Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,893
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    removing dropout set screws..?

    i just picked up an old frame with campy semi-horizontal dropouts. they have some set screws, that i'd like to retain, but i gotta have the frame refinished. how do i go about this? i'd fiddle with them, but i don't want to hurt them. also, what's the best way to mask them off for the powdercoater? i'll probably ask the guys at the metal finisher, but i wanna be armed with suggestions, in case he's stumped...



    thanks
    -rob

  2. #2
    AEO
    AEO is offline
    Senior Member AEO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
    My Bikes
    Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
    Posts
    12,245
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    they're just nuts with bolts.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  3. #3
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,893
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by AEO View Post
    they're just nuts with bolts.
    word? so i can simply grab the knurled nut hard, and back it out with a tiny flathead?

    -rob

  4. #4
    Senior Member cyclist2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Up
    My Bikes
    Masi (retired), Giant TCR, Eisentraut, Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo (trainer bike), Cannondale, Stumpjumper, Waterford(N+1), Tern D8 (N+1)
    Posts
    2,803
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The knobs on the outside of the frame are caps. Hold the screw from the axle side of the dropout, then unscrew the from the axle side to remove.
    I don't do vintage, I bought them new, rode them, kept them. Now they are just old bikes
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/sets/72157623483647522/

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    40,172
    Mentioned
    28 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    cap on the back is a nut, it unscrews and then you unscrew the bolt forward with a screwdriver..

    or it's rusted in place, then you just break off both ends and call it done.

  6. #6
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,893
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    it moves fine; i'll have em off in a minute. How should i mask the threads for the metAl finishers, do y'all reckon?

    -rob

  7. #7
    Used to be Conspiratemus
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hamilton ON Canada
    Posts
    773
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Definitely remove them before painting the frame.

    Screw off the little knurled nut at the end of the screw that's sticking out the back of the dropout. If it's been on there a long time it might need some penetrating oil and a torch. You'll need a long thin screwdriver to keep the screw from turning as you torque the nut, since the way you adjust them in the first place is by turning that nut with your fingers. Careful use of pliers, trying not to mar the knurlings, is OK if finger torque working against the screwdriver won't break it loose. Then use the same screwdriver to unscrew the screw, backing it out through the dropout. They don't look bent or particularly rusty so they should come out OK. If they are seized in place and heat and oil won't let the screwdriver turn them you are SOL.

    Make sure your painter keeps the paint out of those tiny deep holes with their fine threads.
    Grease them well when you put them back in and tighten the nuts only finger tight, just tight enough so that when you turn the nut counterclockwise, the screw turns but the nut stays on. Try not to let them get bent from banging stuff into the protruding ends.

    If you are using modern derailleurs with B-tensioning screws you usually don't need these screws at all but they do make a classic bike look more complete. (If you are using a period-correct derailleur like a Campy NR or SR, you definitely do need the screws to find the optimal "set" to keep the jockey pulley from rattling against the biggest cog.)
    Last edited by conspiratemus1; 11-10-10 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Laughing because 5 responses, including 2 from the OP, came while I was making mine!
    "I did not know that!" -- J. Carson

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Talk to your powder coater. The guy I used had a series of gadgets/plugs to fill holes and he made sure there was no coating in the shifter mounts and bottle cage thread holes. Same for the set-screw holes. A good powder coater knows not to let powder get where it isn't supposed to go. Also, talk to him about the cable guides on the top tube. If the powder goes on too thick the cable may not slide right through.

    Good luck with that nishiki ultimate frame. I was looking at it on CL and thought it was a neat frame.

    Mike

  9. #9
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,893
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    they're out; no issues. i'm figuring i can do my best to mask it/make it clear that i don't want powder in there, but i can get all que sera sera if the threads get buggered and i end up not using them again. i'm rocking a b-screw equipped rd...

    i'm psyched. just gotta remove the headset, pick out the right color, and i'm off...

    -rob

  10. #10
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,893
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyb1 View Post
    Talk to your powder coater. The guy I used had a series of gadgets/plugs to fill holes and he made sure there was no coating in the shifter mounts and bottle cage thread holes. Same for the set-screw holes. A good powder coater knows not to let powder get where it isn't supposed to go. Also, talk to him about the cable guides on the top tube. If the powder goes on too thick the cable may not slide right through.

    Good luck with that nishiki ultimate frame. I was looking at it on CL and thought it was a neat frame.

    Mike
    Thanks. =D

    The frame is very nice. the finish, not so much. the headset is really pimp; it's just a levin, but it's got "tange-seiki levin japan" stamped on it, and the newer ones i've got don't. it is also in, like, perfect condition. Rolls smooth, too. i'm fairly stoked. Dude selling it posts on BF sometimes; really nice guy.

    -rob

  11. #11
    Hi, folks sdold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    152
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by conspiratemus1 View Post
    If you are using modern derailleurs with B-tensioning screws you usually don't need these screws at all but they do make a classic bike look more complete. (If you are using a period-correct derailleur like a Campy NR or SR, you definitely do need the screws to find the optimal "set" to keep the jockey pulley from rattling against the biggest cog.)
    Aren't these screws for aligning the axle?
    -----
    "Some people canít tandem. It doesnít make them bad people, just not quite as fortunate"
    --Rick Jorgensen, davistandems.com

  12. #12
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,893
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    oh, and thanks, everyone, for advice re: prep for powder and prep for reinstallation.

    much appreciated
    -rob

  13. #13
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    40,172
    Mentioned
    28 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You need to tap chase them back out to clean the threads up when the frame comes back

    size M3 x 0.5 tp mm

  14. #14
    Used to be Conspiratemus
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hamilton ON Canada
    Posts
    773
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by sdold View Post
    Aren't these screws for aligning the axle?
    Well, yes. You find the right fore-and-aft position for the right-side screw that lets the derailler ride properly, then you use the left-side screw to align the axle so the wheel is centred. But if you left the screws out you could just pull the axle all the way back into both dropouts and that should also centre the wheel, just as if you had modern vertical dropouts. I suppose the screws do allow some tolerance for error in brazing the dropouts exactly opposite each other....
    "I did not know that!" -- J. Carson

  15. #15
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Boulder, Colorado
    My Bikes
    Cinelli Supercoursa 69, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Mondonico Diamond Extra 05, Coors Light Greg Lemond (built by Scapin) 88, Scapin MTB, Stumpjumper 83, Specialized Stumpjumper M4, Lemond Poprad 2001
    Posts
    1,366
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    you should use a small standsrd screwdriver to insert into the slot on the axel side of the adjustment screw. Twist off the cap on the back side then back the screw out from the inside using the flathead screw driver. Don't force it. Use a bit of penetrating oil and let it sit over night. I removed a pair from a 40 year old frame with just a little coaxing. Good luck. Oh, replacements are available from old school bike shops.

  16. #16
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,893
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Deanster04 View Post
    you should use a small standsrd screwdriver to insert into the slot on the axel side of the adjustment screw. Twist off the cap on the back side then back the screw out from the inside using the flathead screw driver. Don't force it. Use a bit of penetrating oil and let it sit over night. I removed a pair from a 40 year old frame with just a little coaxing. Good luck. Oh, replacements are available from old school bike shops.
    Haha, thanks, but they're out! No issues, and the screws look fine; they're being held in a little baggies until reassembly time.

    Thank you, everyone, for your help on this little "project" =D
    -rob

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •