1983 Pinarello Treviso ,2008 Specialized Tarmac, 1984 Ciocc, De Rosa 1982, Fuji Absolute 2.0 touring bike
Putting on a new set of pedals
I received my new set of Ultegra PD-6700 pedals today so I figured I would just remove my 6
month old set of rusted PD-MB20 pedals, install the new ones and go biking....NOT!
I have had bikes for a long time and have changed lots of pedals but to get these recently installed MB's out I ended up using an Oxyacetylene torch and a 1/2" impact driver chucked up to 100psi of air pressure. I realize I ride along A1A and am subject to salt air but this was way over the top as far as I'm concerned.
The pedals were installed by my LBS. They wouldn't have tightened them that much, I don't think they even have the tools to do that. I was wondering if they installed them dry.
I installed my new set using a product we use in the marine industry called Tef-Gel, sort of an anti-seize on steroids for aluminium in salt air.
You haven't lived until you realize you are about to heat up a 6 month old FSA crankset on a new carbon bike. But there was no other way.
Yikes dude! I would be very careful riding on those cranks now. I've seen some of the nastiest pics out there of riders cranks breaking. Usually they were the old style forged cranks, but since you took a torch to your cranks, who knows how much you might have weakened it?
1989 Krapf (with Dura-ace) road bike, 1973 Sputnik (made by XB3) road bike , 1961 Peugeot fixed gear, 2010 Trek 4400
The real problem is steel threads matching aluminum threads. Steel and aluminum reacts and sort of weld together in time.
I just had to cut a valve stem with some pliers off a car wheel because the fancy aluminum cap was stuck (and had 10mm hex cap that of course I tried to remove with a hex key with no luck, I just mashed the hex head)
Similar I had to torch out a centering ring on the car hub (used for fitting an aftermarket rim with larger inner hole)
To prevent such things use antiseize grease, but most important try to match materials, steel with steel and aluminum with aluminum, if not possible at least try to find chrome plated steel (on the threads too) - that shiny steel. It locks a bit less than regular steel.
Anyway it's prone to stuck aluminum with steel - like a BB in an aluminum frame, a steel headset in aluminum frame, fixed gear cogs on aluminum hubs, freewheels on aluminum hubs, steel seatpost in aluminum frame, etc.- thousands of this stuck cases.
1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
You could have also tried to freeze the pedal spindle to break their threads away from the crank through thermal shrinking. Less likely to damage the crank that way. Worked nicely for me when I took off a super stuck stem and BB from my frame and fork last year.