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  1. #26
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    There are some (rare) bullhorn shaped bars with the right dimensions, typically sold as integrated bar end mtb bars (but many bars sold as such are thinner toward the front).
    Many bar ends are 22.2mm if you don't mind your bullhorns not being one piece.

    I don't think I would care for that myself, but bar ends are cheap if you want to try it out.

    If you haven't used drops you should try them out. At least ride one of the road bikes at your LBS. Better yet barrow or rent one that you can ride for a couple days.

    Drops may or may not suit you, and would call for either a new bike or a fair amount of new equipment.

    You're the only one who can decide if drop bars, brifters, and the whole shabang are right for you.
    Bar ends and alternative handlebars compatible with your current components will be cheaper, and in this case I'd say it won't hurt anything to experiment.
    Quote Originally Posted by sprockets View Post
    I talk to myself regularly - crazy is the technical term I believe. The only time I shut up is when I'm riding. (that's the best time to listen to all those voices in your head :D )

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightShift
    Bar ends and alternative handlebars compatible with your current components will be cheaper,
    Yeah, that's what I was thinking but;
    Quote Originally Posted by Raiden View Post
    I think you've outgrown your hybrid and you're looking for something with a more aggressive posture- a road bike (either flat- or drop-barred). Cost may also be an issue- STI shifters (and all of the rest of the parts needed) from a shop, plus the labor to swap it all over, costs a small fortune in comparison to the price of the hybrid you're riding.
    - is the basic message I'm getting. I've looked at loads of retailers, to properly do what I really want would cost perhaps 1/3rd or more the value of the bike.

    Maybe I should just put this project asside and save the money for now. Been kinda currious about fixxies for a while now...

    [edit]
    So these are what you're all talking about. http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/src/froog...lack-18606.htm Hmmm... or http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/src/froog...lack-14280.htm maybe, maybe. I guess those Origin8 bolt on drops are strictly for the drop possition (no hoods). Isn't 250g a bit on the clunky side for something that's just going on the end of the bar? It's the same weight as the cheapest drops (which are cheaper).
    Last edited by MarkN; 07-05-10 at 11:25 AM.

  3. #28
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    Yeah, the Origin8 drops are kinda heavy. Drop bars are pretty cheap and will be lighter, but you would have to have compatible brakes and shifters.

    The drop bar ends don't include a hood position (but why no one makes something like that is beyond me), but you can attach falsies (clamp and hood without lever; typically salvaged from broken parts bin), or use (dirt cheap) old non aero road brake levers to make you're own interuptor levers (they used a large barrel shaped cable end; the cable housing can go right where the old cable end would).

    Try a good road bike. Find out if drops are what you really want.

    If you want a new road bike, decide what you want to do with the hybrid:
    Sell it; recoup as much of the cost as you can to offset the expense of the new bike
    Keep it as is as a backup/beater bike
    Make it a project bike; enjoy a test bed for new, wonderful, potentially wacky and insane ideas


    I rather favor that last option. Given your drawings I hope you do to. Experimentation may be treacherous, but if people don't try new things there can be no progress.

    But first things first: find out if a normal new road bike is what you want. Find a way to go ride one. And please, report back.


    P.S.
    You could turn you hybrid into a fixed gear. You could even do a drop bar conversation and not have the worry about shifters. A new wheel isn't especially cheap, but cheaper than a good new bike.
    If you have vertical dropouts check out eccentric hubs and magic gears.
    Last edited by NightShift; 07-06-10 at 10:31 AM. Reason: edited for typos
    Quote Originally Posted by sprockets View Post
    I talk to myself regularly - crazy is the technical term I believe. The only time I shut up is when I'm riding. (that's the best time to listen to all those voices in your head :D )

  4. #29
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    Another item potentially of interest
    http://www.bikeparts.com/search_resu...p?id=BPC310069

  5. #30
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    Update;

    I went for a quick 30 short term solution; I hack-sawed the 580mm handlebars down to 480mm, swapped the 110mm stem for a 140mm stem, and added a set of BBB Classic bar ends. Just been for a ride - feels muuuch better.


    :: Now ::











    :: Previously ::




    In the long run, what I really want to build is something more like this, but the above should be an acceptable bodge to keep me amused for a while. It'll certainly more convenient for dodging taxis in the city.

  6. #31
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    The new setup looks nice. I get the impression that you'll probably spend a lot of time on the bar ends. As long as you have hands on brakes when dealing with rough terrain or traffic this should be fine, but I always like having the brakes immediately available. I'd be tempted to try interrupter levers (or old road brake levers) on the bar ends, but the cabling would end up being a mess.
    Quote Originally Posted by sprockets View Post
    I talk to myself regularly - crazy is the technical term I believe. The only time I shut up is when I'm riding. (that's the best time to listen to all those voices in your head :D )

  7. #32
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    Hi, I know this is a really old thread, but I don't come around here often.

    Actually, I only found this thread because I was doing an image search for bullhorn handlebars and ran across the following post.

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkN View Post
    Cheers for the suggestions, you lot. Loads of cool stuff out there, I especially like those spinachi extenders.

    Here's the bottom line though, see; I can only afford new handlebars, not a whole new control set. Road STI shifters are just too expensive. So whatever I do it's probably going to involve my current Deore STI shifters.

    Realistically, I'll probably end up hack-sawing about 6cm off each end of my 58cm straight bar and if I can find a reasonably priced 140mm/10 degree stem, I'll try that too.

    However, practicality has never kept me away from the drawingboard! What I'd *really* like to try is this;

    So, that's my current STI shifters mounted backwards on a set of bullhorn handlebars, with the cables coming out forwards in a complete mess.

    The bullhorns would need to be compatible with a 25.4 stem clamp and 22mm clamps on the controls. The upward bend at the end of the bullhorns would have to be long enough for the MTB shifters to clip onto AND to give my hands enough room to brace against them while braking (ie. long).

    Where, if such bullhorn bars exist, could I find them? Is it even a good idea?

    Or, is there an ecconomical, ergonomic and sensible way to integrate a pair of bar-end brakes and some quick-fire shifters?
    So, in the interest of providing some useful information, this is my setup:


    It's a standard Deore Rapidfire brifter mounted on a Nitto B601 Promenade handlebar. So, yes, it's a 25.4 stem clamp with 22.2mm brake clamp diameter.

    Obviously, it doesn't have an upswept bend on the ends, but I was specifically looking for something completely flat. Also, with my 130mm stem (yeah, it's vintage, just like the bike), the reach is good. I even have the brakes slid down a bit from the ends of the bars, though sometimes I do ride with my palms over the clamps. As pictured by MarkN, the reach looks way too long unless going with a lot shorter stem or too small of a top tube.

    Getting the angle of the bars took a couple of tries- I did have some problems with numbness in my palms at different angles and with neoprene gloves, but I haven't noticed any problems recently, though I'm not wearing any gloves now either.

    It's not clear from the photo, but the brakes rotate out by about ten or fifteen degrees. This is what I've found to be comfortable for both braking and shifting, and the gear indicators are visible without needing to move my head to the side. I haven't had any issue with needing an upward flare to prevent my hands from sliding forward when braking hard since my index finger rests against the brake clamp area.

    The only issues I have with this setup is that the bars flare out by a couple of degrees, and they are something like a 44.5mm width at the ends. I have mostly gotten used to the flare and I was used to the width until I got on my road bike with noticeably narrower bars, which make me feel more aerodynamic.

    Another minor issue is the bar diameter- the smaller 22.2mm diameter with low quality padded tape that bottoms out easily means that the bars do feel thinner than regular bars. I figure I may double wrap my bars, or find long mountain bike bar grips.

    As an aside, this is probably mentioned elsewhere on the site, but having tried road STI on lazy man's bullhorns (cut down drops), I've found the shifters to require way too much throw to be comfortable. road STI shifting feels best done from the hoods, less so from the drops. Besides, I mostly prefer V-brakes over cantilevers (with some caveats) and I don't know of any long pull road STI levers.

    edit: There are also the Velo Orange Montmartre handlebars that would also fit, however I don't know whether I could deal with the drop or rise at the bends.
    Last edited by Geekage; 04-24-14 at 01:49 PM. Reason: more info

  8. #33
    Senior Member Velocivixen's Avatar
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    Hey, I don't know if this will help your desired riding position, but talk about options. Check out this Velo Orange Casey's Crazy Bar. Main grip area is 22.2 for mountain brakes/shifters and the forward "horns" are 23.8 for road gear.

    Casey's Crazy Bar

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asi View Post
    Nice drawing!

    As for the bars.. the third one can be replaced with a normal flat bar and a greater angle stem (pointed downward), and a very long stem (200mm? provided that you already have a long stem like 120mm, just add that U turn from the middle of the bars of your third sketch and put a flatbar with barends wherever you like)
    A very long stem might be hard to find, but in terms of stress/resistance is actually the exact same thing with your original 3rd sketch. The torque applied to the mounting stem-steerer tube is the same, since the length between the grips and the steerer tube is the same (if you find that insanely long stem)

    If now you have 30mm DH stem, then a 120-140mm stem will clearly make a difference.

    or as someone pointed, a trekking bar.

    pretty much agree. my solution was a mtb flat bar and a frame with a short headtube and a somewhat longer stem with the saddle moved back a bit on the seatpost.

  10. #35
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    What have you got to lose?

    I'm an experiment of one. When I get an idea similar to yours I build it up to the best of my ability and give it a try. The worst thing that's likely to happen is you'll hate it in which case you can switch it back.

    The second worst thing is you'll love it but everybody else will laugh at you. If that happens, come ride with us recumbent riders.
    My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.

  11. #36
    Senior Member zonatandem's Avatar
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    Have a pair of modified (cut down) Spinaccis on my road bike. Nice for extra hand position and stretching out a tad.
    Picked 'em up at a bike swap meet for 2 bucks (original cost new: $99).

  12. #37
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    I didn't read the whole thread, nor really understand the issue. Yes, I see it's a 4 year old resurrected thread, but since people have added good info recently, I'll add this in case it hasn't already:

    Here's some other mods for flat bar tweaking, clip on drop bar ends: Product Description | Origin8

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightShift View Post
    The new setup looks nice. I get the impression that you'll probably spend a lot of time on the bar ends. As long as you have hands on brakes when dealing with rough terrain or traffic this should be fine, but I always like having the brakes immediately available. I'd be tempted to try interrupter levers (or old road brake levers) on the bar ends, but the cabling would end up being a mess.
    Use TT reverse levers plugged into bar ends, cable then nicely lays flat against bars running rearwards instead of looping out in front

    as a bonus, then install interrupter levers where the existing flat levers are.
    leave shift pods as is
    adds braking ability to your bars ends, without losing anything from old hand position

  14. #39
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geekage View Post



    So, in the interest of providing some useful information, this is my setup:


    I like it, and if it works for you, it's all good.
    I've done a couple of bull horn builds, and they both work great. I used interrupter levers on both, this one has a bar end shifter working a Sturmey Archer 3 speed.



    This one has a Sturmey Archer 8 speed with rotary shifter.



    Videos showing the process.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgFt1zG_knM
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJCUT6bM5D0
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    The greatest mistake you can make in life is to be continually fearing you will make one. Elbert Hubbard.

  15. #40
    Senior Member Drakonchik's Avatar
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    Tranz-X adjustable bar-ends can be useful for alternative flat handlebar designs.

    You can reverse the intended installation: in other words toss the included bar-end tubing and insert the expanding lug into the end of your 22.2mm OD handlebar; now you have a 22.2mm ID clamp into which you can insert any 22.2mm tubing of your choosing.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #41
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Lots of good ideas here!
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

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