Chain Slipping
08-14-10, 04:52 PM
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Chain Slipping
Hi just replaced my chain and cassette went from a shimano 105 12/25 to a shimano ultegra 11/25. The reason I changed is because my old chain was stretched out I put about 2800 miles on it without cleaning it once
So I replaced the chain and cassette now whenever I put a significant amount of torque on the drive-train when in my middle crank (39 teeth) it slips. For instance when starting from a standstill and trying to get to full speed as quickly as possible the chain slips off the front gears it doesn't fall off completely it just slips a couple of teeth. Any idea why?
So I replaced the chain and cassette now whenever I put a significant amount of torque on the drive-train when in my middle crank (39 teeth) it slips. For instance when starting from a standstill and trying to get to full speed as quickly as possible the chain slips off the front gears it doesn't fall off completely it just slips a couple of teeth. Any idea why?
08-14-10, 05:13 PM
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Chainrings wear the same way cassettes do. Depending on how far your original chain stretched, how you distributed chainring use between the inner and outer rings, the style of riding it isn't rare for inners to wear out.
They also tend to wear faster than outers, because you're on the inner when climbing, so they tend to get used with the chain at higher tension than the outer.
You can confirm the diagnosis a few ways.
1- eyeball. If the teeth are asymmetrical and look more like a series of sharks teeth, it's toast.
2- chain play test. Use a screwdriver to gently lift the chain out from the chainring at the front (1/2 the wrap). If you can lift it clear a 1/4" or so, it's toast.
3- remove and flip the chainring. The bolt heads will stick out but as long as they clear the chainstay it's OK for these purposes. If the chain holds running on the flipped teeth you know for sure. Now you can either use the flipped ring a while longer, or replace it immediately.
BTW- if the chainring passes all the tests, then you need to consider what else you might have changed when you changed the chain.
Chainrings wear the same way cassettes do. Depending on how far your original chain stretched, how you distributed chainring use between the inner and outer rings, the style of riding it isn't rare for inners to wear out.
They also tend to wear faster than outers, because you're on the inner when climbing, so they tend to get used with the chain at higher tension than the outer.
You can confirm the diagnosis a few ways.
1- eyeball. If the teeth are asymmetrical and look more like a series of sharks teeth, it's toast.
2- chain play test. Use a screwdriver to gently lift the chain out from the chainring at the front (1/2 the wrap). If you can lift it clear a 1/4" or so, it's toast.
3- remove and flip the chainring. The bolt heads will stick out but as long as they clear the chainstay it's OK for these purposes. If the chain holds running on the flipped teeth you know for sure. Now you can either use the flipped ring a while longer, or replace it immediately.
BTW- if the chainring passes all the tests, then you need to consider what else you might have changed when you changed the chain.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
08-14-10, 05:47 PM
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Can I just replace the one chainring or two chainrings if I choose to replace the 30 as well? Also I currently have FSA cranks and rings will ultegra rings be compatible?
Last edited by Joseph Vigue; 08-14-10 at 06:03 PM.
08-14-10, 09:42 PM
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Replace the one(s) ring that slips. It will slip while the rear cassette is in several gears. You're going to have to remove the crank and the 30 ring to get the middle ring off. The 30 is cheap. If it you use it much, replace it, too, since it has to come off anyway. Shimano rings (of the same BCD) will work on your FSA crank.
