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  1. #1
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    Reducing play in Ultegra shifters

    I just purchased a used 2009 Trek Madone 4.7. The bike is great shape and is outfitted mostly with Ultegra components and Ultegra ST6600-G Flight Deck shifters. I've noticed that the left-hand crank shifter has a lot more play in it before engaging, maybe a centimeter or so, than the right-hand rear cassette shifter. Is this normal? How can I reduce the amount of play in the left-hand shifter so that I don't have to stretch to change chain rings?

    Thanks,
    - Lyptus

  2. #2
    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    I got the same ride, but 2008 version. Great rig.

    Have you removed all the slack from the shifter cable? In my setup, I have in-line adjusters as the cables exit the shifters. If you have the same, turn them to effectively lengthen the housing and that will remove slack.

    There are various styles, but often look like this: http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...djusters,.html

  3. #3
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudPie View Post
    I got the same ride, but 2008 version. Great rig.

    Have you removed all the slack from the shifter cable? In my setup, I have in-line adjusters as the cables exit the shifters. If you have the same, turn them to effectively lengthen the housing and that will remove slack.

    There are various styles, but often look like this: http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...djusters,.html
    Assuming that it is an adjustment problem. The OP may also be describing deadspace before *anything* engages that is present on the ultegra and dura ace models. The right hand has the same feature. Some sram shifters do not have this deadspace - they call it zero-loss, a feature.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  4. #4
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    If it shifts well don't mess with it.

  5. #5
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    more ultegra front derailleur issues

    Have you removed all the slack from the shifter cable? In my setup, I have in-line adjusters as the cables exit the shifters. If you have the same, turn them to effectively lengthen the housing and that will remove slack.


    Thanks, I tightened the in-line barrel adjuster all the way and that helped. Now, however, I'm having another problem. When shifting the front derailleur, sometimes it overshifts to the outer and inner chain rings (causing the chain to come off) and sometimes it undershifts. I believe I have corrected the overshifting by tightening both stop screws but I don't understand what would cause under shifting (e.g., it shifts successfully but the chain rubs against the inner side of the derailleur when the chain is on the outer chain ring or against the outer side of the derailleur when the chain is on the inner chain ring). If I shift it back and forth between the two chain rings, eventually it'll shift into the proper position- but what a pain. Any ideas?

  6. #6
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    You don't quite understand how to adjust a FD. If it overshifts to the big ring and throws the chain off to the right, then the big ring limit screw needs to be turned CW. You want just enough clearance between the right side of the cage and the the chain, so it doesn't rub the cage, when the chain is on the smallest cog.

    If the chain won't shift to the little ring, then you may have too much cable tension. It's really best to start over and set the little ring limit screw with the cable detached. You only need a small amount of clearance between the left side of the cage and the chain, with the chain on the largest cog. Too much cable tension could lift the lever arm off the small ring limit screw, rendering it useless.

  7. #7
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lyptus View Post
    I tightened the in-line barrel adjuster all the way and that helped. Now, however, I'm having another problem.
    Your other problem is caused by you changing the barrel adjuster. The adjuster is there for a reason and that reason is not for taking up slack.

    Your problem may also be showing that the outer limit screw isn't set correctly. But don't try to adjust an FD piecemeal. Either set the barrel adjuster back were it was (probably impossible) or go through the whole procedure from scratch.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF View Post
    Your other problem is caused by you changing the barrel adjuster. The adjuster is there for a reason and that reason is not for taking up slack.

    Your problem may also be showing that the outer limit screw isn't set correctly. But don't try to adjust an FD piecemeal. Either set the barrel adjuster back were it was (probably impossible) or go through the whole procedure from scratch.
    Poor advice. The barrel adjuster is used for changing the cable tension, which may include some initial slack. Taking up slack is just as important as attaining the proper tension. You can only pull a cable so tightly by hand and after that, the barrel adjuster takes over. The tension should be increased gradually. If too much is applied, there is no reason you can't go back to some lower setting. Worst case, you can screw the adjuster all the way down and start over.

    It's also possible to adjust a FD with no barrel adjuster at all. After the small ring limit screw is set, deliberately turn the screw in another 1/2 to 1 full turn. Pull the cable firmly with pliers, then clamp it down. Return the limit screw to it's original position and there will be more tension on the cable than you could ever get by pulling on it, by hand. I might take a couple of tries to get the proper tension, but it does work. I had two LOOK 585 frames with no barrel adjusters and set mine up many times with this technique.

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