Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1381 Post(s)
As you imply knowing already, it's a combination of the chain coming from the extreme outside to the inner. Generally it's best to avoid riding crossed over, but there are situations where you might want to for a while, and IMO a bike should be set up so you can.
You have two choices.
You can modify the chainline but I'd check first to see on which side of dead center it is already. If it's already toward the outside of the cassette's center, you might not want to move it farther out, lest performance on the inner cassette sprockets suffers.
You might also use small shims to increase the chainring separation a hair, but be careful not to add so much that the chain hangs on shifts to the 34t chainring.
In your shoes, I'd start by checking the chainline. If it's a bit inboard, and was easy to correct I'd go ahead and move it out, but otherwise I'd probably just live with things as they are.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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