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Old 09-16-10, 09:33 PM   #1
surreal
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sturmey-archer drum brake questions

hi.

yeah, i searched. i'm incredibly sorry to have posted a new thread; grumpy ppl who berate others for starting new threads without searching, know this: your grouchy posts are just as annoying, and far more redundant. So,please, don't bother chastising me for not searching enough. I searched plenty, and this new thread will give neophyte drum brake ppl a new possibility for finding something during a search.

On to my questions:
-if my frame has brake cable bosses along the top tube, can the rear drum arm be mounted to the seatstay instead of the chainstay? SA shows the arm mounted to the chainstay, but doesn't specify that it must be so. I want to clamp the sucker down to the seatstay, for a cleaner look, but i am terrified that this will compromise performance. (The frame allows for the cable housing to be used without interruption.)
-the double-ended cable is about 400 feet long. if i want this thing to perform well, i'll need to shorten it. this will obviate the double-endedness of the cable. The good folks at SA included a pinch bolt, presumably to replace the end that hooks injto the actuation arm. It seems as though the cylindrical pinch bolt will fit into the same spot that the little cylinder already on the cable does. Am i missing something here?

Thanks in advance,
-rob
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Old 09-16-10, 11:13 PM   #2
Jeff Wills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surreal View Post
On to my questions:
-if my frame has brake cable bosses along the top tube, can the rear drum arm be mounted to the seatstay instead of the chainstay? SA shows the arm mounted to the chainstay, but doesn't specify that it must be so. I want to clamp the sucker down to the seatstay, for a cleaner look, but i am terrified that this will compromise performance. (The frame allows for the cable housing to be used without interruption.)
No problem, but you may have interference between the chainstay and the brake's acutating arm. If everything clears, go for it.


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-the double-ended cable is about 400 feet long. if i want this thing to perform well, i'll need to shorten it. this will obviate the double-endedness of the cable. The good folks at SA included a pinch bolt, presumably to replace the end that hooks injto the actuation arm. It seems as though the cylindrical pinch bolt will fit into the same spot that the little cylinder already on the cable does. Am i missing something here?
No. Go for it. If you want to fancy up the bike with red or blue cable housing, you'll need the pincho bolt to do this.
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Old 09-17-10, 07:34 AM   #3
Mr IGH
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Sturmey Archer drum brakes, yummy, here's the pinch bolt in use:
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Old 09-17-10, 09:28 AM   #4
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Hows the wheel changes going on the back? the puncture repairs (relatively) quick ?


I had no problem with chainstay mount a P clamp on a water-bottle boss serves as a cable guide
+ some tape and zip tie at the chainstay. seemed the smoothest cable route..
and a reusable pin with a spring loaded Ball in the tip,
rather than a nut and bolt holding the reaction arm in the clip around the frame .
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Old 09-17-10, 02:06 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies, everyone. I think i'd be fine with the chainstay mount, except it'd offend my OCD to have the original brake bosses not used. Maybe i'll run the cable to the taillight thru those. Fietsbob, i'm not so sure i know exactly what you mean about your set-up, but it sounds interesting. you got any pics? Either way, i think the hardware that Sturmey-Archer sent with the hub'll do nicely.

As for changing tires, i'm thinking the cable will disengage easily enough, but i could be wrong. I'm stoked to build a thing with drum brakes; i've worked on bikes with them at a shop, but i've never had my own. They seem brilliant for the kinds of riding a do most often.

-rob
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Old 09-17-10, 03:08 PM   #6
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I visit industrial hardware stores, its where I find useful things .
It's Marine Hardware, here, much of it in Stainless .
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