Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    32
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Juicy 3 blead/rebuild problem

    Hi all.

    My rear Juicy 3 caliper has been rebuilt and the whole system bled. Sram instructions have been methodically followed.

    Still, it wont do: the lever throw is such that it will go all the way to the handlebar.
    The caliper pistons do move freely (problem #1 solved) but will reach the disc at the very end of the lever play. Unusable.

    Of course, I searched the web and this forum -- with no result.

    Any idea?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    The 'Wack, BC, Canada
    My Bikes
    Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
    Posts
    5,429
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is the lever firm when it finally does stop travelling or is it still spongy? If it's firm are you testing it WITH the pads in place? Generally this is just a matter of adjusting the lever screw that moves the master's piston. If it has to travel too far before it closes the hole to the reservoir then you get a long lever travel. But if it is still spongy feeling then it's due to an air bubble still in the system.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    32
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I did try with the pads and disc in place. It did feel a little bit spongy at the end of the throw -- spongy as juicy 3; I guess it's due to material flex rather than bad bleed.

    I found something about pad reset : pull the lever until the pads are 2mm apart (no disc) then insert disc/plastic spacer and pump the lever. This should help position the pistons thus adjusting lever throw. I will that as soon as possible; for now, I'm a 45minutes drive from my bike.

    The lever screw adjusts the position (angle) of the lever and has nothing to do with how much it moves prior to engaging the pads on the disc.

    Many thanks,
    I'll keep you informed.


    Edit : I had somebody do that "pads reset" and it didn't do it. I don't get it. I had the thing worked on because of damaged caliper piston -- it worked well otherwise -- and now this... Argh!

    Edit# 2 : Today I did it myself; I had to squeeze the pads 1mm apart, pull them out, push the pistons back in a little and voilą! It works!
    Last edited by twicethefun; 07-25-10 at 04:44 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •