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  1. #1
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    Can anyone spot why I would have a lump at the end of these Campy Ergo hoods?

    I could have them installed too high, or maybe the FSA Omega bars aren't Ergo friendly? There is a lump that digs into my palms that shouldn't be there. It was also there before the tape went on. I am guessing the bars are not shaped right for the new style levers?


    Last edited by AndyK; 06-24-10 at 05:34 PM.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Torchy McFlux's Avatar
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    You've mounted them kind of high. I'd slide them down the curve so the tips of the lever blades are more even with the short flat sections of the drops. Like 2cm.

  3. #3
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    The bump is not large. If the back end of the ergo body is not tight against the bar, then it's a bar problem that you can't avoid.

    You can do as I already told you and apply some thin foam rubber right behind the brake hood to smooth the transition. With the old ergo levers, I used several pieces of thin foam rubber at differnt locations to minimize the feel of the cables and make for a smooth transition from the bar to the brake hood. This stuff works great. I apply it before the bar tape and use electrical tape the hold it in place, if necesary.

    http://www.antonline.com/p_02352-GP_339485.htm

    How you tape the bars also makes a difference. Some people seem to have a problem figuring out how to go around the ergo body. You wrap in the opposite direction that I do, but that should not be an issue. As long as you wrap from the ends toward the center.

    Some bar tapes don't lay as flat as others. The PRO tape in my photo is much more lumpy than Deda.

    [IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/2hropat.jpg[/IMG]
    Last edited by DaveSSS; 06-24-10 at 06:08 PM.

  4. #4
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    I'll pull the tape off, and see if moving the levers down on the bar, then rotating the bar up a bit to compensate makes a difference.

    I'd rather not have to deal with layers of foam Dave (I never got your response message, if you sent me one). But that sounds like a good idea, if all else fails.

    Usually, the cork tape itself is thick enough to make up for slight differences in height between hoods and the bar. I may also try my Deda Newton deep bars, maybe the Ergo levers will conform to them a little smoother?
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  5. #5
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    its campagnolo, your shifter hoods are just doing that to be different
    Professional mechanic for 9 years

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Torchy McFlux View Post
    You've mounted them kind of high. I'd slide them down the curve so the tips of the lever blades are more even with the short flat sections of the drops. Like 2cm.
    Agree, those brifters are way too high

  7. #7
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    They're too high on the bar for my taste but watching the televised tours I've noticed that a lot of the pros' are set that way.

  8. #8
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    Those who voted "too high" were right. When I lower the brifters a few centimeters, the hood flattens out and doesn't bulge where it hits the bars. Problem is, I may have to ditch the FSA Omega bars because when the brifters get lower, they slope down making the transition from bars to hood slope down. I would have to rotate the bars up, making the drops too angled.

    Not to mention my housings were perfect, and moving the brifters disturbs the perfectness!
    '02 De Rosa Planet
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  9. #9
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    Try moving the ergo body down just 5mm, not 2cm. They are not mounted way too high.

    Using the brake lever as a reference point is way out of date. I never look at that at all. I get the bar angle where I want it first, then adjust the area of the brake hood, where my palm rests, to be horizontal or angled up just a few degrees. 5mm makes the difference between too high and too low.

    Look at the picture that I posted. The stem is horizontal, for reference. The bars are Easton EC90 - SLX3.
    Last edited by DaveSSS; 06-25-10 at 10:59 AM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member vettefrc2000's Avatar
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    The FSA Omega bars are confounding the position.

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