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  1. #1
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    Stupid question about tire direction

    I bought a new set of slick tires for my mountain bike. After I installed both of them, I noticed a direction arrow. It was pointed in the direction different from the rotation of the tire. I took the tire off, turned it around, and now both arrows are pointing toward the front of the bike when at the top of the rotations. Is that correct?

    Also, the tread looks like this:

    (back of the bike) >>>> (front of the bike)

    Again, sorry for the stupid question, the tires no installation information on them.

  2. #2
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    yes, should be correct now.

  3. #3
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    Another newbie here. I did the same thing. Bought a 26" 1.5 Armadillo to replace the big thick knobby mountain bike tire on the commuter bike I just bought off of Craigslist. After proudly examining my first ever bike/intertube change in install, I noticed the tread going this way <<<<<. I rode it to work this morning and I'm not sure that it would make much of a difference. I might change it around tonight though because it's still bothering me LOL.

  4. #4
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    @roomservicetaco, thank you.

    @Posted, I am sure I wouldn't notice the difference. They would ride better than my MTB tires, and that would be enough. How was your ride, compared to riding on knobby tires?

  5. #5
    Gears? CliftonGK1's Avatar
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    A couple weekends ago my ride partner was complaining about "feeling slow", and at one of our stops I noticed that her rear tire (Pasela TG, with similar chevron tread pattern to the OP's) was on backwards. I told her that was probably what was killing her speed.

    Aside from lending itself to bad jokes, having a road tire on backwards isn't going to do much else.
    "I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
    - Mandi M.

  6. #6
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    I had some contis that wanted the front facing forward >>>, and the rear facing back <<<. Makes you wonder about all this. bk

  7. #7
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    The chevrons pointed to the front will reduce the chance of aquaplaning on wet roads as the grooves pushes the water sideways as the bike rolls forward. Since the chance of aquaplaning with narrow bike tires is 0%. it doesnt make much difference which way the tire goes. There is some belief the treads facing the other way, provide more traction at the back in mud or sand, but I dont know of any measuements taken to back this up.

  8. #8
    Senior Member snafu21's Avatar
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    Pare off the direction arrow with a craft knife and stick it on the proper way round.


    ~~~~


    The MTB boys often put the front tyre on the 'wrong' way around, - they figure it helps with braking if it's got a chevron type tread.
    - every mile of road has two miles of ditch -

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewP View Post
    The chevrons pointed to the front will reduce the chance of aquaplaning on wet roads as the grooves pushes the water sideways as the bike rolls forward. Since the chance of aquaplaning with narrow bike tires is 0%. it doesnt make much difference which way the tire goes. There is some belief the treads facing the other way, provide more traction at the back in mud or sand, but I dont know of any measuements taken to back this up.
    It's called marketing. I prefer 100% slick, but the vendors think that slicks are visually boring.

  10. #10
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    I prefer 100% slick, but the vendors think that slicks are visually boring.
    I'm old enough to remember when we had no slicks. All bike tires had a small tread, usually some kind of herringbone pattern. Avocet was the first company I remember to make slicks. I remember reading in a magazine where they put slicks on and tried sprinting uphill on wet roads. Then Specialized brought out their slicks and I think those are the first ones that I used.

  11. #11
    Asi
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    Bikes do not aquaplane for several reasons: the speed is not enough, the contact patch is too small, and too thin, and the profile of the tire is round not square like a car is. (on wet condition is more slippery, no question about it but this is not aquaplaning, it's just the reduced friction coefficient on wet road)

    For road tread-less is best (but a light tread would make no difference also)

    The thread design comes into play on loose terrain like offroad dirt/gravel/mud where a large 3" tire with some serious knobs is useful.

    A light tread design on a road tire can be useful for not so clean roads (those with a lot of dust) but would make such a small difference that is hard to quantify.

    For me it didn't make no real difference. More important is the age of the rubber and rubber quality (like I had some Rubena 3$ tires and beside the fact that it was ripping the bead in the first week, it had a nice thread design, yet it was slippery like I was on ice. Now I have continental grand prix4000 and despite the fact that is treadles its grip is excellent)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by snafu21 View Post
    Pare off the direction arrow with a craft knife and stick it on the proper way round.
    Recommend the same thing when you pump it up to the wrong pressure? Just change the numbers and your golden!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobike_moexcite View Post
    Recommend the same thing when you pump it up to the wrong pressure? Just change the numbers and your golden!
    Or set the circumference calibration in your computer to a larger number and watch your speed and distance increase.

  14. #14
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    mount tires with label on the right side, rotation will be correct.

  15. #15
    Senior Member snafu21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roberth33tiger View Post
    mount tires with label on the right side, rotation will be correct.
    .. unless they are Conti Sport Contacts which have the same markings on both side.
    Last edited by snafu21; 06-26-10 at 04:13 AM.
    - every mile of road has two miles of ditch -

  16. #16
    Senior Member snafu21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobike_moexcite View Post
    Recommend the same thing when you pump it up to the wrong pressure? Just change the numbers and your golden!
    What do you mean, change my golden?
    Last edited by snafu21; 06-26-10 at 04:13 AM.
    - every mile of road has two miles of ditch -

  17. #17
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    snafu21, you beat me to it.
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  18. #18
    Used to be Conspiratemus
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    I didn't get it at all at first. I went "Hunh?" until Noglider sharpened the point for me. Duh...
    "I did not know that!" -- J. Carson

  19. #19
    Senior Member snafu21's Avatar
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    Just off to check my tyres on the right way round. I'm quite capable of putting them on inside out.
    - every mile of road has two miles of ditch -

  20. #20
    Kip
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    Although I usually mounted my tires correctly I never thought it made much difference until a ride last year. I had Bontrager 700 x 35 Select K tires mounted on my Trek 520 touring bike. As it was winter I had fenders installed on the bike. Snow had been on the ground for 3-4 weeks previously but was gone when I started an 80 mile ride. The road shoulder was muddy with a real fine, silty mud. About 15 miles into the ride I had a three mile descent. When I got to the bottom the bike felt like it had brakes on. After checking it over I realized that the front tire was mounted backwards, and as a result mud was impacted on the underside of the fender. I scraped off as much as I could and then turned the wheel around. Since it was the front, of course, I didn't need to dismount/remount the tire. The ride was fine from then on with no more build up of mud. I haven't mounted a tire the wrong way since.

  21. #21
    Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped. BarracksSi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snafu21 View Post
    The MTB boys often put the front tyre on the 'wrong' way around, - they figure it helps with braking if it's got a chevron type tread.
    Sounds good in theory, but I'd think that since the braking forces actually push "forward" against the ground, they'd want the chevrons to dig at the dirt like a "V" scoop instead of a plow. What's the actual premise (I'm sure it's been debated endlessly, too..)?

    @Kip - empirical evidence relevant to the question? What are you thinking?? You'll kill the thread!

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