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  1. #1
    Senior Member ClarkinHawaii's Avatar
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    Is this item worthwhile?

    Jagwire Tube Tops:


    to protect headtube from cable rub options:
    1. This item
    2. Vinyl electrical tape wrapped neatly around the cable as it is on the spool,
    3. Other . . . ?

  2. #2
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    Other:

    1. Glueless tube patches on the headtube where the cables rub. These are transparent so they don't show.

    2. Cut the cable housing short enough that they will JUST allow the bars to turn fully without binding. That leaves the housing short enough to not touch the headtube in normal riding.

    3. Run the housings to the opposite side downtube cable stop (i.e. the left shifter to the right side stop) then cross the wires under the downtube to get them to the proper side. That way turning the bars moves the housing away from the headtube.

    4. Get a frame with the cable stops mounted either on the headtube or very high on the downtube so the housing never touches it.

  3. #3
    Senior Member ClarkinHawaii's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Other:

    1. Glueless tube patches on the headtube where the cables rub. These are transparent so they don't show.

    2. Cut the cable housing short enough that they will JUST allow the bars to turn fully without binding. That leaves the housing short enough to not touch the headtube in normal riding.

    3. Run the housings to the opposite side downtube cable stop (i.e. the left shifter to the right side stop) then cross the wires under the downtube to get them to the proper side. That way turning the bars moves the housing away from the headtube.

    4. Get a frame with the cable stops mounted either on the headtube or very high on the downtube so the housing never touches it.
    Hey, Dave, You're a clever guy!

    Along the line of your suggestion #1, I have purchased a 10-pack of
    Wheels Manufacturing Chainstay Protector Clear

    21%2BpDTll0oL._SS500_..jpgwith the idea of cutting small patches out of the extra chainstay protectors and using them instead of the dedicated patches. The problem I have found is there is no tab or other means of peeling off the backing. By the time you finish bending and digging at it trying to get the backing off, then touching it trying to get it lined up right, the adhesive is no longer perfect (especially where you had to touch it) and looks cloudy in the "damaged" areas after application. A real POS in my opinion--$2.30 each (in 10-pack) for about 10 cents worth of product. I expected better things from WM, but this product is a dog.

    I planned on putting these on the top tubes as well as the chainstays, so I could lean bike without marring paint. I figure for my next attempt at using them I will use a razor blade to start the separation, then just try hard to handle only by edges and hope for the best.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClarkinHawaii View Post
    I figure for my next attempt at using them I will use a razor blade to start the separation, then just try hard to handle only by edges and hope for the best.
    Yeah, that's the best way to start peeling the backing without damaging the adhesive. Also be sure to round the corners instead of leaving them a sharp 90 degrees. That way they don't tend to peel off once in place.

  5. #5
    Practical Cyclist `Orum's Avatar
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    Seeing as the rubbing is between the cables and the frame, I think the only way to really protect the frame is to actually place something over it, and not over the cables.

  6. #6
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    Yeah Clark, I use the same clear chainstay protectors. Cut 'em and stick 'em wherever. Cut your pieces a little bigger than you may need, start peeling. If you mess up the start of the adhesive, just cut off the bad part, and you still have what you wanted left.

  7. #7
    Senior Member ClarkinHawaii's Avatar
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    Thanks, Guys!

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