Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
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I don't know why you started a new thread, when folks have been trying to help, but I'll try again.
Let's clear some brush so we can get at an answer for you.
First of all, determine what chain-line you need
. Measure from the inside of the right dropout to your single rear sprocket, and subtract that from 65mm (half the 130mm width) to get the chainline distance from the centerline.
Now, there are two ways to approach the crank centerline
. You can measure what you have, (measure from the chainring tooth to a frame tube, and add 1/2 the diameter) and determine how much shorter a spindle you need. Then go to this reference
to see what the nearest choice would be. Note that you're concerned with the right side end to bearing distance, not overall length. For example if you have a square taper 3S spindle and it's 4mm too long, you'd replace with a 3K spindle, or the nearest possible choice.
Or you can look up the crank specs,
and they should tell you the suggested spindle and centerline. Note that the suggested c-line spec's for the crank may not be appropriate for your bike if your rear sprocket is on a different c-line, so you may have to make an adjustment, using the chart to find the right alternative.
Whatever calculations you do, it's important to know where you need to end up, and where you're starting from, so you know how to get there, and can adjust accordingly. Anything other than that is working blind.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance
Last edited by FBinNY; 08-11-10 at 09:13 AM.