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Thread: Clicking BB30

  1. #1
    No matches Flatballer's Avatar
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    Clicking BB30

    I've got a Pedal Force BB30 that I've got a couple thousand miles on. I originally had SRAM Red crankset and BB (which is ceramic). After a couple hundred miles it started to click under hard torque. I took it apart, greased everything, put it back together, and it stopped, only to start clicking after another couple hundred miles.

    I thought it might be the ceramic bearings, so I sold them and bought some FSA stainless steel bearings and installed those. Again it stopped clicking for about 200 miles, and then started again.

    Everything seems tight and there's no play that I can feel. The clicking has gotten worse, to the point where I don't have to be pedaling very hard for it to be clicking, and it's pretty constant now.

    Any ideas what I can do to fix this? It's driving me crazy, and I'm assuming I'm damaging something.

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    could be anything, pedals, cleats, saddle, etc

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    No matches Flatballer's Avatar
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    except for the part where it stops after regreasing the BB. Pretty sure that wouldn't cause a saddle to stop creaking.

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    It could be the crank arm to spindle interface, something that has to be disassembled to access the bearings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    It could be the crank arm to spindle interface, something that has to be disassembled to access the bearings.
    I actually decided a few minutes ago to test that today. I loosened the crank arm and then tightened it again. I'll see if it makes noise today.

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    No matches Flatballer's Avatar
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    Well, I think that helped, for about 3 minutes. Seems to suggest it's the spindle/arm interface, but I just didn't fix it, only stopped it for a minute.

    Other than greasing it (which I do) and putting the correct torque, what else can I do?

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    I don't know about more recent cranks but on FSA's earlier integrated spindle cranks, they recommended using Loctite 641 at the crank arm interface (after a lot of failures without it). The Loctite fills in any clearance gaps and results in a tighter, rigid fit between the components. I believe that SRAM is already using a press-fit for their crank arms but adding the Loctite certainly can't hurt. Good luck finding it at any bike shop or hardware store though. I ordered mine (to fix a friend's crank) from McMaster Carr.

    To apply it, you must first clean off any grease from both the spindle and crank arm. Use acetone to get the surfaces completely clean. Apply the Loctite to the splines on the spindle and assemble. Takes 24 hours to cure. I'd be curious to hear if it solves your issue.

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    If you are not already greasing the crank bolt itself, you could try that first. Are you greasing the spindle where it contacts the bearings?

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    I have some 640 sleeve retainer that I used for the bottom bracket because I thought that's where it was clicking and moving around. Is 640 close enough to 641?

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    If you are not already greasing the crank bolt itself, you could try that first. Are you greasing the spindle where it contacts the bearings?
    yeah, I do both of those already. I grease everywhere that contacts anything in the BB area, except for the BB touching the bike, I use loctite 640 for that.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatballer View Post
    I have some 640 sleeve retainer that I used for the bottom bracket because I thought that's where it was clicking and moving around. Is 640 close enough to 641?
    You could give it a try. There is so little distinguishing one Loctite product from another that I wouldn't be surprised if in practice there was no difference. Worst case, it doesn't work so you disassemble, clean it off, and start over.

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