Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Chain snapped.

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    15
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Chain snapped.

    My chain snapped on the way to work today. I have a link removal tool, but the links in my chain aren't of the sort that have a split pin across them.

    I know I will be able to remove the dodgy link which is now slightly bent with the tool, but once I push the pin back into the link I don't have anyway of securing it to make sure it doesn't come out again.

    It looks like the edge of each pin on the links is slightly pressed, like a rivet maybe to keep it in.

    I have contacted the manufacturers as the bike is only a couple weeks old and they are sending me out a replacement. Im guessing this may take a few days, so I'm just looking for a bodge to keep it going in the mean time.

    Any ideas??

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    25,777
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Get a SRAM or KMC master link of the correct width. Push out the bent pin and remove any damaged links and replace the pin(s) with a master link. Check to be sure the chain isn't too short to allow big-big or be CERTAIN not to use that combination until the chain is replaced with a new one of the correct length.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    15
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Get a SRAM or KMC master link of the correct width. Push out the bent pin and remove any damaged links and replace the pin(s) with a master link. Check to be sure the chain isn't too short to allow big-big or be CERTAIN not to use that combination until the chain is replaced with a new one of the correct length.
    Chain is more than long enough to remove the nasty link. I was looking for a quick fix so I can ride home from work. I think I sorted it good enough though.

    The bike is an A2B metro with hub motor, so I don't even need to use the pedals if worst comes to worst, like I had to do this afternoon on the way in.

    Thanks anyways, should have new one on it tommorow, as they have sent the replacement under warrenty today.

  4. #4
    LBS Employee/Commuter
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Madison Heights, MI
    My Bikes
    2007 Trek Soho, 2010 Gary Fisher Monona w/ Xtracycle FreeRadical, 198X Facet BioTour 2000
    Posts
    243
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Do not remove the pin completely from the chain. Push it with your chain breaker until the pin is only hanging on to the hole on the innermost plate (so that the inside part can be removed. Remove the broken bits, snug it up and push the pin back through. If you take the pin all the way out, you'll never get it back in. With this method, the link will be stiff at first but will eventually loosen back up.

  5. #5
    Cat 6 Steve Katzman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    My Bikes
    Scott CR-1, Serotta Legend, Serotta CR, Co-Motion Speedster tandem, Masi Nuevo Strada fixie
    Posts
    219
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For a temporary fix, just use your chain tool to push the pin back into the opposing link, from which it came. It is a slight interference fit so it should stay in there. There is virtually no load in the pin's axial direction. Just check for a tight link when finished. Your chain tool should have the capability to loosen a tight link if necessary.
    There are 10 kinds of people ... those that understand binary and those that don't.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    25,777
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bjoerges View Post
    With this method, the link will be stiff at first but will eventually loosen back up.
    With this method used on a modern derailleur chain, (7/8-speed or newer) you are certain to have the chain fail again and sooner rather than later.

    The OP's bike has a motor hub so I don't know what type, brand or design of chain it has but the general rule for current chains is that you NEVER reuse a pin that has been pushed out, even if you don't remove it entirely at first. You rejoin the chain with a special joining pin (Shimano and Campy) or a master link (SRAM, KMC, Wippermann).

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    15
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the advice guys... chain seems to be holding up since. Just waiting for the replacement to arrive. I am tempted to leave the chain on until it fails again. Seeing as I always have the hub motor which will glide me home at 20mph isnt too much of an issue if it fails a bit away from my destination.

    One thing I did notice when I was repairing the chain, was the tensioner on it seems to be offset. Meaning the chain is not linear from the tensioner to the rear sprocket. Maybe about 10-15 degree angle when on the highest gear (further out from centre of the wheel). I am planning on contacting ultramotor to see what there opinions are of this.

    In my opinion a chain should be as linear as possible, chains arent design to have laterial movements. The chain broke in a way the would enforce this. The two slide plates around the pin seem to have spread and bent outwards. This would indicate the laterial movement on the chain is damaging the links. Bad engineering!

    I notice on the top part of the tensioner, the sprocket slides but on the bottom half which leads to the derailluier it is fixed. Surely if the sprocket had to be in a fixed position it should be in the middle of the chain gear on the rear wheel meaning that when in the middle gear it is perfectly linear, and slightly out in the top and bottom gears, causing less lateral wear to the chain. At the moment the sprocket seems to be in line with the lowest gear or maybe even further in(closes to the middle of the wheel) and seeing as it is the gear which I use least seems a little pointless.

    Btw I did pop the pin all the way out, but I also managed to get it back in, although I do have a few workshops and tools available to me at work lol..

    what your guys opinions of the chain and the set-up? I have included a link to picture of the set-up below.

    http://www.bendelectricvehicles.com/....132215705.jpg
    Last edited by A2BMetro; 09-06-10 at 02:49 PM.

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    15
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    up

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •