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  1. #1
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    Need Shimano Hyperdrive-C, 38T middle chain-ring

    I have a 1993 Gary Fisher Advance Mountain Bike. It came with a Shimano Hyperdrive-C crankset (Shimano Altus C10, 28/38/48 teeth). I need to replace the middle chain-ring (38T). It is mounted with 5 bolts. Can someone please point me to a source (pref. product/part page link) where I can order this chain-ring?
    Thx!
    BTW: Is there a heavier-duty version of this chain-ring avail.?
    Here's a pic of the crankset on my GF:
    Last edited by hollowman; 09-26-10 at 03:55 AM.

  2. #2
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    Those chainrings look like they are not replacable. (The current Altus cranks no not have replacable chainrings.) To get replacable chainrings you will need to uprgade to at least Acera.

  3. #3
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    BB size, modern replacement also needed

    Quote Originally Posted by Bezalel View Post
    Those chainrings look like they are not replacable. (The current Altus cranks no not have replacable chainrings.) To get replacable chainrings you will need to uprgade to at least Acera.
    Thx for your reply.
    Can you/anyone suggest a crankset for this bike+BB combo (dunno BB specifics). I don't necess. need a compact crankset (i.e. Hyperdrive C), as on the stock GF bike (shown above). I would like one with a heavier-duty chain-ring set, if possible.
    BTW: Why not Alivio crankset? The other stock components on the 1993 GF bike are Aliv
    BTW2: Can anyone clue me in on this bike's BB size, and modern (suggested) replacement?
    BIG THX!
    Last edited by hollowman; 09-26-10 at 04:52 AM.

  4. #4
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    I believe Bazelal is correct that these chainrings are riveted (not bolted) to the crank arm and are not replacable so you will need a complete new crank. Also, IIRC, these chainrings are steel, not aluminum, and therefore are the most "heavy duty" you can get.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    I believe Bazelal is correct that these chainrings are riveted (not bolted) to the crank arm and are not replacable so you will need a complete new crank. Also, IIRC, these chainrings are steel, not aluminum, and therefore are the most "heavy duty" you can get.
    So a whole crankset it is ... (I really have no choice: the middle CR is missing several teeth, and inner and outer have a few missing as well). Okay, so say I can't find a used OEM off eBay ... and since I'm no loger using the GF as a Mntn Bike (but as a Utility or Hybrid bicycle instead) ... what are the best NEW options? How about these:
    cr407a27sil__150__&#.jpg
    Sugino Impel Triple Crankset
    $41.25
    or how about...
    cr307a06eng__175__&#.jpg
    FSA Dynadrive SQ Taper C-Set Crankset
    $50.00

    Hint: I want to remain a cheapskate with the replacement crankset
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hollowman; 09-26-10 at 02:35 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member mikeybikes's Avatar
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    If you get a new crankset, make sure that the existing BB spindle is the correct length, or get a new bottom bracket.
    My Bikes: 2009 Breezer Uptown EX | 1980 Miyata 610 | 1970 Hercules | 198? Miele ?
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    My Blog, a mix of bicycling, tech, and family.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hollowman View Post
    So a whole crankset it is ... (I really have no choice: the middle CR is missing several teeth, and inner and outer have a few missing as well).
    Well, before you go any further, is the current crank giving you shifting or skipping problems? I ask because most newer cranks (post about 1990 or so) have "shaped" teeth to assist shifting and, if you don't know what you are looking for, they can seem broken or badly worn.

    So, unless the old crank is causing noticable problems, it may be perfectly fine. I.e. If it ain't broke, don't replace it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeshoup View Post
    If you get a new crankset, make sure that the existing BB spindle is the correct length, or get a new bottom bracket.
    Yeah, I'm beginning to see that (via user/customer comments on the product pages). I wish every crankset manuf. stated this in their specs/product description. FSA and Sugino don't seem to offer complete data.
    Last edited by hollowman; 09-26-10 at 11:31 PM.

  9. #9
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    Hey, folks, what do you think of this crankset for replacement:

    cr307a06eng__175__&#.jpg

    FSA DynaDrive Crankset: Sqaure Taper, 175mm, 22-32-44, Black.
    Size: 175mm
    Style: Mountain
    Color: Black
    Weight: 945g
    BB Thread Type: English
    Spindle Interface Type: Square Taper JIS
    Spindle Length: 113,110.5mm
    Pedal Spindle: 9/16
    Bolt Pattern: 4-Bolt
    Chainring BCD: 104mm
    Arm Length: 175mm
    Rings: 22-32-44
    Crank-FD Type: Mountain Triple
    Crank Intended Use: Mountain
    Chain Compatibility: 9-Speed

    Can anyone with experience with this model and/or brand of crankset (FSA) comment on its quality, durability and/or reliability?
    Thx!
    Last edited by hollowman; 10-01-10 at 07:41 AM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Steev's Avatar
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    What are you using the bike for?
    That crankset has smaller rings than your current cranks, using that will effectively lower your entire gearing range.
    If your chainrings are worn, in what condition are you chain and cassette? They will wear past usability much faster than chainrings.
    But, before you go dropping cash, you should read Hillrider's post above. I thought the exact same thing when reading your description of the state of your current rings.

  11. #11
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    OLD chain has to go, step 1.
    you may need a new cassette and perhaps, chainrings, if you let it go way too long.
    replace all 3 and you can start afresh.

    I get long wear out of steel chainrings, myself. with regular replacement of the chain.
    given the wheel rotates multiple times, for every one of the pedals ,
    cogs on back wear faster than those on the front.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steev View Post
    What are you using the bike for?
    That crankset has smaller rings than your current cranks, using that will effectively lower your entire gearing range.
    If your chainrings are worn, in what condition are you chain and cassette? They will wear past usability much faster than chainrings.
    But, before you go dropping cash, you should read Hillrider's post above. I thought the exact same thing when reading your description of the state of your current rings.
    Bike used as util..(see image below) I ride very gently, and all on-road. I don't need bike to go fast.
    Cassette is Shimano HG70 7-spd. Current chain, which I replace every 6mos, is Shimano HG91. FYI: Use Conti Top Touring tires and Sun Rhyno Lite rims. Deore hubs. Deore XT rear derail.
    As I stated above, the middle CR is missing teeth (at least 6 as of last count). Yes, I have shifting (and skipping / jumping) problems, despite critically aligning gears when chain is new. And, of course (given age and use), all CRs are worn.
    Stomp_pedals..JPG

    Bike_refelector_&#11.JPG
    Last edited by hollowman; 10-01-10 at 06:46 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    OLD chain has to go, step 1.
    you may need a new cassette and perhaps, chainrings, if you let it go way too long.
    replace all 3 and you can start afresh.

    I get long wear out of steel chainrings, myself. with regular replacement of the chain.
    given the wheel rotates multiple times, for every one of the pedals ,
    cogs on back wear faster than those on the front.
    fietsbob: Cassette is Shimano HG70 7-spd. (in good cond and not very old). Current chain, which I replace every 6mos, is Shimano HG91.

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