Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    14
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    New threaded headset on an old Trek MTB

    Good people of Bike Forum,

    I have a 1993 (?) Trek 820 "Antelope." It has a threaded headset. Recently it began to develop "indexed steering." I'm endeavoring to replace the headset, both to fix the problem and for my own education. But this whole process is making me feel like the Mr. Bean of bike mechanics.

    1) I got a brand new Tange-Seiki 1" threaded headset with a 26.4mm fork crown race diameter. Try as I might, I could not get the crown race onto the fork. It would slide down to the larger-diameter "area of resistance" beyond which it refused to budge despite vigorous hammering with a fork crown race setter. Giving up,

    2) I put this headset back in the box and got an identical headset with a 27mm fork crown race diameter. This was still tough to get on, but I did it. However;

    3) With both headsets, I have three problems:

    3a) The fork's steerer tube is taller than the stack height of the headsets. Screwing on the lock nut all the way causes the its built-in plastic "seal" to get pushed out by the steerer tube, and leaves the top of the steerer tube exposed.

    3b) Although the bearing cups look like they're the same size as the old ones, when the headset is fully assembled, the bearings in the lower cup are not completely concealed by the cup. This could be OK, but it smells funny.

    3c) More serious than the above, I have major "play" in the headset. By that I mean when I engage the front brake and push the bike forward/backward, there is a major, major wobble. The bike is unrideable. It doesn't matter how hard I tighten the headset. Even if I tighten it to the point that the handlebar will barely even turn, I can't reduce the play.

    To sum up: 3a leads me to believe I need a different headset with a larger stack height. 3c leads me to believe I'm using the wrong "size" headset. Is it possible that I'm trying to install the wrong kind of headset? I guess I just assumed that the bike requires a 1" because it's the most common, and I thought that a 1" threaded headset is a 1" threaded headset.

    I still have headset #2 installed. I'm going to dig #1 out of the box and compare each piece to the original. But I need to do a little bit of this first:

  2. #2
    Senior Member vredstein's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    My Bikes
    '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '98 Fuji Touring w/ Shimano Nexus premium, '06 Jamis Nova 853 cross frame set up as commuter, '03 Fuji Roubaix Pro 853 back up training bike
    Posts
    701
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ignoring the lock nut, are you able to turn the upper race onto the fork past the point of no play to the point where it actually starts binding up?
    Quote Originally Posted by gopheralex View Post
    Good people of Bike Forum,

    I have a 1993 (?) Trek 820 "Antelope." It has a threaded headset. Recently it began to develop "indexed steering." I'm endeavoring to replace the headset, both to fix the problem and for my own education. But this whole process is making me feel like the Mr. Bean of bike mechanics.

    1) I got a brand new Tange-Seiki 1" threaded headset with a 26.4mm fork crown race diameter. Try as I might, I could not get the crown race onto the fork. It would slide down to the larger-diameter "area of resistance" beyond which it refused to budge despite vigorous hammering with a fork crown race setter. Giving up,

    2) I put this headset back in the box and got an identical headset with a 27mm fork crown race diameter. This was still tough to get on, but I did it. However;

    3) With both headsets, I have three problems:

    3a) The fork's steerer tube is taller than the stack height of the headsets. Screwing on the lock nut all the way causes the its built-in plastic "seal" to get pushed out by the steerer tube, and leaves the top of the steerer tube exposed.

    3b) Although the bearing cups look like they're the same size as the old ones, when the headset is fully assembled, the bearings in the lower cup are not completely concealed by the cup. This could be OK, but it smells funny.

    3c) More serious than the above, I have major "play" in the headset. By that I mean when I engage the front brake and push the bike forward/backward, there is a major, major wobble. The bike is unrideable. It doesn't matter how hard I tighten the headset. Even if I tighten it to the point that the handlebar will barely even turn, I can't reduce the play.

    To sum up: 3a leads me to believe I need a different headset with a larger stack height. 3c leads me to believe I'm using the wrong "size" headset. Is it possible that I'm trying to install the wrong kind of headset? I guess I just assumed that the bike requires a 1" because it's the most common, and I thought that a 1" threaded headset is a 1" threaded headset.

    I still have headset #2 installed. I'm going to dig #1 out of the box and compare each piece to the original. But I need to do a little bit of this first:
    "See, it's not that getting wet is a big deal. Really, it's what you're getting wet with.
    Fenders....because it's probably urine."
    Bike Snob NYC

  3. #3
    I bike in the nude BikeMech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Mobile,Alabama
    My Bikes
    Custom. '02 trek 1000 with ultegra and dura ace components. Too much to list... Just ask me
    Posts
    243
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For issue 3c,are you positive you have the bearings facing the correct way?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    4,213
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by gopheralex View Post
    ... I thought that a 1" threaded headset is a 1" threaded headset.
    No. There's 1" JIS (japan industry standard) and another one. Sheldon Brown has more to say:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#jis

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    14
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by vredstein View Post
    Ignoring the lock nut, are you able to turn the upper race onto the fork past the point of no play to the point where it actually starts binding up?
    Nope, I can't get past the point of no play. It binds up way before that.

  6. #6
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Vancouver, USA
    My Bikes
    My War
    Posts
    20,418
    Mentioned
    50 Post(s)
    Tagged
    7 Thread(s)
    I have a feeling BikeMech's barking up the correct tree vis a vis problem 3c.

    For problem 3a, I'd try getting one or two thin spacers so that the steerer tube doesn't push out the plastic ring in the top nut, might even need a 5mm spacer. Check with the LBS. Hopefully you didn't chew up the threads by putting the top nut on too far.
    http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=11171
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    14
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    BikeMech, you nailed it. I was following the instructions to the letter. Unfortunately... the damn instructions were wrong!

    Here is the CORRECT diagram for anyone else in this situation:

    headset..jpeg

    After flipping the bearings over, all is well.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •