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Old 10-04-10, 01:12 PM   #1
scruggle
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Brake cable adjusters, canti issues

The problem: My front cantilever brake has no cable adjuster. As the brake pads wear, I occasionally readjust the cable to keep the pads the same distance from the rim and to stop my levers from bottoming out. However, this means that the cable gets damaged since I am progressively clamping it further up the cable. When it comes time to replace the pads, I'll also need a new brake cable, because otherwise I will clamping at the end of the squat portion.

The specific questions: (1) Am I doing something wrong?
(2) The front cable hanger (like so: http://tinyurl.com/35brdxm) has no adjuster. What sort of adjuster should/can I use? The Jagwire site doesn't help and hardly distinguishes brake cable adjusters from shift cable adjusters. I would like something which can go on the end of the current housing and plunk into the front cable hanger instead of just buying a whole new Tektro hanger with the adjuster already in it, or having to cut the housing and put an in-line adjuster somewhere along its length. (I can do that, but would just as soon rather not).
(3) When brake cables get squat from being clamped, and then are clamped further down their length (i.e. so that the previously clamped-portion is still under tension), does that affect their performance/safety?
(4) Is there any difference between 1.5mm and 1.6mm brake cables? Both in terms of functional difference and actual difference (maybe it's just a measurement variation?)

The details: Tektro Oryx with z-link wire, bog-standard v-brake pads (will replace them with cartridge holders when the time comes, but that won't fix the problem of course), Tektro (or equivalent) front cable hanger, Jagwire housing (no fancy/weird Nokon stuff), Tiagra STI.

Minor indulgence: Is the problem clear? I try to lay out my questions on BF as clearly as possible since I read so many OPs which are a mess.

Last edited by scruggle; 10-04-10 at 01:53 PM. Reason: clarity in question #3
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Old 10-04-10, 01:42 PM   #2
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why not just replace the front cable hanger with the one you show in your question ? most hanger do have some kind of adjuster in them. can you show a photo of your and we can better answer your question. no you doing nothing wrong. it does not affect their performance.

Last edited by bikeman715; 10-04-10 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 10-04-10, 01:52 PM   #3
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why not just replace the front cable hanger with the one you show in your question ?
Because a cable adjuster costs like $2 bucks and the front hanger+adjuster costs $12, it's easier to install, and is less wasteful.

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most hanger do have some kind of adjuster in them. can you show a photo of your [situation] and we can better answer your question.
It's the hanger I linked to, without an adjusting barrel. That's it. The simpler question is 'what kind of adjusting barrel should I get?' A link to an on-line store or Jagwire's site will do. Thanks.
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Old 10-04-10, 01:57 PM   #4
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I do my cantilever brake adjustment with the 4th hand tool, use the crossover cable adjustment or the main one .. I adjust the cables, by directly adjusting the cables .

there have been a clever screw adjustment on the barrel end of the crossover cable .
Pro CX mechanics made that mod on Spooky and Empella Brakes, with the big aluminum ends
now you can buy them for those type brakes , High profile type..
TRP has copied that design ..


http://cyclocrossworld.stores.yahoo.net/brakeparts.html
http://cyclocrossworld.stores.yahoo....eucycabrn.html

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Old 10-04-10, 02:28 PM   #5
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Isn't there a barrel adjuster where the cable enters the lever?
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Old 10-04-10, 03:07 PM   #6
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Isn't there a barrel adjuster where the cable enters the lever?
Unless I misunderstand, that's for the shift cable.
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Old 10-04-10, 03:47 PM   #7
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there should be one on the lever. can your hanger use a adjuster ? if not then replace it with one that does.
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Old 10-04-10, 04:12 PM   #8
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Isn't there a barrel adjuster where the cable enters the lever?
Not with brifters.
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Old 10-04-10, 04:21 PM   #9
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there should be one on the lever. can your hanger use a adjuster ? if not then replace it with one that does.
for linear pull levers, yes, but for cantilever levers, which are just road aero levers, no.

buy some inline cable adjusters.
they're like $10/pair from a bike shop.
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Old 10-04-10, 05:02 PM   #10
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for linear pull levers, yes, but for cantilever levers, which are just road aero levers, no.

buy some inline cable adjusters.
they're like $10/pair from a bike shop.
Or, better yet, ask the bike shop for an adjuster barrel, most will just give it to you. Then buy a new cable, and both the lack of adjustment and the damaged cable are solved in one $5 go.
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Old 10-04-10, 05:11 PM   #11
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Or, better yet, ask the bike shop for an adjuster barrel, most will just give it to you. Then buy a new cable, and both the lack of adjustment and the damaged cable are solved in one $5 go.
the one problem with that...

there's only one place where you can use it, and that's right at the cable hanger on the steerer tube.
That place can get very cramped as it is on a CX bike, and using a barrel adjuster on it will yield a severely kinked cable.

best solution is to use an inline adjuster, since you can use it on a relatively straight portion of the cable.

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Old 10-04-10, 05:23 PM   #12
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Motor cycle parts, throttle cables exit the throttle grip with a 90 degree noodle which has a barrel adjuster on it.
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Old 10-04-10, 11:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
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the one problem with that...

there's only one place where you can use it, and that's right at the cable hanger on the steerer tube.
That place can get very cramped as it is on a CX bike, and using a barrel adjuster on it will yield a severely kinked cable.

best solution is to use an inline adjuster, since you can use it on a relatively straight portion of the cable.

That is true, but it depends on the size of the bike. On smaller frames it can be an issue; I often forget that since my bikes are all in the 61 cm range. If the area is so cramped that you need a noodle to direct the cable, as in the photo that you need a noodle, than a barrel adjuster isn't going to work. Then again, a noodle with a built in adjuster might. If you have more wiggle room, than the barrel adjuster is the easiest solution.
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Old 10-05-10, 10:08 AM   #14
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NB:, there is the drilling the stem, perhaps, threading the top hole, adding a locknut around the barrel adjuster,
then running the cable up and over the stem..

Cable line was a straight curve when the cables came up out of the top of the brake lever.

there is also the housing stop that bolts to the fork crown.
and deeper drop hangers , as this has not been a problem that you discovered first.
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Old 10-05-10, 04:13 PM   #15
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Thanks for the advice, I'll pick up an inline adjuster and see what I can do.
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Old 10-05-10, 06:51 PM   #16
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Note: you can route the cable over the stem, to increase the tight bend
that would result from running it as shown in AEO's picture.
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