evblazer

Anyone know where I can get a suitable bearing or tools to fix it? I see peter whites page has the bracket but not bearings/races and such.

I recently got as a present of sorts a merlin road bike which is absolutely the nicest bike I've ever owned. I came to find out after searching the internet for help it was from the days they did pressed in bearings/BB because they used the same size BB shell as the rest of the bike due to limits in Ti sizes they could get, or so the theory goes on the web. Merlin no longer carries replacement parts or tools and the original place to get them no longer makes them and/or is out of business.

What is happening is after about 200 miles into riding my new bike it the bearings started shifting to the right and at 5mm or so shift the left crank whacks the left chainstay. I didn't get it there but I trust my LBS shop and they were able to use some old Klien press in bearing tools to recenter it but couldn't offer me any more help. I have about 400 or so more miles on and it has been slowly creaping right over the last 100 miles or so. It isn't hitting the chainstay yet but it is much closer then after my LBS fixed it.

The bike has not been dropped or crashed by me although that is the line the shop who last sold it is spewing. I just need it fixed really. Merlin does have an upgrade program to replace the bottom bracket shell $$$ but in two weeks of calling their local dealer they can't or won't get any info on it.

RockyMtnMerlin

Try calling Merlin directly at 888.5MERLIN. They have been very responsive to me on the few questions I have asked them.

melville

There should be snap rings on both sides to keep the bearings from shifting in the shell. These are internal rings that snap into grooves in the shell. Available at your better hardware and auto parts stores.

The bearings themselves should be # 6903, a good standard metric size. Available from any good bearing house or a really good LBS.

The spindle diameter should be 17mm, same as Klein and Phil. As your LBS is fluent in Klein, on the off chance that your spindle is bogus, get a Klein of the appropriate length.

Try a search--it seems like one of you poor Merlin owners posts about this every three months.

evblazer

Thanks I just talked to merlin, phone works better then emails or google searches in this stuff I guess.
Mine unfortunately isn't a snap ring one. It is just tapped in bearings so it could just be shifting by my own weight. Not to say snap rings couldn't be added perhaps someone just left them off by the merlin chap did mention they did some without snap rings.

They did give me a bearing # I wrote down 6901 hmm. Also mentioned phil wood has a spindle. Oh and over $700 for the new bottom bracket shell due to all the work which makes sence but sure wouldnt' be an option for me. My LBS mechanic wants to call them himself though so I'll give him their # and who I talked to when I check in the bike which means I'll have both my bikes out of service

And it's been almost 5 months since the last post Although I didn't find that one when I searched before.

white lobster

Yeah, some of those used a press-fit sleeve on the inside of the spindle to keep from "walking" to one side or the other. There's a special tool that'll shove this sleeve onto a pretty standard Phil axle. It's been years since I've done it, so I don't remember the details too well.

Back in the mid 90s, Merlin offered to replace those bb shells for a nominal fee, which included new frame decals and a good polishing. The shop I worked at sent dozens back. It was a great deal.

RockyMtnMerlin

I'm not rich but I'm not a poor Merlin owner. I rather like the one I have ridden 23000 miles with no problems.

melville

No doubt they are neat bikes. I'm a little put out that they don't support their product in the one spot where it varies from standard, seeing as the frames should last FOREVER. Not that I need their support, but I bring some non-bicycle mechanical experience. Most shops do need some support to handle this one.

I'd forgotten about the BB shell replacement deal. Good idea if you want to get away from square taper cranks, but $700!?!?

HillRider

Considering their new Ti frames cost about $3000 maybe it's not a bad investment.

rhenning

If the bearing is moving after you get it pressed into the correct spot put "green" Locktite around the outside of the bearing and the frame and it will stay in place. Green uses capillary/wicking action to fill the area between the bearing shell and the frame. It still allows you to take it apart but will not come apart by itself. Roger

Dr.Deltron

heh heh . . I was going to say use "red" loctite before you install the bearings.

(My poor Merlin is 531!)

HillRider

Just saying "red" or "green" Loctite is misleading. There are various strengths in both colors and you have to specify the grade number to know what you are getting. As a rule, the red grades are various strength thread lockers and the green grades are various strength wicking types for bearing and shaft fit-up.

Here is Loctite's web site page for their "assembly products". The "threadlockers" are obvious. The "cylindrical assembly" products are the bearing and shaft retaining products.

https://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...id=19&layout=3

bryantracy

Hi Folks

i am new to this site, but my experience is simular. Bought my Merlin with FSA cranks which
i foolishly let loosen up (left side). The aluminum insert wore out such that the 8mm bolt would
not pull down far enough.

Local bike shop to the rescue - they sold me a almost brand new set of Campi cranks which are freakin gorgeous on this bike.
I foolishly let the left crack loosen a tiny bit and when i replaced the bearings last weekend, the 8mm bolt pulls down far enough, but drives my left crank into the titanium shell. I need the "left axle" to be like 1/2mm longer.

Anyone have any cleaver (cheap) ideas? File off a little of the crank? Campi nuts, please
forgive me, I have sinned.

Thanks alot

bryan tracy,
oakland, Ca

fietsbob

Red is their Bearing retaining product. It will be just the thing to do it right , you can press the old bearings out, heating with a heat gun breaks down what Loc Tite may have been used in putting it together..

I'd get a compatible 'Phil Spec', Japan sourced bearing .. then use any of Phil's axles even their Ti ones ..

Phil has a very tight tolerance fit between the ID of the bearing and the OD of the axle..
so the press fit is tight without adhesives .. on the inside.

they can be shifted in the cartridges with the crank arm fixing bolts as a press.