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  1. #1
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    How Do You Convert The Dahon Jack Into A Road Bike?

    I want to turn the original Dahon Jack from this



    into this...





    anyone know what parts would I need? What about the gear shifter?
    This is how the handle bars look like originally FYI


    I'm a noob so I don't know the names of the parts pictures or links would be best for me, Thanks!

    PS: Can I put 700c road bike tires on the Dahon Jack?

  2. #2
    Member jester711's Avatar
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    They didn't change the shifter at all. The moved the standard grip shifter onto the end of the drop bars.

    I can't tell if they changed the rims, but it looks like they changed the tires to (a winter tire in the picture, but otherwise.. ) slicks for easy city riding. They also changed the handlebars to road bike style drop bars. They had to change the standard brake levers to drop bar style brake levers. It looks like they bought a pair that use the same cable though, because You can see the cable coming out from under the bar tape, and into the horozontal brake levers.

    I might've missed something, but those are the things that jump out to me. I'm a newb too, but I've done the tire change on my mountain bike, and I've considered doing the drop bar change as well. I settled for Bar ends though.

  3. #3
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    The HubBub bike shop in Ohio designed the bar end adapter, and seems like they can be gotten thru many bike shops, now. even in England http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-H...3-mm-11233.htm

    the other thing is straight bars are smaller in the center than road bars, 1" vs 26mm, so a stem swap may be in order..
    V brake road levers if you have V brakes..
    the larger diameter of road bars in general is why that drop bar adapter was made,
    On the end it is the same diameter as the 7/8" tubing of MTB bars.

  4. #4
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    For 700c tires you need to buy a different bike. from Dahon, also, are these : http://us.dahon.com/bikes/1672/tournado

  5. #5
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Here's what I see you'll need (many already listed above)

    -Drop handlebar
    -Handlebar tape
    -Stem (may want a shorter and/or taller one than current)
    -V-brake compatible drop brake levers http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.a...S&currency=USD
    -Cross/Interruptor brake levers (if you want them; personally, I wouldn't bother)
    -Hub-bub adapter above
    -New cables and housing (at least for the brakes; may not need for shifter)
    -Slick 26" road tires and smaller tubes (If you currently use schrader tubes and want to use presta, get two grommets to reduce the valve hole of the rims. And hopefully the current rims are narrow enough to use as narrow tires as you want. If you want to replace the wheels, I think you'll be entering into "it's just not worth it" territory.)

    There are other options for the shifters, but they'd be more costly, difficult, and time-consuming than the above.
    Last edited by JiveTurkey; 08-05-10 at 04:04 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  6. #6
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    What is your goal for how this bike will ride after doing some upgrades? Is the idea just to get into a different riding position and get more options for hand positions? Or is it because you think it'll be fast like a road bike? Or do you just like the look of the drop bars? Be honest now..... Being honest with us would be nice but more importantly be honest with yourself. And what can you spend on this as a budget?
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    What is your goal for how this bike will ride after doing some upgrades? Is the idea just to get into a different riding position and get more options for hand positions? Or is it because you think it'll be fast like a road bike? Or do you just like the look of the drop bars? Be honest now..... Being honest with us would be nice but more importantly be honest with yourself. And what can you spend on this as a budget?
    i like the look of the drop-bars...i like the speed of the thin wheels...i like the different riding positions and more options of hand positions....and most important of all I love the convenience of folding the bike taking it with me to work instead of locking it in the street and folding it and putting it in the trunk of my car.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    For 700c tires you need to buy a different bike. from Dahon, also, are these : http://us.dahon.com/bikes/1672/tournado
    $2500....

  9. #9
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    wow thanks !! your information is much appreciated ! =D

    Quote Originally Posted by JiveTurkey View Post
    Here's what I see you'll need (many already listed above)

    -Drop handlebar
    -Handlebar tape
    -Stem (may want a shorter and/or taller one than current)
    -V-brake compatible drop brake levers http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.a...S&currency=USD
    -Cross/Interruptor brake levers (if you want them; personally, I wouldn't bother)
    -Hub-bub adapter above
    -New cables and housing (at least for the brakes; may not need for shifter)
    -Slick 26" road tires and smaller tubes (If you currently use schrader tubes and want to use presta, get two grommets to reduce the valve hole of the rims. And hopefully the current rims are narrow enough to use as narrow tires as you want. If you want to replace the wheels, I think you'll be entering into "it's just not worth it" territory.)

    There are other options for the shifters, but they'd be more costly, difficult, and time-consuming than the above.

  10. #10
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    yeah, I see the cable on the left side of the picture but not the right. is the right brake lever on the drop bar just for show? or is the cable inside the handle bar?

    Quote Originally Posted by jester711 View Post
    They didn't change the shifter at all. The moved the standard grip shifter onto the end of the drop bars.

    I can't tell if they changed the rims, but it looks like they changed the tires to (a winter tire in the picture, but otherwise.. ) slicks for easy city riding. They also changed the handlebars to road bike style drop bars. They had to change the standard brake levers to drop bar style brake levers. It looks like they bought a pair that use the same cable though, because You can see the cable coming out from under the bar tape, and into the horozontal brake levers.

    I might've missed something, but those are the things that jump out to me. I'm a newb too, but I've done the tire change on my mountain bike, and I've considered doing the drop bar change as well. I settled for Bar ends though.

  11. #11
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Thought of something else. If you don't use cross/interruptor levers, you may not have a barrel adjuster. You can replace the v-brake noodles with ones that have a built-in barrel adjuster: http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-V-Brak.../dp/B003BCG8Y6
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  12. #12
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canonikon View Post
    yeah, I see the cable on the left side of the picture but not the right. is the right brake lever on the drop bar just for show? or is the cable inside the handle bar?
    There are three cables. One for each drop and cross brake lever pairing and one for the shifter. Edit: the brake cable starts at the drop brake lever, runs under the tape, through the cross/interrupter lever, and out to the brake.
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JiveTurkey View Post
    Thought of something else. If you don't use cross/interruptor levers, you may not have a barrel adjuster. You can replace the v-brake noodles with ones that have a built-in barrel adjuster: http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-V-Brak.../dp/B003BCG8Y6
    what are barrel adjuster? you seem like you know what you're doing, so if you say you wouldn't bother with the cross/interruptor levers than I probably wouldn't too...what is that anyway?

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    for the 26" slick tires, which should I get ? 26 x 1.5 ? 26 x 1.3 ? can I get like...26 x 1.0? or the rims are too wide?

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    it seems like he used the original stem, if you look at it carefully the letters on it matches the original. And it looks like he used the original brake levers for the drop-bar levers...as it appears to be black...can anyone read what it says on the black levers ?

  16. #16
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canonikon View Post
    what are barrel adjuster? you seem like you know what you're doing, so if you say you wouldn't bother with the cross/interruptor levers than I probably wouldn't too...what is that anyway?
    Barrel adjusters allow you to fine-tune the length of the cable housing which adjusts the relative length of the cable. This allows you to fine-tune how far away the brake pads sit from the rim, which allows you to set how much travel is in the brake lever. Basically it lets you fine tune all this after you've first setup the brakes in the ballpark of where they should be.

    I wouldn't bother with cross/interrupter levers because, for me, the only times I'm in the tops of my drop bars is when I'm climbing or cruising, both times access to brakes are not needed so quickly.

    Quote Originally Posted by canonikon View Post
    for the 26" slick tires, which should I get ? 26 x 1.5 ? 26 x 1.3 ? can I get like...26 x 1.0? or the rims are too wide?
    You should measure the inner width of your rim. You can use this chart as a guide: http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width

    1" = 25.4mm. 1.3" = ~33mm. 1.5" = ~38mm. Road bikes usually have 23 or 25mm tires, but I use 28mm because I'm heavier. 32mm and larger is common for touring.

    Quote Originally Posted by canonikon View Post
    it seems like he used the original stem, if you look at it carefully the letters on it matches the original. And it looks like he used the original brake levers for the drop-bar levers...as it appears to be black...can anyone read what it says on the black levers ?
    It may be the original stem. However, as someone mentioned above, most flat/MTB bars and corresponding stems have a clamp diameter of 25.4mm, which is slightly smaller than drop/road bars/stems at 26.0mm. A debate about whether it's okay to mix a 25.4 stem with 26.0 bar crops up every once in a while. Personally, I've seen it lead to a pinched bar that I was no longer comfortable using.

    Besides, going from flat to drop bars will significantly change the feel of the bike and you may find a new stem is needed to bring the bars closer/further or higher/lower.

    Guarantee the levers, either of them, are not the original levers. There are many reasons they could not be. The drop levers say the brand "Tektro" on them. I think they're the same as the ones I posted above.
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  17. #17
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Ok its not like coverting , but you cannot make a huge jump in wheel sizes, 559 to 622 and have the Brake pads hit the rim.
    if you are starting out with a disc brake bike its possible
    but rim brakes forgetaboutit.

    Buy another bike

    the one i mentioned does knock down to a small case

    S&S connectors [surly travelers check] or a Ritchey Breakaway frame,+ buy a groupset for retail, and it costs more..

  18. #18
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Ok its not like coverting , but you cannot make a huge jump in wheel sizes, 559 to 622 and have the Brake pads hit the rim.
    if you are starting out with a disc brake bike its possible
    but rim brakes forgetaboutit.

    Buy another bike

    the one i mentioned does knock down to a small case

    S&S connectors [surly travelers check] or a Ritchey Breakaway frame,+ buy a groupset for retail, and it costs more..
    There are 26" slicks.
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  19. #19
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    The S&S connectors require a tool to break down the bike. While it does make for a compact travel package it's not really in the same convienience league as a folder such as this Dahon.

    Your best bet for wheels is to stick with what you have and check the width of the rim to see if you can sneak on a 26x1.0. Likely you can since the wider MTB rims are almost all intended for light to heavy jumping and the extrusions used for less demanding riders are all the same extrusions as used by a lot of road bike rims.

    For commuting I can heartily recomend Panaracer Pasela TG tires in 26x1.25. They seat on the rim with a decidedly egg shaped fit where the point of the egg is the tire tread. This produces a more narrow road interface more in tune with what you'd get from a 23mm road tire. And the TG (Tour Guard) kevlar belt really does reduce or eliminatee flats.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  20. #20
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Dahon Licensed, paid a royalty to Tom Ritchey, for the Break away system.. a band clamp joins 2 flared tubes in the down tube.
    not unlike irrigation piping on the farm uses,
    the other joint breaks open when you remove the seatpost.

    that's how the Tournado comes apart to pack in the travel case ..

  21. #21
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    +1 Go to Sheldon Brown site for rim/tire limitations. I use the 26 x 1.25 slicks on my mountain bikes. Works great. Nashbar has them on sale right now for $10 each.

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    What I don't understand is there is only one brake line for the front brakes and one brake line for the rear brakes. So how will all four brake levers work? or does only two work and the other two doesn't work?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Dahon Licensed, paid a royalty to Tom Ritchey, for the Break away system.. a band clamp joins 2 flared tubes in the down tube.
    not unlike irrigation piping on the farm uses,
    the other joint breaks open when you remove the seatpost.

    that's how the Tournado comes apart to pack in the travel case ..
    You have no idea what you're talking about.

    The Dahon jack does not use any sort of ritchey breakaway system. The top tube is broken in two sections which come together in a plastic plug type system and is not 'secured' in anyway. The lower downtube system is a hinge system with a dahon latch. There are no band on clamps anywhere on the frame. The seatpost also does NOT need to be removed to break open another joint. There IS NO JOINT.

    Seriously people, stop making **** up. We sold those bikes and we repaired those bikes as an official dealer.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  24. #24
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    Cross levers use the existing brake cables, they go in the middle.

    You can sorta see it in this:


    The cable housing from the aero levers runs into the cross levers, then out again and to the brakes.

  25. #25
    Riding the road to PARADISE...RIP
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    Quote Originally Posted by canonikon View Post
    What I don't understand is there is only one brake line for the front brakes and one brake line for the rear brakes. So how will all four brake levers work? or does only two work and the other two doesn't work?
    The housing is spliced around the secondary brake levers, and the brake cable runs through them freely. These levers push on the housing while the cable is held in place by the main brake, which has the same effect as pulling on the cable while holding the housing in place (like on a normal brake).

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