Gear Combo Guru
Join Date: May 2007
Bikes: road, commuter/tourer, hardtail MTB, touring tandem, cargo, folder
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I run this setup quite successfully. The brake cable routing is a problem, but I solved it by filing away a small bit of the brake hood so that the cable could exit at a better angle, and using a flexible noodle - the noodles that are usually used for V-brakes and make a 90-degree bend are available in other bends, and also a flexible version. The one below is made by Jagwire, and is available at Amazon here
, or from your LBS. This handles the sharp turn away from the brake hood, and then standard housing can be used for the rest.
After a few months, the cable friction still became too much for the brake to spring back open fully. Since the brakes are V-brakes and cantilevers, I removed the brake and inserted the pin in the tighter-tension hole. The lever now requires a firmer grip, but springs back without a problem.
My setup involves a set of Easton Delta Force, aluminium bullhorn bars. A Tektro V-brake compatible drop-bar lever to operate my front V-brake on the left-hand side, and a Shimano STI lever to operate a rear cantilever brake and 10-speed cassette on the right hand side, plus a down-tube shifter to control the front derailleur. I love this setup on my commuter bike because it keeps me reasonably high so that I have decent visibility, the bars are narrow so that I can squeeze up the inside of cars at the lights, and I have my hands in a comfortable position on the bull horns with full control of the rear derailleur and powerful braking at my fingertips at all times (riding on the hoods with drop bars would result in a similar position, but I find braking power to be compromised in that position). I top this all off with one right-hand interruptor lever that I use to hold the bike still while waiting at lights, but my hands are not normally in this position when I'm actually riding - they are nearly always on the horns.
Last edited by Chris_W; 06-07-10 at 01:21 AM.