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Thread: Braze-ons

  1. #1
    Jive Turkey likeacastshadow's Avatar
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    Braze-ons

    I was wondering if it is possible to make rear rack braze-ons after the bike is all finished and painted and such, and if so, how? I have a 2003 (I think) Lemond Poprad with eyelets but no braze-ons. It is Reynolds 853 so that means steel. I searched the archives to no avail, could anyone help me out?

  2. #2
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    Installing brazeons means a repaint, you use a torch with 5000+ degree tip. There are rubber coated steel clamps for rack installation that might work for you.
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  3. #3
    Jive Turkey likeacastshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
    Installing brazeons means a repaint, you use a torch with 5000+ degree tip. There are rubber coated steel clamps for rack installation that might work for you.
    How much would an installation, minus the repaint, be?

    Are there links to a site describing the process? I have a torch handy, what else would I need?

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    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by likeacastshadow
    I have a torch handy, what else would I need?
    The know-how to use it?

  5. #5
    Jive Turkey likeacastshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sydney
    The know-how to use it?
    Done. I meant like what kind of solder to use, and where to get the parts.

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    Senior Member larue's Avatar
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    well you could always save time and look for a rack that doesn't require braze ons.
    Leave your treadmill power trip behind.

  7. #7
    sch
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    Google search on "bicycle framebuilder supplies" gave a bunch of hits some of
    which might be useful. Search on framebuilders would reference some of those
    as well. If you are not sure what kind of solder to use it might be best to not
    muck up the frame with learn as you go techniques especially as it is unnecessary. Silver solder or brass would be the materials of choice if you find the bits and
    want to learn how to attach and then how to repaint frames. Might be better to practice on readily available junker frames first since the cost of the bits you
    want to solder on is peanuts. Steve

  8. #8
    Jive Turkey likeacastshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sch
    Google search on "bicycle framebuilder supplies" gave a bunch of hits some of
    which might be useful. Search on framebuilders would reference some of those
    as well. If you are not sure what kind of solder to use it might be best to not
    muck up the frame with learn as you go techniques especially as it is unnecessary. Silver solder or brass would be the materials of choice if you find the bits and
    want to learn how to attach and then how to repaint frames. Might be better to practice on readily available junker frames first since the cost of the bits you
    want to solder on is peanuts. Steve
    Thanks, Steve. I am reading some of those websites now. I think that about answers my question. Would a local shop be able to do this and not screw it up?

  9. #9
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    Unlikely. We have one of the older shops, three actually, and only the boss and I have torch time and even then it takes a rare case for us to break them out to braze up on something (They are personal not shop equipment) 853 is some thin stuff and you need to be careful with the heat or you end up with a really big flute.
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    Senior Member TechJD's Avatar
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    brazeing take more than a regular torch it has to have a 2ed tank of O2 or something
    to make it hoter
    and then you need braze rods
    and some experaince useing them or you will just make a big mess
    79 Schwinn Continental II
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  11. #11
    Jive Turkey likeacastshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
    Unlikely. We have one of the older shops, three actually, and only the boss and I have torch time and even then it takes a rare case for us to break them out to braze up on something (They are personal not shop equipment) 853 is some thin stuff and you need to be careful with the heat or you end up with a really big flute.
    That would narrow down my options a bit then. I don't think I trust myself doing this for the first time on an expensive bike, much less my own. On one of the clamps you mentioned previously, 1) where does it attach, and 2) are they prone to shaking loose with riding? Seems to me like it is a sketchy deal. Also, how much do they run?

  12. #12
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    When you buy your rack, most of them will include a pair or two of "P" clamps. Most bike shops will have a drawer full of them too.

  13. #13
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    WHat Retro grouch said. It is a steel band with a screw thru it and the rack. Onve you put it on there it is not coming off with out some tools.
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  14. #14
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
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    Not wanting to damage my paint, I use rubber-coated clamps to hold the Blackburn MTN rack on my Schwinn. I positioned them on the seat stays so that the one on the right rests on the chain hanger and cannot slip downward.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
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    The brazing is fairly trivial, you can get the brazeons here: http://store.airbomb.com/ba/asp/ic.F...b/Itemdesc.htm, and you can use silver rod/paste, which you can get here: http://www.ramweldingsupply.com/prod...cic?c=4#NAV_82. the silver doesn't need such a high heat. Simple $35 MAPP torch will do just fine, but you will certainly mess up the paint job big time. Some brazing basic can be found here: http://www.handyharmancanada.com/The...ents.htm#Index. Simple old clamps from a hardware store with cut piece of innertube underneath and little improvisation with couple of parts from the hardware store will get you there just fine, or you can buy rubber coated/plastic coated clamps as well here: http://www.mcmaster.com/.

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