Bruzer

Well arn't you special that you don't need the tool? Obviously this kind of thing is useful for some people, myself included.

A mechanic pointed me to a version of this tool using a spring from a u-brake (from a cheap department store bike). Other people have pointed out that a bent coat hanger and possibly a big paper clip could work in a pinch.

MitchL

That's really cool. I have a rusted steel wheel I need to get rid of so I am going to do that with one of the spokes. I know its the same as a coat hanger but I like the idea of using bike parts to make bike tools. Very bikie

HillRider

Only works on older chains where you can reuse the original pin. For new chains you need to completely remove the original pin and replace it with a specific joining pin or a master link. You can't do either if the original pin is in the way.

Note to ecoracer: the "tool" isn't useless. As I also wrote, it lets you check that the chain is properly routed before joining the ends.

vredstein

Along the same lines, it's handy when you're building up a single speed, fixed, or IGH bike and you want to dial in the chainline.

achoo

Get a 4-5" piece of coat hanger, bend about 1/2" at each end into a hook.

Hook the chain at each end of the bent wire, about 3-4 links from the ends.

Join the chain however you want. It'll be REALLY easy.

HillRider

That's exactly the "tool" a couple of us have described. The reason for the shallow U-bend is to keep the wire away from the chain when you join the ends and leave you room for the chain tool or to join the halves of the master link. And, yes, it does make joining the chain easy.

EcoRacer

If you take the chain off the front chainring when joining it, than it isn't a problem whatsoever. Why do you need to leave the chain on the chainring when joining it? it only makes it more difficult than it needs to be. I've never seen any of the Mechanics in my area use a tool like that, myself included.

vredstein

It's only harder than it has to be if you don't use the tool. Using the tool frees up your hands and holds the parts in place. It's the exact same reason people use bike stands, clamps, and vices. The chain compressor keeps the chain in place, while your hands are free to get the chain tool, connector links, or spare pin. Some people size their chain with it routed through the pulleys. The compressor allows them to set it up so the pulley wheels are lined up vertically. Without the compressor, you're using your hands to hold the chain, hold tension on the chain, and connect the ends. If your chain is already routed, and you find you have to add or subtract links, you can skip the step of handling the chain, removing it off the rings, holding it in place, and replacing it on the rings. Makes an even bigger difference if you're handling a dirty chain, or fiddling with connector links that are settled into place.

peripatetic

Or drycleaner. Another +1 on the coat hanger/spoke V chain slack-maker tool.

badamsjr

+10 My experience exactly. I change stuff around a lot, so am doing a lot of 'rechaining', and would NOT be without my Park tool.

DMF 

+1

Even with enough slack that you're not on the derailleur spring, juggling both ends, a pin, and tool can be frustrating. This tool supplies two of the four required hands.