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  1. #1
    Pro Paper Plane Pilot wunderkind's Avatar
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    Changing cables on road handlebars

    Is there a creative way to change brake cables without removal of the bar tape? I think the brake cable is tucked inside the bar tape. I guess i can carefully insert the cable wire through the sleeves. Hmm... neat to think this through. Really want to avoid removing bar tape as it is new!
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    Cable, or housing? You should be able to replace the cable easily, especially if you silver solder the end before trying to push it through.

  3. #3
    AEO
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    Put it this way. It's a good time to learn how to wrap bar tape.

    some levers make it impossible to route a cable through the lever to the housing due to the bends in the design.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

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    Pro Paper Plane Pilot wunderkind's Avatar
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    But the bar tape is brand new!!!! I don't want to remove it if possible.
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  5. #5
    Mechanic/Tourist
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    As previously posted, if you have a smooth soldered end to the cable so that it does not catch you should be able to push it through the housing, esp if the cable is high quality stainless steel. There is of course no way to replace housing w/out removing the bar tape.

  6. #6
    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    You can re-wrap bar tape.

  7. #7
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    If you mean the housings, you could install double ferrules where the housings exit the tape...

    Quote Originally Posted by AEO View Post
    some levers make it impossible to route a cable through the lever to the housing due to the bends in the design.
    I've never come across any like that, and if I did, I'd piff em for a design that isn't so damn retard3d.


    Speaking of retard3d, retard3d is not an expletive, it's a quite proper word used for much more than indicating the developmental shortcomings of others, and censoring it is not only condescending and inconvenient, it's... take a guess.

    A ridiculously long censored word list is no sort of replacement for proper moderation.
    Last edited by Kimmo; 10-07-10 at 02:36 AM.

  8. #8
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    dp

  9. #9
    Let your bike be the tool cranky old road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    Speaking of retard3d, retard3d is not an expletive, it's a quite proper word used for much more than indicating the developmental shortcomings of others, and censoring it is not only condescending and inconvenient, it's... take a guess..
    But using the word for someone who does not actually have a diagnosable mental deficiency IS offensive to those who actually have the condition or have loved ones with the condition. But by all means feel free to be offensive.
    Never try to teach a pig to sing...

  10. #10
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    Back to our regularly scheduled programming. Like Kimmo, I've never come across an aero brake lever or brifter that didn't have a reasonably straight path to the housing stop from the cable anchor so threading a new cable without removing the housing is pretty straight forward. You do want the end of the wire to be smooth and free from loose strands and soldering is the best way to be sure.

  11. #11
    Pro Paper Plane Pilot wunderkind's Avatar
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    OK.... I looked at the Shimano tech doc. Here's what I plan to do.

    Removal of Cable
    1. Unclamp the brake cable bolt so that the cable is free.
    2. Loosen barrel adjuster to allow cable to move freely
    3. Tilt the brifter forward
    4. Use a needle-nose plier and take the cable out.


    Installing new cable
    • Insert new cable via the tilted brifter head.
    • Keep inserting it that it will enter the housing?
    • If all goes well, it will reach the brake bolt
    • Home free!


    Think this will work and avoid from having the remove the bar tape?
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  12. #12
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    an additional bene sugg : file a little bit of point on the end of the cable, chamfer..
    easy to do if its soldered.
    that will go around bends, etc., easier than the square cut end.

  13. #13
    Senior Member dstrong's Avatar
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    I've replaced brake cables w/o removing the housing. You shouldn't need to use needle-nose pliers to remove the cable...just pushing the cable from the brake side where it enters the housing will push the plug-end out the front of the brake handle.

    No need to loosen the barrel adjuster as once you release the fixing bolt, the cable will be loose.

    For installation, angle of attack is critical...don't force it...use a flashlight. If you're unable to solder/file the end, I find slowly turning the cable in the opposite direction of the twist (so I think that would be counter-clockwise) helps the cable not to unravel.

    Use a rubber band to band the brake handle to the bars to hold it open so you have both hands free (flashlight in your mouth, of course).

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  14. #14
    Pro Paper Plane Pilot wunderkind's Avatar
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    ^ excellent tips!!! thanks!
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  15. #15
    17yrold in 64yrold body
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    With brifters, the easiest way I have found to replace brake cables (not housings), is to unscrew the nut holding the brifter in place on the bar, insert the cable through the brifter, into the housing, and push it in until it can be pulled out the other end of the housing, then remount the brifter. Has saved me from re-wrapping tape.

    This is after having pulled back the hood covering the lower part of the brifter.

  16. #16
    Senior Member dstrong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badamsjr View Post
    With brifters, the easiest way I have found to replace brake cables (not housings), is to unscrew the nut holding the brifter in place on the bar, insert the cable through the brifter, into the housing, and push it in until it can be pulled out the other end of the housing, then remount the brifter. Has saved me from re-wrapping tape.

    This is after having pulled back the hood covering the lower part of the brifter.
    You take the shifter completely off the handlebar? Seems like an unnecessary step.

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  17. #17
    Gear Combo Guru Chris_W's Avatar
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    I normally try pushing the new cable through with the brifter attached first. This normally doesn't work, so I then remove the brifter and thread the cable through that first, then through the housing, then reattach the brifter.

  18. #18
    AEO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    If you mean the housings, you could install double ferrules where the housings exit the tape...



    I've never come across any like that, and if I did, I'd piff em for a design that isn't so damn retard3d.


    Speaking of retard3d, retard3d is not an expletive, it's a quite proper word used for much more than indicating the developmental shortcomings of others, and censoring it is not only condescending and inconvenient, it's... take a guess.

    A ridiculously long censored word list is no sort of replacement for proper moderation.
    it's pretty standard for campy ergo levers, I find.
    shimano STI levers fair a bit better.

    Quote Originally Posted by rydaddy View Post
    You can re-wrap bar tape.
    yeah, I've never seen bar tape that was one shot only. Even the ones that tear easily, like cinelli cork, won't tear if you're careful when unwrapping it. There's also no need to unwrap beyond the lever and the tape will have some bends in it from conforming to the bars and cables, which makes it rather easy to rewrap it.
    Last edited by AEO; 10-08-10 at 01:37 AM.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  19. #19
    17yrold in 64yrold body
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_W View Post
    I normally try pushing the new cable through with the brifter attached first. This normally doesn't work, so I then remove the brifter and thread the cable through that first, then through the housing, then reattach the brifter.
    Same here. Have not had any luck getting the cable to go through the brifter into the housing. It does not take much effort or time to take it loose, thread the cable, then reattach it.

  20. #20
    Senior Member
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    If you really want to have 'fun', try replacing the cables on bar end shifters after the fact................

  21. #21
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    If the cable housing is properly seated in the ferrule and the ferrule is seated in the lever you should be able to get the cable to insert into the housing. Use a small flash light (penlight) and tie the levers down to get a good view of the ferrule within the lever you should be able to feed the cable. If it doesn't go in easily insert the cable through the lever cable stop and using the flash light feed the end of the cable into the housing (takes some patience). when you are successful carefully pull the cable through and take care not to crimp the cable when pulling the cable past the lever cable end stop. Good luck.

  22. #22
    Pro Paper Plane Pilot wunderkind's Avatar
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    Done it this evening. It was actually easier than expected.
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  23. #23
    Member krater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amillerinmaine View Post
    If you really want to have 'fun', try replacing the cables on bar end shifters after the fact................
    That's exactly what I was looking to do. What's the secret?

  24. #24
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention twirling the cable... it helps no end.

    Haven't worked on later Ergolevers, but the original ones were okay; I never had to remove them to replace cables.

    Quote Originally Posted by cranky old road View Post
    But using the word for someone who does not actually have a diagnosable mental deficiency IS offensive to those who actually have the condition or have loved ones with the condition. But by all means feel free to be offensive.
    If a person designs a stupid component, I see no problem with diagnosing them, and their design as retard3d.

    Unlike a condition such as Down's Syndrome, which has a very specific meaning, retard3d is a very broad term that merely implies some sort of developmental deficiency and as such can be correctly thrown at almost anyone given the right context. Perhaps there's a highly specific medical meaning for the term, but the general sense predates the medical context.

    I'd suggest that some folks need to develop a thicker skin, lest the entire notion of political correctness is discredited entirely.

    Oh wait, that happened already...

  25. #25
    Let your bike be the tool cranky old road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    If a person designs a stupid component, I see no problem with diagnosing them, and their design as retard3d.

    Unlike a condition such as Down's Syndrome, which has a very specific meaning, retard3d is a very broad term that merely implies some sort of developmental deficiency and as such can be correctly thrown at almost anyone given the right context. Perhaps there's a highly specific medical meaning for the term, but the general sense predates the medical context.
    I challenge your assumptions about the term's etymology as you use it. As I stated earlier feel free to be offensive to individuals who have had the term applied to them medically and find its pejorative use quite hurtful, as well as to their families.
    Never try to teach a pig to sing...

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