changing chainring and gear adjustment?
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changing chainring and gear adjustment?
Hi,
I'm getting a 36T 116 BCD chainring in the mail today to replace the 42 chainring on my double. Do you think I'll be able to ride it as is or do you think I'll have to take it to the bike shop for a gear adjustment.
I'm getting a 36T 116 BCD chainring in the mail today to replace the 42 chainring on my double. Do you think I'll be able to ride it as is or do you think I'll have to take it to the bike shop for a gear adjustment.
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Originally Posted by rj987652003
Hi,
I'm getting a 36T 116 BCD chainring in the mail today to replace the 42 chainring on my double. Do you think I'll be able to ride it as is or do you think I'll have to take it to the bike shop for a gear adjustment.
I'm getting a 36T 116 BCD chainring in the mail today to replace the 42 chainring on my double. Do you think I'll be able to ride it as is or do you think I'll have to take it to the bike shop for a gear adjustment.
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How big is your outer ring? If it is a 52, you may have to upshift the front derailleur a little more slowly and carefully. Also, in the small-small combinations, your chain will sag a bit if your derailleur cannot take up the additional slack. Neither of these problems requires any derailleur adjustment, other than perhaps tightening the pivot positioning screw, to rotate an older derailleur clockwise (downward and backward, thereby increasing chain tension).
I used to gear my Nishiki 50-47 / 14-16-18-20-23 (half-step), which I changed to 50-42 / 14-23 (Alpine or 1.5-step) on days I planned to ride through the hills of west-central Los Angeles or Malibu/Topanga. The gearing change entailed simply swapping the inner chainring, a 5-minute operation.
I used to gear my Nishiki 50-47 / 14-16-18-20-23 (half-step), which I changed to 50-42 / 14-23 (Alpine or 1.5-step) on days I planned to ride through the hills of west-central Los Angeles or Malibu/Topanga. The gearing change entailed simply swapping the inner chainring, a 5-minute operation.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Originally Posted by John E
How big is your outer ring? If it is a 52, you may have to upshift the front derailleur a little more slowly and carefully. Also, in the small-small combinations, your chain will sag a bit if your derailleur cannot take up the additional slack. Neither of these problems requires any derailleur adjustment, other than perhaps tightening the pivot positioning screw, to rotate an older derailleur clockwise (downward and backward, thereby increasing chain tension).
I used to gear my Nishiki 50-47 / 14-16-18-20-23 (half-step), which I changed to 50-42 / 14-23 (Alpine or 1.5-step) on days I planned to ride through the hills of west-central Los Angeles or Malibu/Topanga. The gearing change entailed simply swapping the inner chainring, a 5-minute operation.
I used to gear my Nishiki 50-47 / 14-16-18-20-23 (half-step), which I changed to 50-42 / 14-23 (Alpine or 1.5-step) on days I planned to ride through the hills of west-central Los Angeles or Malibu/Topanga. The gearing change entailed simply swapping the inner chainring, a 5-minute operation.