How much better are wirless than wired computer
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How much better are wirless than wired computer
Well, I have toasted my Astrale 8 cable set again for I think the 3rd time, and at $20 / pop. I could have bought a wireless. So, my question to all the wireless users out there how reliable are they and do they stand up to be beatings that the wired ones don't?
I really like the Astrale, but the thin wiring makes it prone to be easially broken. The cadence still works, but the mileage and speed sensor is toast, or if there are any suggestions on what else can be done, I would appreciate it. I have done the folowing:
Replaced batteries and reset.
Cleaned sensors on computer with eraser.
cleaned off magnet on wheel.
Used a paperclip on computer to see if computer is working properly.
I just can't get the sensor to pick up the magnet. I was when I was putting my wheel back on.
I really like the Astrale, but the thin wiring makes it prone to be easially broken. The cadence still works, but the mileage and speed sensor is toast, or if there are any suggestions on what else can be done, I would appreciate it. I have done the folowing:
Replaced batteries and reset.
Cleaned sensors on computer with eraser.
cleaned off magnet on wheel.
Used a paperclip on computer to see if computer is working properly.
I just can't get the sensor to pick up the magnet. I was when I was putting my wheel back on.
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I've never broken a cyclocomputer wire. but some people I know break wires all the time so only use wireless.
wireless stuff has worked fine for me, mostly, but there are transmission-distance issues for some people. as a tall rider, I've had to worry about placing the sensor high enough on the fork so that it isn't too far away from my handlebars. and every so often I get mis-reading. but only very rarely.
you can get cyclocomputers with extra-thick wires that are less likely to break.
wireless stuff has worked fine for me, mostly, but there are transmission-distance issues for some people. as a tall rider, I've had to worry about placing the sensor high enough on the fork so that it isn't too far away from my handlebars. and every so often I get mis-reading. but only very rarely.
you can get cyclocomputers with extra-thick wires that are less likely to break.
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#3
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they're not. but there are applications that they will be better, you may be one of them.
sounds like you give the wire rough service,,then get a wireless,
Mavic, is clever, they put the transmitter in the QR lever , unless you got a CF blade wheel
thats where wheel gets closest to the fork.
Got to get the magnet and sensor within 2mm of each other often .
sounds like you give the wire rough service,,then get a wireless,
Mavic, is clever, they put the transmitter in the QR lever , unless you got a CF blade wheel
thats where wheel gets closest to the fork.
Got to get the magnet and sensor within 2mm of each other often .
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The wireless units are fine, not as bulletproof reliable as a wire (compare a cell phone to a land line) but plenty good enough. If you're breaking wires go wireless. If wires aren't a problem, stay with them since simple is always better.
Also keep in mind that wireless units go through batteries much quicker, since you're supporting radio transmitters and receivers in addition to the computer itself.
Also keep in mind that wireless units go through batteries much quicker, since you're supporting radio transmitters and receivers in addition to the computer itself.
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#5
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You may be able to fix the wires. I had one break in the middle of the run, not at the end, and I was able to splice them together. I do other electronics so I had the equipment necessary to check the circuit, soldering iron and so on. This is pretty simple, IF you can find the break and it isn't at the joint.
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I changed from a Wireless 7 to an Astrale 8 because the wireless would not work with my Niterider MOAB HID headlight. Others on another thread had similar issues with wireless. I keep the magnet close too, 2-3mm, and have had no problems so far.
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Cell phones dick around with wireless setups. Mine normally jacks my max speed to 59.5 mph so I have to leave it off. If I rub the back of my phone, Blackberry Curve, on the back side of my VDO 15+ I can get 95 mph max. I've had this issue with an Avenir and another model I can't remember the brand of. All of the cell phones I've owned have done this. When I was living in Seattle and rode through downtown, the trolley systems made it go whack also. Ambient RF signals can be annoying. I ride off road and don't have issues any longer. Aside from that, battery life is the only recurring issue I've had.
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My LED headlight screws up the one wireless computer I have. So does parking outside some stores and McDs: will come back out and watch speedo going nuts and have added 3-10 miles on the odo during a 15-min break. Wired for me. My Sigma and cheapy Schwinn units have stout enough wires.
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I've used nothing but wired cyclometers on numerous bikes for 25 years and never had a wire break so I think its a case of proper handling and routing. Cat-Eye sells the Enduro line of cyclometers that use a heavier gauge and insulated wire harness and that may solve your problem.
Wireless isn't without its problems. RF interference, battery life and sensitivity to sensor and head position are among it's weak points.
Wireless isn't without its problems. RF interference, battery life and sensitivity to sensor and head position are among it's weak points.
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I've broken wires on a few computers. I just fix 'em. I had one with a failed sensor, and one with either a failed head or the head base cracked or something. I just cut the good sensor off that one to replace the failed sensor on the other. To me, wired computers are a lot more serviceable than wireless, and there's that much EMF in your presence.
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You might be a good candidate for a Cateye Enduro. It has a thicker, much more durable wire, but it doesn't offer cadence.
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thanks for all the response. How would one go about finding where the wire stretched on the rear speed wire do you just strip the wire and find it and make it shorter or longer?
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First be sure the magnet passes by the sensor within 1/8th inch. There is a slot window in the sensor that needs to face the magnet.
I've owned 5 Cateye Astrale computers since 1995. I've had only one failure, and no broken wires. I consider them to be the most dependable trouble free computer on the market. I may try a wireless if another one of my Astrales ever fails. Right now they are all more than 10 years old.
I've owned 5 Cateye Astrale computers since 1995. I've had only one failure, and no broken wires. I consider them to be the most dependable trouble free computer on the market. I may try a wireless if another one of my Astrales ever fails. Right now they are all more than 10 years old.
#16
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To find the break in the wire, inspect the ends at the sensor and mount. They usually get pulled out there. For preventing future issues, I recommend zip-tying the wiring at each end to the frame. Then use clear tape to stick it flush against the tubing so there's no parts hanging free. Extra free length of wire can be wrapped around and around the front brake-cable on the way up to the bars. I end up with only about 2.5" of exposed vulnerable cable between the front-brake and the fork/downtube to allow for rotation.
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I've tried wireless and got a lot of interference when going under power-lines and in packs of 100+ riders (increases chances someone else is on similar frequency).
To find the break in the wire, inspect the ends at the sensor and mount. They usually get pulled out there. For preventing future issues, I recommend zip-tying the wiring at each end to the frame. Then use clear tape to stick it flush against the tubing so there's no parts hanging free. Extra free length of wire can be wrapped around and around the front brake-cable on the way up to the bars. I end up with only about 2.5" of exposed vulnerable cable between the front-brake and the fork/downtube to allow for rotation.
To find the break in the wire, inspect the ends at the sensor and mount. They usually get pulled out there. For preventing future issues, I recommend zip-tying the wiring at each end to the frame. Then use clear tape to stick it flush against the tubing so there's no parts hanging free. Extra free length of wire can be wrapped around and around the front brake-cable on the way up to the bars. I end up with only about 2.5" of exposed vulnerable cable between the front-brake and the fork/downtube to allow for rotation.
#18
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My wife has a Cateye Micro wireless on her commuter for about five years. She never takes it off her bike, it has gone through rain, snow, fog it just keeps working like new. It has even been on the back of the car in the rain, along with my bike. My computer was toast, hers was uneffected. The only problem other than the two sets of batteries, is automatic door openers. Get to close, and the display blinks all sorts of numbers, and the memory for the ride gets wiped out. She came home one day from the store with a top speed of 75 mph. It has performed so well I got one for my bike too, 2 years and no problems. I have a wired computer on another bike, I'm waiting for it to go bad so I can replace it with a wireless. I can't see going back to a wired unit.
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Wireless cost more. I buy a lot of computers, and I keep going cheaper and cheaper to see if I can find a computer I don't like. I'm down to $6 each. I just installed one of these, and it seems just fine.
I can't think of a reason for me or my customers to go wireless. Wired is just fine for us.
I can't think of a reason for me or my customers to go wireless. Wired is just fine for us.
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#20
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I think I'm going to try and find where the problem is. I guess I am not out anything. I do have it zip tied on most of the bike and wrapped around the brake cable up front. I just think that the problem is cause when I have to take the rear wheel out for a repair. It seems to cause more problems than with computers on the front wheel. I do like the idea of using clear tape. I'm also going to look at the wireless.
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I guess this is a light bulb moment. I never even thought of that. That would work so much better. The only drawback would be during the winter, I would not be able to track the speed / distance. That is a great idea.
#22
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There are longer wire harnesses to mount on the rear wheel, but they come with a front wheel length wire ,
so if you use the front wheel wire , if that is too far a stretch, from wheel to handlebar
consider a method to mount the Computer on the top-tube sideways should be fine i'd think,
there is a Mintoura mount that may be adapted to put on the side of the top tube.
maybe if you want to run on the turbo-trainer , rear wheel is where you want to mount it , just get the right parts.
wireless with its two batterys to replace may be better for your application,
it is not in general Better .. just different.
different people have different applications of what they get.
so if you use the front wheel wire , if that is too far a stretch, from wheel to handlebar
consider a method to mount the Computer on the top-tube sideways should be fine i'd think,
there is a Mintoura mount that may be adapted to put on the side of the top tube.
maybe if you want to run on the turbo-trainer , rear wheel is where you want to mount it , just get the right parts.
wireless with its two batterys to replace may be better for your application,
it is not in general Better .. just different.
different people have different applications of what they get.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-16-10 at 02:46 PM.
#23
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Obviously you go faster with wireless due to the weight savings
I go Wireless on the Mountain Bike, Sigma Sport BC 1200 - worked for years.I was always ripping off wires on the trails
I also use the Astrale 8 on the softer duty road bikes.
I go Wireless on the Mountain Bike, Sigma Sport BC 1200 - worked for years.I was always ripping off wires on the trails
I also use the Astrale 8 on the softer duty road bikes.
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wireless computers suffer from the electro emissions from head lights placed near the computer.
usually only when flashing, but sometimes on low and medium modes, as the lights often use PWM to dim lights.
usually only when flashing, but sometimes on low and medium modes, as the lights often use PWM to dim lights.
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I also have a wired Astral installed on one bike used mostly on my trainer but occasionally on the road. You do have to be careful removing and installing the rear wheel but I've never damaged the wiring when doing so.