenly the drive train got noisy, tried to adjust using the barrels, tested shifting all the way up and i lost the biggest cog. Stopped, shifted all the way down and then up again and the thing worked fine, after like 30 minutes the drive train got noisy again. Since im hearing all the clicks and looks like the indexing comes back to normal I'm assuming the indexing is not one of the ones that has a problem, im preying to tell you the truth because the darn piece is like 50 bucks.

    The other thing i noticed today is that the lever is not hidden behind the brake lever, but is off maybe a few mm. A few minutes ago testing i noticed a delay in the shiifting and i have to move the lever way too much to get it to shift. And that is a symptom of the springs going bad and the carrier maybe broken. (from what i have read).

    If you have more suggestions go ahead

  8. #8
    ride, paint, ride simplify's Avatar
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    Okay, yes. I was confused when you said you didn't see a problem with the indexing, but I see what you mean now. What you're describing does sound like an overhaul and some new parts are needed. But first, I have to ask, did you check your cables and housing to be sure that they are moving freely? Make sure there's no binding, that they're not gummed up or frayed. That's a much easier fix.

    If the cables are fine, then you're on the right track with the overhaul. Have you seen the instructional videos on YouTube? They help a lot. If you can be without the bike for a few days, you can take it apart and diagnose the problem more specifically before you order parts (Branford ships very quickly). Most likely it's going to be g-springs and the carrier, especially if you have the Record Ergo shifters with that stupid plastic spring carrier. They call it carbon, but trust me, it's plastic. Get the alloy one to replace it.
    No car. No TV. Three bikes.

  9. #9
    cs1
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    I second the cables. Ergo parts aren't really expensive to start. How much can you save by shopping? I usually just order mine from my LBS. Springs are a whopping $5. I'm not spending an afternoon online to save $1.

    Good luck on the rebuild.
    1999 Waterford RSE-11, 1995 Waterford 1200, 1989 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
    1989 Raleigh Technium, 1989 Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Specialized Rockhopper
    1984 Specialized Stumpjumper, 1986 Specialized Stumpjumper and just way too many projects to list.

  10. #10
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    The cables are new and I was getting the problem in my old bike before moving the parts to the new one. Yesterday I re tensioned the rd and i checked the cables and all looks ok. Asked about the indexing piece because thats the most expensive one hehehe

    LBSs in here suck big time so i doubt i'll find the parts but i'll call to a couple of places anyways. My issue is that if i have to wait 4 days with the lbs, i rather just go and order the things online and save a couple of bucks. If the guys have the parts probably i'll buy them from the lbs only because of timing.

    Yes i looked at the videos already and doesn't look that hard... can i use lithium white grease with this things or any cycling grease lube will do ok? Dont want to get the campagnolo, seems like overkill for me

    Yes i believe the piece is cheap arss plastic or some hard resin thing, for those things nothing like plain metal or AL.

    Thanks.

  11. #11
    ride, paint, ride simplify's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
    Yes i looked at the videos already and doesn't look that hard... can i use lithium white grease with this things or any cycling grease lube will do ok? Dont want to get the campagnolo, seems like overkill for me
    Yep, you don't need Campy grease. It should be good grease that will stay put without being too stiff or getting gummy, but you know that already.

    BF user DaveSSS wrote out some super-detailed instructions for the process, I have the file for that if you'd like to have it (I'm sure Dave wouldn't mind, he shares his knowledge very generously here). Just send me a PM with your email address and I'll scrounge that up for you. It's helpful to take pictures as you go along, just as a backup in case there might be details that you can't see clearly in the videos.

    Good luck and have fun with the process, it's very gratifying to get it done!
    No car. No TV. Three bikes.

  12. #12
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    Hey thanks... i got the parts (got lucky and a shop had some of the stuff), i got a little bit more of what i needed anyways, got the metallic carrier, the g springs, the thumb return button, the coil spring and the finger return lever return spring, now i need to check out my tools. Im a darn mess and who knows where the stuff is, the only tools i keep safe are the Allen tools and the BB / cassette ones, all the other stuff is moving around the house.

    I'll use the park kind'a green grease but im really tempted to use the lithium one but it might be too thick for the job?

    I'll Pm...

    Thanks
    Last edited by ultraman6970; 06-03-10 at 06:45 PM.

  13. #13
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    Ok got this thing working, Had 2 prings already worn out but the carrier looked still fine, i replaced it anyways but i have a quick question... what could happen if the tension in the coil spring is not enough?? Just wondering that because looks like critical.

    THanks

  14. #14
    ride, paint, ride simplify's Avatar
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    As I understand it, the flat coil is just a "counterforce" spring to make shifting easier. So if it's undertensioned, it'll just be harder to shift with the finger lever. Experts, correct me if I'm wrong on that.
    No car. No TV. Three bikes.

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