Originally Posted by HillRider
1. Glueless tube patches on the headtube where the cables rub. These are transparent so they don't show.
2. Cut the cable housing short enough that they will JUST allow the bars to turn fully without binding. That leaves the housing short enough to not touch the headtube in normal riding.
3. Run the housings to the opposite side downtube cable stop (i.e. the left shifter to the right side stop) then cross the wires under the downtube to get them to the proper side. That way turning the bars moves the housing away from the headtube.
4. Get a frame with the cable stops mounted either on the headtube or very high on the downtube so the housing never touches it.
Hey, Dave, You're a clever guy!
Along the line of your suggestion #1, I have purchased a 10-pack of
Wheels Manufacturing Chainstay Protector Clear
with the idea of cutting small patches out of the extra chainstay protectors and using them instead of the dedicated patches. The problem I have found is there is no tab or other means of peeling off the backing. By the time you finish bending and digging at it trying to get the backing off, then touching it trying to get it lined up right, the adhesive is no longer perfect (especially where you had to touch it) and looks cloudy in the "damaged" areas after application. A real POS in my opinion--$2.30 each (in 10-pack) for about 10 cents worth of product. I expected better things from WM, but this product is a dog.
I planned on putting these on the top tubes as well as the chainstays, so I could lean bike without marring paint. I figure for my next attempt at using them I will use a razor blade to start the separation, then just try hard to handle only by edges and hope for the best.