Originally Posted by Yellowbeard
*Edit: one trick you can use to make it simpler is to put washers on the axle and then tighten a skewer through it with the wheel out of the bike. Then the skewer compresses the axle the same as when it's in the bike and you can feel the resistance in the bearings with your fingers.
I use this method but I believe it only works if you REadjust the skewer to tighten the same way whether the hub is in the washers or the bike.
I readjust the skewer (because of moving from bike to washers) so it starts tightening at the halfway point when checking cone adjustment, then when I put the wheel back in the bike, I readjust again so it still tightens at the halfway point despite the slight difference in the thickness of the dropouts vs. the washers.
The point is so you could gauge cone adjustment by twirling the axle in your fingertips. I personally believe when testing adjustment with the skewer tight, you should aim for having no slack but just enough preload so you could feel the bearing balls are in firm contact with the cup and cone. With low to midrange bikes this means you can feel all the lumpy irregularity of the bearing balls. I usually find this point by backing the cone off only a few degrees from the point where it touches the balls.
Last edited by garage sale GT; 09-09-10 at 05:40 PM.