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  1. #1
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    MA40 Rebuild - Spoke Type?

    First, a little background my wheels: Last winter, the original front rim on my Centurion roadie gave way (old corroded spoke nipple led to sort of a blowout; now there's a gash where the spoke hole used to be). The bike's rear rim is a Mavic MA40. These Mavics are now rare - so I was really glad to find another locally for a matching set. However, this 'new' one was built up as a rear. I couldn't use my old front hub either (it had 32h and the Mavic I found has 36h). I ordered the correct 36h Shimano front hub from Ebay and it's due to arrive shortly.

    On to my question: Now that I've got the right parts for a rebuild, what kind of spokes should I use? I'm thinking Wheelsmith Aero ... but would these work for a build using 700c Mavic MA40 36h + Shimano 600 36h hub (model HB-6207)?

    If that's a bad idea (or the bike store is out of the Wheelsmith Aero), any other spoke suggestions?
    * Road: 1989 Centurion Master Ironman
    * Tour/Commute: 1980s Nishiki Continetal

  2. #2
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    I would build it up with 15-16 guage double butted spokes. With 36 spokes you are going to have a long lasting wheel.

  3. #3
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    bladed spokes need a slot cut in each spoke hole to get the blade thru.

    yea just get 14/15/14 DB spokes.. if you are a featherweight, 15/16/15,
    or be clever DB14 on right, DB15 on left.
    Sapim, DT, WS, etc , all good.

  4. #4
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubesor View Post
    If that's a bad idea (or the bike store is out of the Wheelsmith Aero), any other spoke suggestions?
    I would not use aero spokes on a 36-spoke MA-40 rim. It's a waste of money- they won't make any difference and they make it tough on the wheelbuilder. 14 gauge (2.0mm) diameter will work fine on a Shimano hub, 14/15/14 double-butted if you want to shave some grams. 15 gauge spokes are a little small for the standard Shimano spoke hole, but you can use them if you're light, like Bob says.

    FWIW: I have a Shimano 600 HB-6207 36-hole front hub in my bin o' parts. If what you get isn't what you wanted (it is Ebay, after all), PM or email me.
    Jeff Wills

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    bladed spokes need a slot cut in each spoke hole to get the blade thru.

    yea just get 14/15/14 DB spokes.. if you are a featherweight, 15/16/15,
    or be clever DB14 on right, DB15 on left.
    Sapim, DT, WS, etc , all good.
    i'm not a super featherweight or anything ... 165 lbs or so. would that still work with 15/16/15 or a bad idea?
    * Road: 1989 Centurion Master Ironman
    * Tour/Commute: 1980s Nishiki Continetal

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubesor View Post
    i'm not a super featherweight or anything ... 165 lbs or so. would that still work with 15/16/15 or a bad idea?
    Go with 14-15-14 gauge (2.0-1.8-2.0 mm) or straight 14 gauge if you want to save money. A 2 mm spoke (14 gauge) at the hub will have more strength where needed, more dependability, less chance of stretching.
    Bladed spokes are a waste and too heavy on a 36 spoke wheel.

  7. #7
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    the most tension is the Right rear spokes a scosh heaver on that side of the wheel bit stronger on the hook, given thats where some spokes go

    I've got a 25 year old wheel with 36 straight gage , 3 X , 15's. so could do fine

    I admit its sporty, E2 [non CD version of same rim]
    I don't haul cargo on that bike. ... You know, Your MMV .

    of course if you want to try to build rather different wheels , as 36 count.
    36 also lets there be groups of 3 spokes. ...How about Crows foot..
    group= 1 radial spoke and 2x2 cross. perhaps.. what the heck ..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 09-21-10 at 10:30 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    the most tension is the Right rear spokes a scosh heaver on that side of the wheel bit stronger on the hook, given thats where some spokes go
    He said he's building a front wheel dude.

  9. #9
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Light duty go fast sort of feel, the 15Ga plain ga has been fine .. Built them 20 years ago ...

    36 radial spokes, perhaps, ? since first wish was bladed spoke , radial will give that kind of image..

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    The local mechanic will build up a straight 14 gauge wheel, probably using DT spokes. They weren't sure what/how to build a 14-15-14 wheel. I wish I had the time and tools to build my own wheel, perhaps I'll do next time around.

    Anyway, I hope the 14-gauge spokes will make for a solid wheel that's not too heavy.

    I'll end up with a weird combo of 36h front / 32h rear, but at least I could use the parts I had available and my Centurion will be back on the road, with matching rims for once.
    * Road: 1989 Centurion Master Ironman
    * Tour/Commute: 1980s Nishiki Continetal

  11. #11
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Light duty go fast sort of feel, the 15Ga plain ga has been fine .. Built them 20 years ago ...

    36 radial spokes, perhaps, ? since first wish was bladed spoke , radial will give that kind of image..

    I'll never build another 36-spoke radial wheel again. There's not enough material to hold the flange together. I was truing and tensioning the wheel one evening and the flange exploded, sending shrapnel through the air and my hair.
    Jeff Wills

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  12. #12
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    My little Brompton Wheels are seemingly fine with radial spokes on their front ,

    Budget Shimano hubs may not be up for this type pattern, and this anecdotal problem.. others are Ok with it.


    Seems like Cross racers like them . no spoke crossing to collect grasses in them .. lots of them on Shimano Hubs.

    maybe 32 or 28 is different as holes drilled in flange is not as frequent..

  13. #13
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubesor View Post
    The local mechanic will build up a straight 14 gauge wheel, probably using DT spokes. They weren't sure what/how to build a 14-15-14 wheel. I wish I had the time and tools to build my own wheel, perhaps I'll do next time around.

    Anyway, I hope the 14-gauge spokes will make for a solid wheel that's not too heavy.

    I'll end up with a weird combo of 36h front / 32h rear, but at least I could use the parts I had available and my Centurion will be back on the road, with matching rims for once.
    If I was starting with a 36h hub rather than a rim, I'd have laced it to a 24h rim.

    Built a wheel a while back like that, 15/16 (almost) radial on a 600 hub. Held up fine, but I'm only 65kg.

  14. #14
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al1943 View Post
    Go with 14-15-14 gauge (2.0-1.8-2.0 mm) or straight 14 gauge if you want to save money. A 2 mm spoke (14 gauge) at the hub will have more strength where needed, more dependability, less chance of stretching.
    Bladed spokes are a waste and too heavy on a 36 spoke wheel.
    14-15-14 or S-15...

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

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    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubesor View Post
    i'm not a super featherweight or anything ... 165 lbs or so. would that still work with 15/16/15 or a bad idea?
    I built a 36 hole rear wheel for a 230 pounder with 15 guage double butted spokes and he is happy as a clam with it. Has over 4k miles on it now.

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