Motobetird

My LBS can cut the fork but not re-thread it. I need to take off 22mm which is all of the current threading pictured. What tool is used to groove the threads? I've got a pic of what I am talking about. I need to scout out somebody to thread/ groove this fork with the proper training and tools. Any suggestions on where to start? Thanks in advance.

BCRider

Find another bike shop that can do the re-threading and extend the keyway or find another fork that is already the right length.

It's not typically something you can do at home to either do the threading OR cut the keyway without a full on shop. And if you did have the tools and skills you wouldn't need to be asking us if it's possible or what to use. And given that state of affairs this is not a good place to be trying to learn such things.

cny-bikeman

Agreed - the die/tool used to cut threads is quite expensive - more than a new fork. In fact if it's an inexpensive fork you might consider a chrome replacement.

Motobetird

I got the fork for $110 on ebay. Its a Serrota F1 Carbon. I live in a smaller town with 2 bike shops, both of which can not perform this. My idea was if I knew what needed done, I could contact a local machine shop and have them do it. I was hoping to get this on today but I guess I will have to wait until I can get to another shop.

furballi

Use a 1" spacer. A little higher stem should do no harm to bike or rider.

JTGraphics

Do you really need more threads to put it together?
If you do a machine shop can do this for you if you don't have the tools.
Threading isn't a problem the groove if needed may need a machine shop but it looks like you may have just enough threading and groove to put it together as is.

Motobetird

I considered that. Didn't want to go that route, but it just may work until I can conveniently go to a shop an hour+ away.

BCRider

If you have to get a machine shop to do it for you and unless one of the guys does it as a Friday evening "beer special" you're looking at around the same $110 to have the work done. This is because the dies used for that size of thread are not a standard size outside of the bicycle industry that would be found in most machine shops. So it's not going to be a simple job.

Your best bet would be to ship the fork to an LBS in the "big city" nearby that has the tools to do this job. By the time you pay them something like $30 to $40 and pay for shipping you'll likely be back up in cost to near the cost of the fork in the first place. But that's going to be the best option in the end.

Motobetird

There is not enough room. The current threading is about 15mm and I need to take off 22mm. I know threading wouldn't be an issue for some one with a tap. The groove is what I was concerned about. What tool would I tell a machine shop to use? I would not cut the steerer tube, instead have those guys use whats there as a guide and just extend the threading.

Motobetird

If that is the case then yes I will contact a "Big City" bike shop as you say and ask them to perform the procedure.

HillRider

Is the groove needed? A lot of threaded forks don't have one and you can find tab-less washers that won't require the groove. All the groove does is make adjusting the headset a little easier but that's not worth the trouble. Then perhaps extending the threading is a more straight forward job.

Another possibility, and maybe a better one, is to buy a threadless fork and matching headset and stem. That way you can have the steerer any length you require. The cost may not be too much more than modifying the fork you have and you coluld possibly sell it to recover some of the difference.

Motobetird

I would go threadless but I I just bought a dura ace threaded headset...

HillRider

Sell it and the fork as a package deal.

Motobetird

Bingo. +1. And thank you. That is the solution I was searching for!

BCRider

That would likely be your best bet. You would need to extend the keyway to allow the anti-rotation washer to sit down against the upper bearing cup but overall at least this is a fix that you can do yourself.

To extend the keyway some CAREFUL work with a Dremel and the right cutting bit could fix this right up. From there you could play with how far you can trim the thread and still fit the top cap on correctly to reduce the spacer down to the minimal amount you could get away with. LIkely if you're looking to chop 22 mm off you should be able to get it down to around a 10'ish mm spacer.

BCRider

But you've still got the issue with the thread not being long enough. So you're still where you started unless you use a spacer to make all this work.

Motobetird

As you mentioned earlier a 1" tap is not normal and I will make a few calls to get prices. If I can not find any body to thread this I will go with spacers.

BCRider

It's actualy a 1 inch die, not a tap. And you'll need to measure the thread pitch and ask about that. 1 inch taps and dies are common enough but just not in the thread pitch needed for bicycle applications. Even in the bicycle world there's a couple of different thread pitches used on threaded steerers. So you'll need to carefully count the number of thread crests in a 1/2 inch and then double it for the true thread pitch.

Motobetird

I wish I read that last post before calling the shop. What I gathered from my one phone call is that 1" dyes are common, and even more common most places are using lathes to do all threading. However, my 28 threads per inch is very uncommon for automotive/ any popular machining industry. The person I spoke with was very helpful and doubtful that I will find somebody in this area with that dye. So, looks like it's spacer city.

wesmamyke

Where are you located? This is a pretty common tool for real bike shops to have. Link to the tool/die in question: https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...Threading-Sets

This is probably the die for that fork: https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=PA-606

While I'm sure a machine shop could duplicate the threads, it's not really practical. It would cost you the same to ship it across the country and have a real shop thread it for you.

Depending on the headtube/headset stack height you could also just cut the threads off and use a 1" threadless stem. I ran a 1 1/8" fork like that for a long time, it works fine.

Edit: It doesn't sound like spacers are going to work for you. You can't just add spacers if the adjusting cup can't thread down all the way. A picture of the frame with the fork or some measurements would answer that question.

BCRider

Wesmamyke, he's only got two local bike shops and neither has the tooling needed.

FBinNY 

If you're willing to ship it to New York, I can cut & thread the fork for $25.00 plus return shipping. If you want a keyway, which helps prevent headsets from loosening over time, add another $10.00. If interested PM me your phone number, & I'll call you to discuss arrangements.

Motobetird

Upon inspection spacers will not work. The top race or whatever it is called will not thread down. A bike shop 100 miles away said they will do it for $40+25 shipping. I will go to a big city within the month, I will just keep riding my piece of junk chromo fork until then . Unless FBinNY wan'ts to come down a tiny bit on his price... PM sent by the way but I'm not 100% sure if I want to ship this thing to NY, will take 2 weeks to get it back at the earliest.... oh and I am located in Texas. I like to call my location BFD, butt fu$% district.

Mr IGH

Forget the groove, just file the numb off of the washers. Most high end custom frames never had a groove. It's not need, esp with a high end headset. My LBS extended threads for $20, in Chicago, not exactly a low cost area.

BCRider

I guess it's been a while since myself or some others here have dealt with a threaded stem install. My bad for not remembering that the top bearing cup has to be able to thread down all the way and into place. So you're right, it'll have to wait until you make it around to the Big City.

And I wouldn't be asking FB' to lower his price. I gather he's a bike shop operator or hired shop mechanic. It would be the shop that would be doing the work and they have to charge what they charge to do the job to keep the doors open and lights on.

I know we all want these things to happen NOW but in this case a bit of patience sounds like it'll be rewarded.