Is it possible to use a hollow QR axle with bolts?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is it possible to use a hollow QR axle with bolts?
Hi,
I just moved my rear fixed wheel from 126 spacing to 122 as well as changing the chainline. I consequently cut off a portion of the hollow axle that I was using on the wheel with a QR skewer.
I know some object to using QR fixed whatsoever but that aside:
I would've thought it was possible that instead of cutting it down to just thread a bolt on either side and secure it that way?
In this case there was not enough thread protruding past the dropouts for the bolts to get enough purchase on, but if there were more would it have been possible?
Thanks for any replies or particularly experiences with this setup.
Cheers,
George
I just moved my rear fixed wheel from 126 spacing to 122 as well as changing the chainline. I consequently cut off a portion of the hollow axle that I was using on the wheel with a QR skewer.
I know some object to using QR fixed whatsoever but that aside:
I would've thought it was possible that instead of cutting it down to just thread a bolt on either side and secure it that way?
In this case there was not enough thread protruding past the dropouts for the bolts to get enough purchase on, but if there were more would it have been possible?
Thanks for any replies or particularly experiences with this setup.
Cheers,
George
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times
in
741 Posts
Even the longest commonly available qr axles (146 mm used with 135 mm OLD hubs) used in a 120 mm OLD hub would be have ineadequate stubs sticking out past the dropout faces for nuts. 146-120 gives 27 mm total excess or 13 mm per side. Allowing for a typical 6 mm dropout thickness only leaves 7 mm past the dropout face or just over 1/4". Not enough.
Even a 151 mm axle intended for a 140 mm tandem hub would only leave a stub of 9.5 mm or about 3/8".
I suppose you could try to locate a 171 mm axle from a 160 mm OLD Santana tandem hub but at some point the cost gets to be far more than buying a proper solid nutted axle.
BTW, use an enclosed cam qr skewer like a Shimano or Campy and be sure it has serrated steel inner faces and you should have no problems with wheel slippage.
Even a 151 mm axle intended for a 140 mm tandem hub would only leave a stub of 9.5 mm or about 3/8".
I suppose you could try to locate a 171 mm axle from a 160 mm OLD Santana tandem hub but at some point the cost gets to be far more than buying a proper solid nutted axle.
BTW, use an enclosed cam qr skewer like a Shimano or Campy and be sure it has serrated steel inner faces and you should have no problems with wheel slippage.
#4
John Wayne Toilet Paper
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Roanoke
Posts: 1,952
Bikes: BH carbon, Ritchey steel, Kona aluminum
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hi,
I just moved my rear fixed wheel from 126 spacing to 122 as well as changing the chainline. I consequently cut off a portion of the hollow axle that I was using on the wheel with a QR skewer.
I know some object to using QR fixed whatsoever but that aside:
I would've thought it was possible that instead of cutting it down to just thread a bolt on either side and secure it that way?
In this case there was not enough thread protruding past the dropouts for the bolts to get enough purchase on, but if there were more would it have been possible?
Thanks for any replies or particularly experiences with this setup.
Cheers,
George
I just moved my rear fixed wheel from 126 spacing to 122 as well as changing the chainline. I consequently cut off a portion of the hollow axle that I was using on the wheel with a QR skewer.
I know some object to using QR fixed whatsoever but that aside:
I would've thought it was possible that instead of cutting it down to just thread a bolt on either side and secure it that way?
In this case there was not enough thread protruding past the dropouts for the bolts to get enough purchase on, but if there were more would it have been possible?
Thanks for any replies or particularly experiences with this setup.
Cheers,
George
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
If you decide to substitute a threaded axle, make sure to get one that has the same thread pitch as your cones and locknuts.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times
in
741 Posts
#8
Senior Member
I would never do this. A hollow axle is much weaker than a solid one. When you tighten nuts on an axle it leaves a twisting force on the axle which makes it susceptible to breaking. A hollow axle would be much more likely to fail.
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1