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  1. #1
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    Please help me with this simple thing so I can get back on my bike

    Live in really rural area far from city with no car. LBS doesn't seem to have the right spoke or whatever, and it is on order.

    I need a replacement spoke for my Fuji Crosstown 4.0 linked below. Unfortuantly, the bike is sitting in the shop. It is on the rear wheel so I forget if it is on the freewheel side or on the longer side, so I want a long one and a short one. I want to get one 2 day mail so I can get back on my bike. It has been broke since Saturday. It wasn't the shop's fault it has been so long as they are closed on weekend evenings and Sundays. I couldn't drop it off till Monday.

    Also can you point me to a total replacement for the back wheel and the front wheel that I can just throw a tube and tire on when I do this and keep rolling? I want a spare rear wheel 36 spoke with a 7 speed freewheel (look at the stats I link below) for a reasonable price from a good retailer. Please note according to specs this is a free wheel and not a cassette.

    I'm going to end up having to learn to do this stuff, I'm afraid if I want to keep rolling.

    I know this is a lot of trouble, but can someone point me to the exact tool I'd need to remove the freewheel if I end up needing to do this stuff myself. The way I'm thinking of it is that you'd remove the rim. Then the tire, tube, and tape. If it is on the freewheel side you'd take it off (somehow) - thread the spoke through the 'hub' and screw it into the rim and tension it then you'd sit it on the 'bike frame' and try to true it with a spoke wrench. That is what I think, correct me if I'm wrong.

    Thanks so much - really.

    http://www.fujibikes.com/LifeStyle/P...osstown40.aspx
    Last edited by episodic; 08-10-10 at 05:45 PM.

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  2. #2
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    You've got it all in a nutshell. That's the exact order to do it.

    Sorry but there is just no way to know exactly which freewheel tool to get since there's about 4 different patterns out there. So you'll have to visit your bike in the hospital and size it up. If the shop guy is nice he'll tell you which tool to get for your particular freewheel.

    These things are also on darn tight. My own favourite, only in fact, way of removing them is to clamp the tool in my big honkin' bench vise that is attached to my rather immovable bench due to storing a lot of steel under it and then push down hard and turn from the rim until there's an almighty earth shattering CRACK as it comes loose or the drive pawls on the tool shatter Yes, it's happened both ways and there's no way to know which it is until you look.

    For doing this you CAN get away with the multi size all in one spoke tool but I heartily recomend getting the three Park individual wrenches. Again there's no way to know which size it'll be so you may as well get all three so you're covered.

    And once you know your spoke sizes for both the front and the two sides of the rear it wouldn't be a bad idea to order in two or three of each size. Most of us take for granted how easy it is to just go and get what we need in the big city. It's a bit of a reality check to hear about the amount of time you have had to wait.

    A second wheelset would not be a bad idea IF you know you're going to stick to this bike for some time to come. Otherwise if you're looking at possibly upgrading in the next year I'd strongly suggest just put the money away as seed money for the new(er) bike since it'll come with an 8 or 9 speed setup.
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  3. #3
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    Dumb question though can you link to me the exact spokes I'd need for this bike? I tried google and the searched 700c spokes - with not much luck they are all in metric lengths and I have no clue what size spokes I need for this bike. A link to a product page I could order it from would be helpful.

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  4. #4
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    Spoke lengths very from wheel to wheel. What kind of rim (model and company) and what kind of hub (model and company)?

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    It you buy a new wheels just buy another freewheel too. They are only about 15 bucks and you don't need a tool to put.it on, they just spin on budget tightened by your peddling. Ifyou do want the freewheel remover tool you needle park fr-1 I'm quite sure you have a shimano freewheel on that bike. I was gonna give you link to where I got a set of wheels for 30 bucks each but.it appears they don't have it in stock now. Google dimension 700c freewheel and see what comes up. It's a machine built 32 spoke wheel that has held up.fine.for.me at.235lbs.

  6. #6
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    It is the stock fuji rim?

    From the website I linked above here are the specs:
    Sizes (Step-Over) 15", 17", 19", 21", 23" Sizes (S.T.) (Step-Through) 15", 17", 19" Color(s) (Step-Over) Red/Pearlized White, Green Ivy/Cream Main frame Fuji Altair 1 aluminum with double water bottle mounts Rear triangle Fuji Altair 1 aluminum, rack mounts, replaceable derailleur hanger Fork Fuji Comfort, 1 1/8" with tapered blades Crankset ProWheel composite resin/steel, 44T Bottom bracket Sealed Cartridge Bearing ST Pedals Fuji Kraton rubber, No-slip platform Front derailleur NIL Rear derailleur Shimano Tourney RD-TX31 Shifters Shimano Tourney Revo Shift SL-RS43 Freewheel Sunrace MFM4S7 13-34T 7-speed Chain KMC Z-50 Front hub Fuji sealed alloy, 36H, QR Rear hub Fuji sealed alloy, 36H, QR Spokes 14G Stainless Steel Rims Fuji Hybrid Alloy Tires Kenda Hybrid, 700 x 35c Tubes Kenda Schrader Brake set ProMax V-brake, Forged alloy, linear pull Brake levers ProMax Comfort alloy with Kraton grip insert Headset Fuji Leisure Sealed, 1 1/8"" Handlebar Fuji ATB 50mm rise, steel Stem Fuji Leisure, alloy, adjustable angle Tape/grip Fuji Double Density Kraton Saddle Fuji Comfort Hybrid Men/Ladies specific Seat post Fuji suspension 27.2, 300mm Seat clamp Fuji alloy 31.8mm QR Other Alloy K-Stand, DingDong Bell Weight- lb./kg.

    relevant parts highlighted.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdaddy10028 View Post
    It you buy a new wheels just buy another freewheel too. They are only about 15 bucks and you don't need a tool to put.it on, they just spin on budget tightened by your peddling. Ifyou do want the freewheel remover tool you needle park fr-1 I'm quite sure you have a shimano freewheel on that bike. I was gonna give you link to where I got a set of wheels for 30 bucks each but.it appears they don't have it in stock now. Google dimension 700c freewheel and see what comes up. It's a machine built 32 spoke wheel that has held up.fine.for.me at.235lbs.

    It is a 'sunrace' freewheel 13-34 - and I have googled and googled and they are all OOS that I see with those exact specs. Any help?

    This looks like the 'shimano' equivalent - but I can't find any stock on it anywhere. The bike is brand new 2010. . . where are the parts?

    http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...gequot-777.htm
    Last edited by episodic; 08-10-10 at 05:03 PM.

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  8. #8
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    There's no way to know which length you need. To find that you have to know the exact hub and rim that you have. From there you can google for "online spoke length calculator". You then input the hub type or the sizes of the flanges and any offset along with the Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) for the spoke nipples along with the crossing pattern and the calculator spits out the spoke lengths you need. Sorry but there is no "close enough" since the spokes need to be sized to with 2mm of what you need for length or they won't work.

    Here's a link to a calculator you can download and use....

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

    It's an Excel spreadsheet file and not everyone wants to pay to have Microsoft Office which includes Excel. If you're one of those you can download a nice to use FREE spreadsheet package from www.openoffice.org . It'll install a package of rather nice programs that comprise a spreadsheet that will open and run XLS files. It also contains a program called Writer which is an MS Word like compatible word processor. Alll in all it's a darn nice package for free. Think of it as legally thumbing your nose at Bill Gates for being so rich....

    Anyhow if you can run all that or when you get your bike back if you can measure the length of the existing spokes and then buy the ones you need life will be a lot easier.

    Oh, and keep in mind that if your rims are single U shapes where the spoke heads are just sitting at the bottom of the bead channel then you need to round DOWN or get the one size smaller to ensure that the spoke does not stick up past the head of the nipple when it's fully tensioned. If you booboo on this and it does end up with the spoke poking past the nipple you'll have to grind it down before putting the rim tape back in. The rim tape can only do so much to avoid an internal puncture after all.
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  9. #9
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    Thanks so much for your reply. Almost everything you said is over my head. I was hoping it was 'simple' and if you had this tire you get these spokes. I don't have 'grinders' or workbenches, or any tools beyond a cheap set. Formulaic if you will. It is easier for me to replace the whole rim than worry about his. I'd gladly pay 40 dollars for that rim the guy above linked (found it) if I could get someone to find the freewheel I need.
    7 speed freewheel Megarange 13-34. I'll just buy that and a rim and then they can take their time fixing it. . .

    Soooooo can someone tell me where I get that freewheel at? I'm trying to get this by Friday shipped in. The one on the fuji is a sunrace. I 'guess' shimano would work. I don't know though.

    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    There's no way to know which length you need. To find that you have to know the exact hub and rim that you have. From there you can google for "online spoke length calculator". You then input the hub type or the sizes of the flanges and any offset along with the Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) for the spoke nipples along with the crossing pattern and the calculator spits out the spoke lengths you need. Sorry but there is no "close enough" since the spokes need to be sized to with 2mm of what you need for length or they won't work.

    Here's a link to a calculator you can download and use....

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

    It's an Excel spreadsheet file and not everyone wants to pay to have Microsoft Office which includes Excel. If you're one of those you can download a nice to use FREE spreadsheet package from www.openoffice.org . It'll install a package of rather nice programs that comprise a spreadsheet that will open and run XLS files. It also contains a program called Writer which is an MS Word like compatible word processor. Alll in all it's a darn nice package for free. Think of it as legally thumbing your nose at Bill Gates for being so rich....

    Anyhow if you can run all that or when you get your bike back if you can measure the length of the existing spokes and then buy the ones you need life will be a lot easier.

    Oh, and keep in mind that if your rims are single U shapes where the spoke heads are just sitting at the bottom of the bead channel then you need to round DOWN or get the one size smaller to ensure that the spoke does not stick up past the head of the nipple when it's fully tensioned. If you booboo on this and it does end up with the spoke poking past the nipple you'll have to grind it down before putting the rim tape back in. The rim tape can only do so much to avoid an internal puncture after all.

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  10. #10
    It's MY mountain DiabloScott's Avatar
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    Here's the tool for your freewheel. I usually double wrenched for about a 2-foot lever arm and stepped on it. Make sure you put the quick release on the end so it doesn't slip off.


    http://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=4&item=FR-1

    As for the spoke length, I don't see generic Fuji hubs or rims in any of the spoke length calculators - it might be in your owner's manual. Best thing to do is ask the shop what length they used and buy some more of those. Non drive side is almost always 2mm longer than drive side, and the front will be a third size; buy all three if you're really breaking them but spokes usually break when the wheel is bad (rim flattened for example) or they're corroded. I know a few people who have extra spokes around just in case but hardly ever get used. If you're going to buy an extra set of wheels then you can afford to have one set at the shop getting fixed; then you won't need to stock spokes.

    You'll need to know the rear hub dimension to buy a new set of wheels too, I don't see that on the Fuji site but 7-speed is probably 126mm and those will be a little harder to find and honestly will cost almost as much as buying another whole bike at the MSRP for your Fuji.
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  11. #11
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    So that wheel that the guy earlier linked to will not work? Sigh. I was happy just get get a new wheel and new freewheel and rim and be done with it.

    http://www.amazon.com/Dimension-Form.../dp/B001CK2JOW


    I'm just really frustrated. Of course the shop is closed, and if I want to get this ordered 2nd day air, I'd have to basically order tonight to get it here before the weekend, which the more I dig - the more I find out that for some reason I just can't order parts for my bike simply. Is there a way I can call fuji and get this stuff? I don't see anywhere on their site to order. This is brand new and I can't even seem to find a part for it. I'm not upset here, you guys are great. I'm just upset because honestly, I'd pay good money to just get this simple problem fixed, but I'm stuck. Sigh.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiabloScott View Post
    Here's the tool for your freewheel. I usually double wrenched for about a 2-foot lever arm and stepped on it. Make sure you put the quick release on the end so it doesn't slip off.


    http://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=4&item=FR-1

    As for the spoke length, I don't see generic Fuji hubs or rims in any of the spoke length calculators - it might be in your owner's manual. Best thing to do is ask the shop what length they used and buy some more of those. Non drive side is almost always 2mm longer than drive side, and the front will be a third size; buy all three if you're really breaking them but spokes usually break when the wheel is bad (rim flattened for example) or they're corroded. I know a few people who have extra spokes around just in case but hardly ever get used. If you're going to buy an extra set of wheels then you can afford to have one set at the shop getting fixed; then you won't need to stock spokes.

    You'll need to know the rear hub dimension to buy a new set of wheels too, I don't see that on the Fuji site but 7-speed is probably 126mm and those will be a little harder to find and honestly will cost almost as much as buying another whole bike at the MSRP for your Fuji.
    Last edited by episodic; 08-10-10 at 05:24 PM.

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  12. #12
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    You may need to look around a little but this online store has an assortment including a 14 to 28 Megarange freewheel.

    http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.a...ange+Freewheel

    Personally I'd rather go for this more regular 13-28 non Megarange but if you are using the big 34 tooth cog regularly then go for it.

    http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.a...tain+Freewheel

    They are listing 2 to 5 business days so it's likely going to be a bit of a gamble to have it by Friday since you're looking at Wednesday now for ordering.
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  13. #13
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    Thanks, I'll call them 1st thing and see if they can ship a wheel to go along with it.


    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    You may need to look around a little but this online store has an assortment including a 14 to 28 Megarange freewheel.

    http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.a...ange+Freewheel

    Personally I'd rather go for this more regular 13-28 non Megarange but if you are using the big 34 tooth cog regularly then go for it.

    http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.a...tain+Freewheel

    They are listing 2 to 5 business days so it's likely going to be a bit of a gamble to have it by Friday since you're looking at Wednesday now for ordering.

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  14. #14
    Senior Member cyclist2000's Avatar
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    You need to measure the distance between the rear forks that hold on the rear wheel. The wheel on your link is 130 mm, the older hubs that I am familiar with had a width of 126 mm for 5-7 speeds and 130mm for 8-10, it is important to get the proper size, since your frame is aluminum it should not be bent or widened to fit a wider hub.

    You might look at another bike shop that can cut and thread a spoke for you and get it while you are there.
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    It's MY mountain DiabloScott's Avatar
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    If you got your Fuji from a dealer, he should be able to get another set of identical wheels from his rep.
    Tell him you want the whole deal including freewheel, rim tape, tubes, and tires.
    That way you'll know everything will be right.
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  16. #16
    It's MY mountain DiabloScott's Avatar
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    If you got your Fuji from a dealer, he should be able to get another set of identical wheels from his rep.
    Tell him you want the whole deal including freewheel, rim tape, tubes, and tires.
    That way you'll know everything will be right.



    Quote Originally Posted by cyclist2000 View Post
    The wheel on your link is 130 mm, the
    I've never seen a 130mm freewheel hub (except for a flip-flop singlespeed) - where does it say that?

    This bike sells for $340, it's going to be hard to find a set of wheels complete with tires and freewheel that are going to be much cheaper than buying a whole new bike as a backup.
    Last edited by DiabloScott; 08-10-10 at 05:41 PM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiabloScott View Post
    If you got your Fuji from a dealer, he should be able to get another set of identical wheels from his rep.
    Tell him you want the whole deal including freewheel, rim tape, tubes, and tires.
    That way you'll know everything will be right.
    I guess I'm just trying to get back on it fast. It seems it is going to take over a week or more to get this resolved. Everything seems to take forever ordered that way, I just really wanted to get back on fast.

    I finally got up to 20 miles riding, and now by the time I get the bike back I'll be out of shape again lol. I guess I'm just going to chill out and wait.

    Good advice, I'll ask about the replacement rim from the dealer.

    I went into this not replacing a truck that had the transmission burn out because I was willing to use this as transportation and loose weight, so I don't have another vehicle now. I thought anything that went wrong with a bike would be a simple quick fix. I'm walking now - and well that is too slow Took me an hour to walk to work (vs a 20 minute ride). I hate walking. . .


    Thanks everyone. Now that I see this can't really be a simple quick thing without ordering stuff that I don't know what I'm ordering, I'll just leave it alone. I will call about ordering that freewheel for 20 because it is 'so rare' it seems I'll need it someday for something I'm sure.

    I know it is only a 300 dollar bike, but that was alot for me at the time, sorry.
    Last edited by episodic; 08-10-10 at 05:46 PM.

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  18. #18
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    The biggest issue you have is that the bike is not at home where you can easily measure all the parts you need and then order up the stuff you want. It's easy to measure the distance between the dropouts and instantly know the rear axle spacing. But not so easy when it's not sitting next to you.

    The tool DiabloScot showed you is the right one for Shimano but it may not remove your Sunrace freewheel unless someone can confirm that they are Shimano compatible. Also you don't need any tool to install a freewheel, just to remove it. To install it you just do it up finger tight and the first time you stand on a pedal to do a fast get away it'll torque down the threads just fine. Did anyone mention that you want to liberally grease the freewheel threads before installing it? We should have.
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  19. #19
    It's MY mountain DiabloScott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    The tool DiabloScot showed you is the right one for Shimano but it may not remove your Sunrace freewheel unless someone can confirm that they are Shimano compatible.
    It's confirmed in the link I included with the photo.

    And the issue is, Episodic could wind up spending a lot of money on extra wheels and tools that he could put to better use buying a backup bike. $300 is a lot to him so maybe a used clunker would be a better idea than extra wheels.

    And even at 315 pounds he shouldn't be breaking spokes with enough frequency that all this would be necessary. He probably just got a set that wasn't tensioned up properly and once the bike shop is done they'll be fine.
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  20. #20
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    An excellent point. Cheap machine built wheels are what I like to call "loosely assembled for packaging convienience". I'd missed the bit about the weight but even a regular svelte 180 lb rider should not just mount up a factory cheapie wheel and expect it to work flawlessly. A visit to a good wheel tuner for stress relieving, tensioning and trueing is time and money well spent to avoid future troubles.

    And thanks for confirming that the tool is good for both. I didn't go look at the link, just the picture.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    The biggest issue you have is that the bike is not at home where you can easily measure all the parts you need and then order up the stuff you want. It's easy to measure the distance between the dropouts and instantly know the rear axle spacing. But not so easy when it's not sitting next to you.

    The tool DiabloScot showed you is the right one for Shimano but it may not remove your Sunrace freewheel unless someone can confirm that they are Shimano compatible. Also you don't need any tool to install a freewheel, just to remove it. To install it you just do it up finger tight and the first time you stand on a pedal to do a fast get away it'll torque down the threads just fine. Did anyone mention that you want to liberally grease the freewheel threads before installing it? We should have.
    I wish I lived where you guys live. There is no craigslist here. When a bike 'rarely' pop up in the classifieds of the local paper it is usually a wore out big box bike . . . . I literally never see any bikes like what you guys have in mind around here. I know what you are talking about, I've visited craigslist for big cities 8 hours from me and literally drool. I just have no real way of getting out there. When I say 300 something is alot - it is for one month of riding so far
    Last edited by episodic; 08-10-10 at 06:50 PM.

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  22. #22
    Senior Member cyclist2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiabloScott View Post

    I've never seen a 130mm freewheel hub (except for a flip-flop singlespeed) - where does it say that?
    It says it right in the title 130mm 32h.
    I don't do vintage, I bought them new, rode them, kept them. Now they are just old bikes
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/sets/72157623483647522/

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    It's MY mountain DiabloScott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclist2000 View Post
    It says it right in the title 130mm 32h.
    Oh, you're looking at the link for the proposed replacement wheel, and I was looking at the wheel specs in the link for his actual bike; sorry I got mixed up.

    If we could verify that he has a 130mm spacing on his bike, then he has a lot more choices in wheels because he could go 7-speed cassette.
    http://diabloscott.blogspot.com/

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    gonna send you a pm, I may have a wheel I can sell you cheap. it's got 100 miles on it tops and has the 14-34 freewheel on it already.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclist2000 View Post
    You need to measure the distance between the rear forks that hold on the rear wheel. The wheel on your link is 130 mm, the older hubs that I am familiar with had a width of 126 mm for 5-7 speeds and 130mm for 8-10, it is important to get the proper size, since your frame is aluminum it should not be bent or widened to fit a wider hub.

    You might look at another bike shop that can cut and thread a spoke for you and get it while you are there.
    The measurements you mentioned are for road bikes. Since this is a hybid my guess is that it has a 135mm spacing.

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