BidwellStatue

I have a 97 GT Zaskar. The headset is pitted, and I want to get a fixed fork. From what I've read so far, 1" is old and hard to find.

If I bought this
https://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTNONEINCH.html
and this
https://www.bikeman.com/HD3200.html
would I be good to go?
1InchSteerTube..jpg
HeadsetTop..jpg
HeadsetBot..jpg
4.25InHeadTube..jpg

I can reuse the cap and bolt and quill thing right?

operator

You need to buy a threadless headset to use that fork, you selected a threaded headset. Also you'll need a 26" suspension corrected fork if you're going rigid. I would advise you to stick with the threadless forks however - threaded is stupid. You will need a new 1" threaless stem for probably a 22.2 bar as well.

BidwellStatue

OK I thought the fork I linked was threaded, here are some that might work, which would best replace a suspension fork?

https://www.bikeman.com/FK0070.html
https://www.bikeman.com/FK0071.html
https://www.bikeman.com/FK0072.html

fietsbob

the fork you linked to is threadless, so you need something from this selection for a headset,
https://www.bikeman.com/1inch_Threadless_Headsets.html ,

then you will want spacers to go in between the top of the headset to the bottom of the stem,
I recommend going conservative on the Irreversible cutting the steerer tube on the fork too short.

actually threadless setups work fine with spacers stacked on top of the stem,
so as you get older riding gets more casual, not bending over so far will feel better,
then you can raise the stem by shifting the upper set of spacers underneath the stem.

No quill thing , not functional with a threadless steerer..
the top cap screw is your headset pre load adjustment
the stem clamping bolts are loosened and the bolt on the top is tightened cxompressing everything on top of the headset.
then when headset feels in adjustment tightening the stem bolts retains that
adjustment ..

a quill that can substitute for a star nut , i like, comes from BBB in the NL,
US distributor: Bike Mine out of OKC
you tighten the quill,inside the steerer It has a 7/8" OD,
but the bolt you tighten is itself internally threaded,
so once the quill is tight, the headset adjustment is as usual for a threadless headset.

there are some keyed shimms tat you can use to elevate the quill a little higher to un shorten the steerer tube a couple inches , But its not as good as not cutting too short in the first place..

I will mention a Sheldon Brown offered setup, a clever hybrid.

you use the top race of a threadless steerer and the spacers you want to stiffen the steerer tube , but hire the Bike shop/frame builder with a fork threading die for 1" steerers . and you just thread enough of the top to get the top screw part of a threaded headset to screw downtight.

The rest is unthreaded and as a result stronger than it would be with threads cut in it.
top headset race is threadless as is a section of steerer tube above it,
only the last 3/4 ~ 1" needs threading..
then quill stems quick height adjustment may be utilized.

but really Full threadless conversion is better, no quill ... threadless stem ..
they are all 9/8" but a shim will be supplied, if you ask for one.
to clamp around the 1" pipe.

BidwellStatue

So I can use an unthreaded 1" fork with a threadless headset, and just buy a star nut thing with a new, shorter screw for the cap?

BidwellStatue

The three forks I posted just have different length steerer tubes.

BidwellStatue

My stem doesn't have bolts.
NoBoltStem..jpg

BidwellStatue

SO if I buy a 1" threadless headset, 26" threadless fork with a 1" steer tube, and threadless stem I can just replace everything? I just have to ask for the star nut and a shim for the stem?

operator

Here's what you need to do

1) Buy a suspension corrected 26", 1" steerer fork
2) Buy a 1" threaless heaset
3) Buy various amounts of AL spacers
4) Buy a threadless stem, 1" clamp OR a 1 1/8" stem with shim with the appropriate clamp size for your bars - most likely 22.2

operator

The star nut comes with the threadless headset. Spacers also come with some threadless headsets. It may not be enough however.

BidwellStatue

Thx to all, can't wait to get this last part of the puzzle done, my bike will be a supermachine.

fietsbob

Have to buy another stem then, too, as you don't have a compatible threadless stem.

" The three forks I posted just have different length steerer tubes."

get one long enough to reach what is the highest point on your current setup at least.

as the new stem clamps around the fork , not as your old quill going in it..

crown race seat , bottom of the bottom part of the headset to the top of your current stem, at least.

BidwellStatue

When I get a threadless fork then problem solved, right?

BidwellStatue

https://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTNONEINCH.html
https://www.bikeman.com/HD3225.html

https://store.icyclesusa.com/titec-ca...-4-p32289.aspx
https://store.icyclesusa.com/stem-shi...54-p11265.aspx
https://store.icyclesusa.com/ritchey-...254-p1071.aspx

That should do it, right?

fietsbob

Can't say whether you will need a short or taller spacer stack, sight un seen , Like I say get 2 sets, have some above the stem, so if you change your riding posture to want the stem taller , the steerer tube length will still be there., you just re clamp the stem on top of more spacers.

A couple big fender washers (wide but with a smaller hole) a length of 'all thread' and a few nuts ,
withthose simple parts you can fabricate a headset press to press the cups of the new headset in

crown race seating tool is a tube just a little bigger than the steerer tube . aluminum good for a single use, steel better for multiple installation

end has to be square though, Tubing cutter in aluminum, lathe cut off better in steel.

badamsjr

The picture you posted shows a threaded HS and quill stem. Don't believe everything you hear about the death of 1" threaded components. King has 1" threaded HS available, and Nashbar has 1" threaded forks, as well as quill stems. I have them on a couple of my bikes, and like the ease of height adjustment with the quill stem. You can even get adjustable quill stems in 1" if you want to try various stem angles. Mine work great!

BidwellStatue

Thanks for the tips, there are lathes at work. I am going about as low as it is now, I'm not going to leave extra, damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead.

BidwellStatue

Nashbar has a road fork threaded 1", I need a suspension-adjusted MTB fork and I'm not going to spend days finding one. I suppose if I was going to try and restore it to period equipment I would do that, but I just want it to work well, by next week, for not so much money. The stuff is ordered already anyway.

BidwellStatue

After reading a little more on these old Zaskars, I have found that it came with a threadless headset. I guess the threaded one on there now was put on later.

What is the best kind of grease to use on the headset?
IMG_0113..jpg

BidwellStatue

Finally done with the headset.
IMG_0115..jpg
I needed a new bottom bracket, and tried to replace the old one while waiting for fork parts. I couldn't thread it in right, the shop did though.
IMG_0116..jpg
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This fork is 1", turns out I didn't measure right, I had to send it back for 1 1/8" fork and headset.
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I managed to get the old headset out by using the old fork to pound it out.

BidwellStatue

IMG_0123..jpg
This is the top race being too small.

BidwellStatue

IMG_0126..jpg
IMG_0127..jpg
Proper size fork and headset.
IMG_0130..jpg
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Before and after I filed some of the powdercoat and other junk off the fork crown to give it a better fit.
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Fork getting chopped at work.

BidwellStatue

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I banged the crown race on with PVC pipe and a reducer, which was destroyed in the effort. You can see a chip of PVC there.
IMG_0140..jpg
The PVC pipe.
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My attempt to screw the bottom headset race with the all-thread and washer method. It wasn't going in straight, so back to the shop where they did it for pretty cheap.
IMG_0136..jpg
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Bottom and top headset races filled with bearings and grease.

BidwellStatue

IMG_0141..jpg
I took a round-headed phillips screw and filed the end off to pound the star nut.
IMG_0144..jpg
When screwed down, the tube stuck out from the stem so back to the store for more spacers.
IMG_0145..jpg
The headset works now, but
IMG_0146..jpg
The old fork had the brake stop, so back to the store for one that goes under the stem.

BidwellStatue

IMG_0150..jpg
New brake cable housing stop.
IMG_0148..jpg
IMG_0149..jpg
Levelled the housing with dremel.
IMG_0152..jpg
IMG_0153..jpg
Here's where I may have done bad, does the housing look like it goes into the stop too crooked? The brakes seem to work ok.