Your opinion on rack legs
#1
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Your opinion on rack legs
I'm working on a bike that I'll never be able to ride (I ride a 54cm, this thing is 63cm+). What can I say; spending untold hours fixing something I'm gonna have to get rid of is my idea of fun
Anyways; I'm building lightweight front and rear racks. The intent is a randonneuring-type setup. Please look at the pictures and tell me if the rack legs would look better closer together or spread apart.
IMG_0600.jpg IMG_0599..jpg
Anyways; I'm building lightweight front and rear racks. The intent is a randonneuring-type setup. Please look at the pictures and tell me if the rack legs would look better closer together or spread apart.
IMG_0600.jpg IMG_0599..jpg
#2
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#3
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Further apart would make the rack stronger and more stable.
#4
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Do you plan on running panniers? If so you really need to take heel clearance into consideration. Nothing is more infuriating while touring than having your heel smack the front of the pannier every pedal stroke. From you photo, it doesn't look like you will have enough.
And I may a Luddite when it comes to these things, but the racks that are going to subject to shock load and vibration while carrying all your stuff is not where I would look to save weight. I want those things strong. Welded aluminum tube all the way. There should be no discernible flex when loaded. Flex will break things.
And I may a Luddite when it comes to these things, but the racks that are going to subject to shock load and vibration while carrying all your stuff is not where I would look to save weight. I want those things strong. Welded aluminum tube all the way. There should be no discernible flex when loaded. Flex will break things.
#6
Senior Member
I'm wondering why you included a spring like coil turn at the bottom of the legs. There is certainly no need for it and it just uses more material.
My concern would be the shortness of the upper and the related risk of heel strike. Also what material are you using? It does seem a touch small. The hooks and clasping lips on most panniers I've seen are made to work with tubing more in the 8 mm range. Make it smaller and it'll rattle and tend to wander around on the bars.
I love tinkering around too. And I've often been accused of "wasting" time making something that is easily available. But even I would not bother making a rack when I can buy one for less than $20.
My concern would be the shortness of the upper and the related risk of heel strike. Also what material are you using? It does seem a touch small. The hooks and clasping lips on most panniers I've seen are made to work with tubing more in the 8 mm range. Make it smaller and it'll rattle and tend to wander around on the bars.
I love tinkering around too. And I've often been accused of "wasting" time making something that is easily available. But even I would not bother making a rack when I can buy one for less than $20.
#7
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Do you plan on running panniers? If so you really need to take heel clearance into consideration. Nothing is more infuriating while touring than having your heel smack the front of the pannier every pedal stroke. From you photo, it doesn't look like you will have enough.
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If you are going to have fenders, get your fenders now and make sure your rack legs can accommodate the fenders.
#9
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It appears the OP is constructing a classic randonneur rack which is intended for light loads strapped to the top or carried in small bags on the sides. Since large panniers aren't used in such a setup, heel clearance is less of an issue than it is with loaded touring setups. Also, the racks of this design which I've seen lack the forward struts to the seatstays; rather, the rack is attached to the rear fender for additional stability as seen here:
#11
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Thread Starter
Last two post, yes and yes. The bottom loop is not a sprig but incorporated for a pannier hook. On my own rando bike I need a similar rack, mostly so I can bungee my wet weather gear to it. Basically I'm practicing with this bike before I'm ready to do it to mine
For aesthetics I'm thinking a smaller loop... I'm also looking for metal fenders to incorporate into the setup just like in those pics.
For aesthetics I'm thinking a smaller loop... I'm also looking for metal fenders to incorporate into the setup just like in those pics.
#12
Senior Member
I didn't think of the loop being for the lower hook. That makes it a little heavier than the wire V in the one in the pictures but it's a slick way regardless.
And yeah, if it's practice for a bike for later than the effort is hardly wasted on even an older bike that you won't actually ride. Learning is good.
And yeah, if it's practice for a bike for later than the effort is hardly wasted on even an older bike that you won't actually ride. Learning is good.
#13
Pwnerer
I'm working on a bike that I'll never be able to ride (I ride a 54cm, this thing is 63cm+). What can I say; spending untold hours fixing something I'm gonna have to get rid of is my idea of fun
Anyways; I'm building lightweight front and rear racks. The intent is a randonneuring-type setup. Please look at the pictures and tell me if the rack legs would look better closer together or spread apart.
Attachment 172319 Attachment 172321
Anyways; I'm building lightweight front and rear racks. The intent is a randonneuring-type setup. Please look at the pictures and tell me if the rack legs would look better closer together or spread apart.
Attachment 172319 Attachment 172321
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I think I'm going to start from scratch, mostly because I think the loop will look better smaller.
I'm also thinking that bending the rack and maybe the legs. It may play well with the heavily angular bike. If I go this way I would use a similar style on the front.
602..jpg
Comments welcome.
I'm also thinking that bending the rack and maybe the legs. It may play well with the heavily angular bike. If I go this way I would use a similar style on the front.
602..jpg
Comments welcome.
#15
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Another top anchor point for racks on bikes without seatstay braze-ons is a bracket from the top of the rack to the rear brake bridge.
With caliper brakes, the bracket shares the brake anchor bolt. For cantilevers or V-brakes, a dedicated bolt through the hole in the bridge is used.
With caliper brakes, the bracket shares the brake anchor bolt. For cantilevers or V-brakes, a dedicated bolt through the hole in the bridge is used.
#16
Banned
You will note in the pictures, [#9]the mudguard is the brace, fore and aft. the struts to the dropout, support a little weight.
Mudguards must be metal, it seems. , the racks have a bolt thru the mudguards screwing into the rack.
Front the term daruma came up. a plug in the bottom of the steerer tube supports the minirack, via the mudguard perhaps ..
and a mid fork braze on.. looks like a repaint on the frame to do it properly.. its only paint..
then a separate clip fitted to the handlebar stem supports the Bag from the top/rear.
see Berthould and Velo Orange , and vintage bike quarterly , they are supplying the stuff
for this current trend, as are several Custom builders..
the old French culture, not so bad after all ?
Mudguards must be metal, it seems. , the racks have a bolt thru the mudguards screwing into the rack.
Front the term daruma came up. a plug in the bottom of the steerer tube supports the minirack, via the mudguard perhaps ..
and a mid fork braze on.. looks like a repaint on the frame to do it properly.. its only paint..
then a separate clip fitted to the handlebar stem supports the Bag from the top/rear.
see Berthould and Velo Orange , and vintage bike quarterly , they are supplying the stuff
for this current trend, as are several Custom builders..
the old French culture, not so bad after all ?
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-05-10 at 09:31 AM.